rob answers:

Since she’ll be taking photos outdoors she might be needing a polarizing filter which cost under $100. A neutral density filter set will cost less than a $100. UV and Skylight filters cost less than a $100.

You can combine a linear and circular polarizing filter to create a variable neutral density filter but it might go beyond your budget.

rob answers:

If you’ve already decided on the D40, then there’s really no reason to have second thoughts for the D40X — the D40 is a fine camera. What you said is basically correct but the D40X also features a slightly faster drive mode (3fps vs 2.5fps unlimited jpg) and ISO sensitivity starts at 100 instead of 200.

A plus for the D40 is it’s faster flash sync (1/500 sec.) which is usually a feature reserved for higher end dSLRs. There are rumors of a “D60″ (D40X successor) that should debut next week at CES on the 7th. Whether you should wait or not is up to you — the D40 is still an excellent choice.

In my opinion, go no-VR and spend the extra cash on a nice flash and a sturdy tripod. It’ll be like VR in the olden days. VR shouldn’t be seen as a tripod substitute.

Not all eBay sellers sell gray market goods. Cameta Cameras, for example has an excellent reputation. Just don’t buy from questionable or shady Brooklyn sellers.

More (correction):
Nikon has already ceased production of the D40X, this is not a rumor (D40 production was shut down not long after the D40X was made available). It is very likely that D40X prices will fall with the announcement of a new model which should retail at the same MSRP as the D40 and D40X when they were released. Chances of a price increase are very slim, usually when there is a relatively steady demand that exceeds stock but this usually happens years later, if at all. I wouldn’t expect a big drop for the D40 though, it looks as if it’s as low as it’s going to get (USD prices). It’s already pretty inexpensive.

Hmm… Canada? I wouldn’t know.

rob answers:

Rent another body, either a D700 or the D300. That way you can use higher ISO. On the D80, 800 speed is pushing the quality envelope plenty. On the D300, 1600 is do-able, even faster if that’s required to get the shot. The 18-200 just duplicates what you have already. I would opt for faster glass, say the lowly 50mm f/1.8, especially if you can get somewhat close during the ceremony. If you can’t, rent the Nikon 70 – 200 f/2.8. Use it on one body and your 18-55 on the other. The 24-70 would be fine on a full frame sensor, but is not wide enough on a D80.

Here is a link for first time wedding shooters:

http://www.rokkorfiles.com/Wedding101-page1.html

Rent a flash The camera’s built-in popup will not have enough power and produce horrendous red-eye.. Bounce it if the ceilings are low and you have time to practice. You can rubberband an index card to the top to use as a bounce card, or look into getting a diffuser. Diffusers need a bit of practice to use to good advantage. The Stofen is probably the easiest to get good results for a flash beginner. The good news is Nikon has a very good automatic flash system. Outside at night, you may have to use the flash direct on. Therre are multiple flash techniques for using in dark situations, but take time to learn. IMO, a week is not enough time. Here is another site for you to visit:

http://www.planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/

Pay special attention to the section on dragging the shutter. That will help you avoid the “deer in headlights” look that plagues P&S snappers.

So far as setting up lights and backdrops, unless you are *very* comfortable using them, I would stick with on camera or off camera flashes.

Have spare batteries for everything. Make sure you start the event charged. Have more memory than you think you need. Shoot in RAW, unless you have never worked with RAW images. In that case, unless you have someone who can process the RAW files, I suggest shooting in fine large jpeg or RAW plus jpeg.

Visit the venue in advance and take some test shots, note what settings you use. Do the rehearsal if you can. Ask questions about the events planned during the ceremony. Ask the officiant where you may shoot from, and when flash is acceptable. Even if you are allowed up front during the *vows* (not vowels), restricting your movements and use of flash is respectful of the solemness of the ceremony and considerate to the other guests. I usually shoot the processional (down the *aisle*) from the front, with flash. After the hand-off, I usually shoot the ceremony from the back on a tripod with no flash. If I have a second shooter, I stay near the front depending on where I’m allowed to be, and my assistant goes to the back. Make sure you are in a position to get the first kiss. When in doubt of what angle to shoot from, bias any decision toward the bride. It’s her day!

Good luck. I know you will hear from someone “Just don’t do it!” and really that’s good advice. I do think you should control your friend’s expectations. Make sure your friendship can stand the stress if she is not happy with your photography. Honestly, your images are unlikely to be awe inspiring, not when compared to work from experienced wedding photographers, and you need to tell her that up front. As a novice, you just don’t have the skill set to do a professional job. But hopefully you will be able to provide at least decent, well exposed and in focus pictures for her to remember her day. Hope it all goes well and everyone is pleased!

*Edit*

I just realized the wedding is in her home and not a church. OK, most homes you can bounce flash. Rent a SB600, SB800 or SB900 (or buy one if you can, it will be useful for other situations) You won’t need the 70-200 f/2.8 that I recommended earlier in a home (unless she lives in the Biltmore Estate!) I still would rent the D300, though. Depending on the ambient light you might use it with no flash, or limited flash. Try to get some portrait shots outside in late afternoon light. Again, best wishes!

rob answers:

Canon XSi is a good camera,however check warranty if you want to buy them from ebay.Persoanlly I would choose it from amazon,higher cost but more reliable.

rob answers:

I have an octagonal softbox for my key light. My fill light is a white umbrella, not a shoot through. I use a snoot and honeycomb on my hair light and I have a couple of background strobes that are just simple bulb slaves that I got on ebay for very little. They work well for background lights though. The shoot thru umbrella will act similar to a softbox though. I have a couple and I take them when I travel. I hate breaking the softbox down and it takes up a lot of room so I don’t always take it.

I’m generally taking portrait pictures at f/10-f/13, shutter between 1/125 and 1/200. I’m not always in sync at faster shutter speeds. I have taken a few at 1/250, but not reliable enough. ISO is always at 100. Try to get everything working on the black background first as you don’t need the backdrop lights. I use the cheap wireless trigger from ebay for my key light and everything slaves off that. I’ve had good results though, so I can’t complain. It’s so much better than being tied to a light. If you’re having trouble with stray light, move the umbrella closer to the source especially for the shoot thru. It takes a little bit of trial and error to see what the optimum settings are for your particular setup. The shutter speed has little flexibility, but you can adjust the aperture to get the right exposure.

Any other questions, my door is open. Good Luck.

rob answers:

If your main problem is underexposure, open up by 1/3 or 1/2 of a stop. Adding more light won’t help unless you learn how to make proper exposures. That SB600 should be enough light with some sort of bounce card.

rob answers:

You should have at least one umbrella or softbox to use, with a strobe. It will give you better control of your lighting, diffusing it and taking some glare away.

If you dont want something the size of full studio equipment, go here: strobist.blogspot.com, and look thru the site. It is about modifying light from flashes to work for different situations. Generally cheaper and easier to use in a home studio.

rob answers:

I like the fact that you are thinking this way. Off camera flash through an umbrella is much much better than using your on camera flash alone.

First, I don’t think you can use your built in flash with this. The trigger needs to fit in the hot shoe, and I believe (though I’m not 100% sure) that the hot shoe is disabled when the flash is popped up.

Second, you might want to verify whether that trigger will work with the Sunpak 333. Some wireless receivers have hot shoes, some use a PC connection. It looks like the specific trigger/receiver you linked to only has a PC connection so you need to be sure the Sunpak can accept it.

If you get into this, you can buy another receiver compatible with what you have and a second lightstand/umbrella holder/umbrella/flash combo.

If you haven’t seen this site, it is well worth reading.

Http://www.strobist.com

rob answers:

$20? Wow. Make sure that the flash is not one designed to be used with the non-ISO standard Sony or Minolta hot shoes. If it is, it will not work on your camera.

You may want to up your budget so you can afford to buy a proper Nikon off camera cable like the SC-28 TTL Remote Cord

rob answers:

All those ‘extras’ are going to be low quality junk that arent worth using. Rubbish filters, no-name bags and tripods…. Eerghh! Honestly stay away.

Look at B&H online. For $470/$480 you can get either a Pentax K-x (TIPA beginner SLR of the year 2010) or a Nikon D3000 both with 18-55mm lenses.

Http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/651674-REG/Pentax_16302_Pentax_K_x_Digital_SLR.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/635660-REG/Nikon_25462_D3000_SLR_Digital_Camera.html

The you can add something like an 8GB card for $17, a Lowepro bag for $25 and a Slik tripod with ball head for $90 (much better tripod than the basic $30 stuff!)

In total it’s around $612 and has none of the ‘junk’ in the other package. It’s a nice little starter set to be honest. Obviously you can pick a different bag, etc but you certainly can get a beginner SLR + SD card + bag + tripod for around $600!
)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/715524-REG/PNY_Technologies_P_SDHC8G4_EF_8GB_Optima_Secure_Digital.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/388726-REG/Lowepro_LP34700_0EU_Rezo_110_AW_Camera.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/614702-REG/Slik_611_849_Sprint_Pro_II_GM.html

rob answers:

Check eBay or Craiglist for similar items either in package or individually.

Without seeing the condition and checking the web, I will say couple hundred bucks at the most.

rob answers:

There is no TTL communication between camera and flash using one of these, but other than that, it should trigger the flash. If your flash doesn’t have decent manual control, it will be pretty much a waste of time and money.

I use one that adapts the standard flashes to the Sony shoe. With some flashes, it won’t fire off the shoe mount flash properly, but the PC socket works. My Metz 32 is like that… I have to use the sync cable to get it to fire reliably. A couple of old Albinon and Sunpak shoe mounts work just fine.

rob answers:

The two biggest brands are Pelican and Storm Case.

If you live near “The Container Store” they also sell hard-sided steel trunks. You’d have to get your own foam. And you’d need to check with your airline (if you go by air) as to what the maximum checked luggage size/weight is. It changes almost every day, it seems.

But from what I’ve seen, the best bargains at the Container Store are for their commerical plastic cases. To check it out, visit the Container Store at containerstore.com then click on collections>hobby>utility cases. You’d have to buy foam separately.

Here’s a link to Storm Case:

http://www.stormcase.com/

You can also shop at botac.com for Storm Case and Pelican.

EDIT: For goodness sake, don’t shop at Broadway Photo like someone suggested! They are a ripoff place.

rob answers:

The difference is in how much data the cards can hold

HC stands for High Capacity (4GB to 32GB).

rob answers:

The lens is manual everything, I don’t think it will even meter correctly (I could be wrong here I’m no Nikon expert).

Beware the cheap flashgun, some of these have high trigger voltages (sometimes well over 100 Volts) which is sure to damage your camera. Ideally the trigger voltage needs to be around 3 – 5 Volt to be safe. It only has a range of 13 feet which is not much more than your built in flash.

You can’t beat the sheer versatility of a dedicated flash unit, if you find the Nikon too expensive you may save a little by buying a Metz Mecablitz 48-AF1 here

http://www.metz.de/en/photo-electronics/mecablitz-models/system-flash-units/mecablitz-48-af-1-digital/product-information.html

It will do all the Nikon flash will do, plus you can update the firmware should Nikon change their spec. Not so important with Nikon, very important with Canon models.

I have several of these for my Pentax system and the bigger brother the 58-AF1. They will work as master or slave in manual or full TTL metered, They just work.

Chris

rob answers:

Soft boxes are wonderful, but that particular “deal” on ebay doesn’t include any lights, it is ONLY the softbox.

I bought a very cheap lighting kit off ebay, but it was very disappointing – not very strong at all and it has a strong (yellow) color cast.

You might want to consider a good flash plus translucent umbrella on a stand (plus a reflector) as a starter kit.

rob answers:

I don’t know that using an external flash off camera will give you much control.

For studio work, either a three light incandescent kit or one high capacity studio strobe (with modeling light) and a large reflector will serve you better.

Yes, if you are an editorial photographer and need to light large areas, owning three or four SB800′s and a high quality electronic flash meter may be very important, but for studio shooting, incandescent is the way to go.

Tell us more about what your photography goals are and we will be able to better answer your question.

rob answers:

You have a Nikon D80 so can control the SB800 off camera wirelessly using the commander function of your pop-up flash on the D80 – you can use TTL or go manual (& adjust power levels on the in camera menu)*. You won’t need a sync cord, or a hotshoe to PC adapter. Range will be line of sight, but much further than a sync cord & you won’t have trailing wires everywhere.

When you do want radio triggers (if you find Nikon CLS system, which is optical, is letting you down) if you’re prepared to lose TTL & adjust flash manually, then go for RF602 triggers – very popular in the Strobist community and only £27 for a transmitter & receiver.

You’ll need a umbrella hotshoe adapter to put the flash on a lightstand;

http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/item/MF6829/

the ‘shoe’ on the adapter is actually a cold shoe (no electrical connections) – just acts to grip the ‘foot’ of the flash. The umbrella socket allows for an umbrella (you will need light modifiers) to be tilted at the same angle as the flash.

*Put the SB800 into Remote mode & use the D80 ‘Flash Control for built in flash’ menu item.

rob answers:

You will soon find that your lens will be casting a shadow since it is between your flash source and the subject the closer you get to shooting at 1:1 image to subject ratios.

This is what macro photographers use IF they need a flash to light their subjects

It is a flash unit that mounts on the lens itself.

Http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/Product/Flashes/4803/R1C1-Wireless-Close-Up-Speedlight-System.html

I am sure you have seen it being used on the CSI dramas on TV

rob answers:

You really need to take a class in basic photography.

* Using a flash with a 500 mm lens is problematic. * at the focus point, usually over 100 feet, the flash will provide too much light in the foreground (look up the term, “inverse square law”. * unless the lens is electronically connected to your camera, metering is impossible (you will have to buy an external meter) * Shooting during the day, just use the Sunny 16 rule. 1/ISO @ f/16. Since your 500 mm is probably a f/8 mirror lens, that will mean your exposure will be 1/ISO x 4 @ f/8

rob answers:

I picked up a 7′ stand, flash mount/umbrella holder, and 33″ shoot-through umbrella off ebay for $11.50 a couple of weeks ago. Seller is “discountbulbs”, they have a LOT of adds.

Your D80 has a built-in flash commander, the SB-600 will slave to the camera that way. This works very well, unless outdoors in bright light. Indoors is much better. And you are limited to having the flash in line of sight to the pop-up on the camera for it to work.

Silver umbrellas give more specular highlights in portraits or wedding shots. White can be either reflective or shoot through. There are also reversible white/silver reflective umbrellas that allow you to have either.

There was a review of the various 50mm’s on www.dpreview.com not too long ago… Very good info in that review, including the value of the f/1.4 vs. F/1.8 models. In most cases, you’ll do just fine with the f/1.8 model.

rob answers:

Consider starting with the Nikon system http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/Flashes/index.page .

rob answers:

All Refurbished / recertified products from Adorama come with a 90 day return-to-Adorama warranty; 14 days from date of receipt for a full refund, and the balance for repair or replacement. They have all been restored to the exact manufacturer specifications by the original manufacturer.

Refurbs / recerts may be ex-store demos, possibly used in field tests or sales displays, or are items that have been ordered in error and returned to the retailer (who can’t then sell them as ‘new’ so they have to be sent back to the manufacturer for refurbishment / recertification.)

Refurbs / recerts can also have simply been pulled from the production line if something appears faulty, or which haven’t passed the final inspection.
Most of the time it is a very minor issue that needs correcting, nevertheless, once they are pulled from the normal flow of production, they get flagged as a refurbished model.
So you may actually get a model straight from the factory that really has never been used!

A refurbished / recertified item will have been checked over by the manufacturer by hand, inspected very thoroughly, diagnosed, and calibrated by experienced technicians. So, it could turn out to be more dependable than a new item – which will only have been checked by a process of systematic quality control protocol (ie by random sampling as they come off the conveyor belt).
Take a look at these discussions from pro photog. Groups for a view on buying refurbished:

http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=480482

http://photocamel.com/forum/canon-forum/45706-canon-refurbished-lens.html

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=434757

Review from Adorama website

http://www.adorama.com/ICA40DKR.html

Buy refurbished from now on!
By Matt LaVoie from Kansas City, KS on 1/3/2009
Describe Yourself:
Photo Enthusiast
Bottom Line:
Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
Comments about Canon EOS-40D Digital SLR Camera with 28-135 IS USM Lens – Refurbished by Canon U.S.A.:
I’ll review the “Refurbished” part of this sale since there are plenty of reviews for the camera elsewhere. This was received in official Canon packaging, and arrived in the exact condition as if it were brand new, with the small exception that the box was a different Canon box and had a ‘refurbished’ sticker on it. Otherwise, the camera and lens were SPOTLESS. I immediately reformatted a card in it and took a picture- it was numbered 0020 – so this camera had no more use on it than a brand new camera would have. I’ve had it about a month and it is fantastic, ZERO problems at all. You would never know this was ‘refurbished’. I will always buy items refurbished by Canon from now on because it saves so much money and you sacrifice nothing! [...] So no worries! BUY REFURBISHED. Don’t even think of wasting a few hundred dollars more- that money should go toward new lenses!

rob answers:

The number of pictures that memory will hold depends on the mega pixel setting on your camera. My camera will hold about 900 pictures with a 1 GB memory card and a setting of 3 mega pixels. It will take 84 minutes of video at 30 fps. I could use a 5.1 mega pixel setting, but there would no improvement in picture quality.

Most companies are touting high mega pixel to sell cameras, but high mega pixel settings may not be best. It takes longer to process and may not be needed unless required for very large pictures or enlarging small parts of pictures. Maximum print size for a 3 mega pixel setting is 8 x 10 inches. Click the following links to see the this in detail.
Http://www.kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier.jhtml?pq-path=398&pq-locale=en_US&_requestid=2039 …
Http://www.danscamera.com/Learning/going_digital/#resolution …

Click the source link for other camera tips and help with making digital cameras work better.

rob answers:

Get a d2x as the image quality is a quantum leap better and Ive seen them for $300 ish before on ebay

rob answers:

Tube models use more battery.. Or have to be plugged in to power.

LED models use less battery power..

However, neither are as bright as a electronic flash ring light, but they ARE cheaper.

The electronic flash ring light will usually allow for more DOF (depth of field) control and the ability to shoot much with out the use of a tripod or other supports, including being tethered to power. The electron flash is going off VERY fast, Regardless of the shutter speed, sometimes in the 1/10,000 of a second (some more, some a lil less) but still fast enuf to freeze a bee at a flower, humming bird at a feeder and such. But, if the shutter is too slow, you could include blur or motion, not to mention background light that may degrade the idea of the image.

Trouble with most electronic flash ring lights is the fact their light is like surround sound… It’s everywhere, but as a light, it’s flat and offers no depth or 3D EFX to make the subject stand out a bit.. Some have the ability to dim or turn off sections of the ring (LED’s, tubes if segmented, and such) allowing for “side light” to give that 3D EFX.

For the $$ tho your looking at a fun accessories that would give you hours of fun and enjoyment, assuming you have a macro lens to use it on. If you find your really getting into the concept of close up photography you can expand by getting extension tubes and / or bellows.

Have fun..

Bob – Tucson

rob answers:

It seems like a fair price, but be aware that you are NOT getting Nikon lenses. The lenses are at least half of the reason to buy a Nikon camrea in the first place.

rob answers:

Why not go to calumet and hire the gear?

You are going to have a couple of problems in that the D60 does not have a pc synch socket as far as i know.

You could buy a couple of low cost guns (check they have a manually zoomable head, bounce and swivel) and get a 10$ slave trigger for each.

rob answers:

I would not buy any cards through ebay. Too many fake cards. Buy from a local store instead so you can be sure you are getting the real thing.

rob answers:

It’s hard to know exactly how this kit works, but please be aware that the D50 does not have a flash sync terminal to plug a PC sync cord into. If the master unit can be triggered with your on-camera flash (the pop-up) or if the master unit can be mounted in your hot shoe, it might work. If it relies on plugging into your camera, it won’t work. You may be able to find a hotshoe-to-PC terminal adapter, though. If the seller is a dealer, such as Cameta or 47th Street Photo, they should be able to answer any questions about compatibility issues and I would suggest that you clear this up with the seller before you place a bid.

The D50 is compatible with the Nikon Creative Lighting System utilizing the SB600 or SB800.

rob answers:

Metz would be the only other real name brand to look at. Quality stuff, they last forever. You can get a complete, ready use Metz 45 handle mount from KEH for less than $100. A complete Metz 60 is not much more. Both are much more powerful than the shoe mount flashes.

Sunpak 383 Super or Vivitar 285Hv would be the other choices.

rob answers:

No but I’ve had a slave before.

rob answers:

I am only guessing but if the flash can go into manual mode, then you may have a chance to use it externally.

I suggest you check the flash manual to be sure. My old SB-24 manual has an intricate diagram of how to connect different Nikon flashes, bodies and adaptors including which can connect and which won’t. I have never used it away from my F401 and use manual Vivitar flashes and Sonia peanuts for multi-flash setup.

rob answers:

Sigma super flash: retails around $230, so I’d say $150

70-300mm lens: Retails around $170, so maybe $125

18-55mm lens: refurbished units go around $90, so if yours is just used and not refurb, I’d say $75

SB-400: Brand new is $120, so $90-$100, bump it up to $150 if you’re including the TTL cord

Case: $30? What did you pay for it? There are different cases out there.

D3000: A refurbished body-only is around $375. So I’d say around that for a used model. I’d be hesitant to purchase a used camera from a stranger for anything more than that when I can get a Nikon refurb unit with a warranty somewhere else for the same price.

rob answers:

I’m not aware of any Nikon brand flashes that will work on your camera(s), with the features listed, for under $200. The cheapest, the SB-400 does not have user changeable output, have a swivel head, but does have a rated 2.5s recharge, the next, the SB-600, is around $220 and has all the features you want.

rob answers:

Standard factory distribution includes the camera, a battery (if it uses AAs, none are included), a wall charger, a shoulder strap, an eyecup (which is really a part of the camera), a viewfinder cover, a hot shoe cover, the user’s manual, a companion CD including some programs (that I usually find unnecessary) and the body cap. If a kit lens is included, the lens will come in its own box with its own lens caps. A lens hood is optional.

One important thing that is not included is the memory card. If you buy from a distributor or from a store, they usually include the memory card in the package along with a carrying bag, a cleaning kit and sometimes a UV filter. If the camera uses AA batteries, you may get a free set of Lithiums or a free set of Ni-MH plus charger or both (lithiums and Ni-MH).

rob answers:

Knowing what sort of photos you want to take helps. Here are some more steps to help you decide which camera to choose:

http://www.digital-slr-guide.com/

http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-choose-a-digital-slr-camera-2

HTH

rob answers:

Jack video quality of a camcorder will be great , but there are few problem with that ,
well camera are not ment to shoot video so you cannot shoot video more than 30 minutes , or more than 4gb at a time , so if you want to shoot an hour video you have to do in pieces ,
secondly the file size is 1.5 times bigger than that of video camera .

Which is best camera in the list ? Well nikon d7000 is the best , it has all the features that t3i or d3100 has and even has some more ,

if you just want to shoot picture and take occasional video d3100 is more than enough ,

if you are semi pro and want best of both world d7000 is all you need .

If you need to shoot video go for video camera .

There is a hybrid cam , from NEX-VG10 , which cost 2000$ but has both feature . It’s a camera and also a video camera .

If you are fine with short duration of movie and ready to deal with deal the problem , all you need is d7000 .

rob answers:

Worry about the camera, not the Kit.

Go to www.cameralabs.com and talk a look at each camera. Also take a look at consumer reports.

Canon makes a good product. I would take a look at Camera Labs and see what the testing as resulted in.

You might also take a look at Lumix.

But really, a lot depends on the type of photography that you plan on doing to be honest.

And while the kits seem good, the camera can be a good price, but the other kit products can be crap, that’s where they make money.
If you want a good deal, and good service, look at BH photo, and Adorama. Both out of NY, and I can tell you that they sell good products, and know what they are talking about.

Http://www.adorama.com/

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/

Good luck in what you get.

rob answers:

The Nikon equivalent to the Canon T3i would be the D5100. Both are fine cameras, and capture the photos you need, as long as you know what you’re doing. I don’t think you’ll see any difference in image quality so whichever one you choose doesn’t matter.

Go to the store and have a feel for both cameras. The real difference you will immediately see is the placement of the buttons. On both cameras, adjust the aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and also the Image Delete button. Which one is easier to manipulate for you? Which one is more comfortable in your hands?

If you’ve been shooting film, digital should be a cakewalk for you.

rob answers:

Thanks, OMG. I’ll post two of my stock answers, since they seem to apply…

The February 2007 issue of Popular Photography has an article where they compared the top 10 MP DSLR’s. I took the scores and ranked the cameras similar to the way Formula 1 gives championship points. I just gave 5 for 1st place down to 1 for last place, splitting the difference when cameras tied in their catagories.

They evaluated Image Quality (giving this twice as much weight as anything else), Ease of Use, Control, and System Flexibility.

The final order and my scores are:

Nikon D80 – 17.5 points
- BEST in Image Quality, Control and System Flexibility
Canon Rebel XTi (400D) – 13.5 points
- Tied for best in System Flexibility
Pentax K10D – 11 points
- Tied for best in Ease of Use
Samsung GX10 – 11 points
- Tied for best in Ease of Use
Sony Alpha 100 – 7 points
- LAST in Image Quality, Ease of Use and System Flexibility.”

Then again, this is the same magazine that put the Sony Alpha 100 dead last in this comparison named it the camera of the year in the previous issue! (In a follow-up to this seeming error, Pop Photo published the explanation that only the D80 and the Sony had been tested by the end-of-year deadline for choosing the Camera of the Year. Sony won on the strength of low price and built-in image stabilization. The other 3 that beat Sony in shoot-out were not tested until after the Camera of the Year was selected, because they were not yet available.)

Go to the original question and read the responses for more opinions.

Http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=AiG00eHyd0oq5b.X7J.jiULzy6IX?qid=20070113133139AAHWJY0

If you want to get the “best” for the real world, consider the Nikon D200 or Canon 30D if you can afford it. For about $300-500 less, look at the results of the recent PopPhoto test and choose from that list according to your taste.

Personally, I use a Nikon D200 and would recommend it without hesitation to someone who has some knowledge of photography. For someone who wants the “best,” but is starting with somewhat of an “entry level” knowledge base, I’d suggest the Nikon D80.

There are people out there who will state their preference for the Canon cameras and I will not argue with them. The Canon 30D and 400D are excellent cameras as well. You would have to visit a camera store or camera department and pick them up and see what you think.

This review is now available online at:

http://www.popphoto.com/cameras/3569/10mp-dslr-shootout.html

Here’s another reference from outside the photographic press. Consumer reports compared the Nikon D80, Canon Rebel XTi and Sony Alpha. Personally, I’d say that the Nikon came out on top here, also. It beats the Sony in “noise-free ISO” with an acceptable rating at ISO 1600 (kind of optimistic, I think…) compared to the Sony’s ISO 400. It beats the Canon (in my opinion) by having a spot meter that the Canon does not offer.

Http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/electronics-computers/news-electronics-computers/november-2006/shootout-10-megapixel-digital-slr-cameras-11-06/overview/0611_digital-slr-shoot-out.htm

Here’s another comparison or interest:

http://www.digitalcamerainfo.com/content/Canon-Rebel-XTi-vs-Nikon-D80-vs-Sony-Alpha-A100-Head-to-Head-to-Head-Digital-Camera-Review-.htm

[Note the navigation menu near the top of the review]

The next thing to consider is what lens to start with and where you go from there. If you are new to this, I’d say to just get the “kit” lens, which seems to be the 18-135 lens for the D80, and get started. Once you know where you really want to go with your photography, Nikon has an almost unlimited family of lenses to choose from.

~~~~~~~~~~

Comparing the Nikon D80 vs. Canon 400D/Rebel XTi

Check this page:

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond80/page21.asp

The first thing I notice is that the Canon does not have a spot meter. I thought they added that in the XTi, but I guess past criticism was not heard at Canon.

The Nikon user-definable Auto-ISO is an interesting feature that lets you define a couple of parameters about what’s acceptable to you and what’s not. I don’t think this would be the tie-breaker, though, if you can’t decide between cameras.

The D80 has a pentaprism and the Canon uses mirrors. “They” say that mirrors are getting pretty good, but I would expect the pentaprism to be a brighter viewfinder.

The Nikon lets you do actual multiple exposures in the camera and some people think this is pretty cool.

Click “next” and move to page 22 and you’ll see some image comparisons. Click “next” a couple more times to see more direct comparisons on page 25. Click “next” a couple more times to see some noise level comparisons on page 27. It looks to me like the D80 has actually tamed the noise better than the XTi, but read the comments about image softness.

Click one more time and see that the D80 is clearly the winner in image sharpness.

Go on to the next page and read the conclusions.

You can go to the side-by-side at http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebyside&cameras=canon_eos400d%2Cnikon_d80&show=all and also click on “Our in depth review” and “Read owner opinions” for each camera.

The last line in the Nikon D80 review reads, “If you’re a more discerning photographer who can see the advantages offered by the ‘all round’ D80 you may well consider the extra money well spent.”

The last line in the Canon 400D/XTi review reads, “Thanks to its blood line and low price the EOS 400D will no doubt be a huge success for Canon. However unlike the EOS 350D, for me it’s no longer the first or obvious choice, so before jumping on the bandwagon make sure you’ve weighed up the competition.”

In other words, you’ve selected with the two best cameras in their price class. Canon is probably saving a little money using their CMOS sensor and this will bring them some market share. Whether the sensor and images are better or not is open to wild debate based on personal preferences. Whether one camera feels better in your hands might just be the determining factor. You have got to go to a real camera store and handle them both. I guess Costco, Circuit City or Best Buy would also have actual samples on display, but you may not get as much help from the staff.

As far as lens choice, I’d rather see you start with one decent lens instead of the kit lens, although Nikon’s kit lens (18-55) has actually tested pretty well. Canon’s new 18-55 Series II lens is okay, also. For Nikon, I like the Nikkor AF-S 18-70 f/3.5-4.5G ED DX. This costs about $300. I bought this for my wife on her D50 and liked it so much (for the money) that I bought it as a backup for one of my cameras. Nikon is now offering the D80 in a kit with a very nice 18-135 lens, although it does have a polycarbonate (“plastic”) mount that might begin to wear if you buy additional lenses and change them often. For Canon, one of our best answerers (Panacea) recommends the EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM. This costs about $500, so there goes the $200 price difference.

Of course, you’ll need a decent memory card and I recommend a genuine Sandisk Ultra II (60X) or Extreme III (133X) of at least 1GB – preferable 2 GB – for either camera. Lexar is another excellent card supplier and they have the “Professional” 133X as well as the Platinum 80X to choose from. Both Lexar and Sandisk come with image recovery software and limited lifetime warranties.
…..
The February 2007 issue of Popular Photography has an article where they compared the top 10 MP DSLR’s, including the D80 and XTi. The Nikon D80 was BEST in Image Quality, Control and System Flexibility and the Canon Rebel XTi (400D) tied with the D80 for best in System Flexibility, but won no other categories.

Http://www.popphoto.com/cameras/3569/10mp-dslr-shootout.html

…..
Here’s another reference from outside the photographic press. Consumer reports compared the Nikon D80, Canon Rebel XTi and Sony Alpha. Personally, I’d say that the Nikon came out on top here, also. It beats the Sony in “noise-free ISO” with an acceptable rating at ISO 1600 (kind of optimistic, I think…) compared to the Sony’s ISO 400. It beats the Canon (in my opinion) by having a spot meter that the Canon does not offer.

Http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/electronics-computers/news-electronics-computers/november-2006/shootout-10-megapixel-digital-slr-cameras-11-06/overview/0611_digital-slr-shoot-out.htm

…..
Nikon D80 vs. Canon Rebel XTi (400D) vs. Sony Alpha A100

http://www.digitalcamerainfo.com/content/Canon-Rebel-XTi-vs-Nikon-D80-vs-Sony-Alpha-A100-Head-to-Head-to-Head-Digital-Camera-Review-.htm [Note the navigation menu near the top of the review]
…..

rob answers:

What on earth are you talking about?, the 20D was discontinued years ago and sells on eBay for about $500 or less!! (where on earth did you get the idea they are $2000??)

The alternative for your price range is the Canon 40D

http://the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-40D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Review.aspx

Do not bother with the 10D, lovely cameras but difficult to find one these days with a low shutter count and they are incompatible with EF-S lenses.

+++
Additional: That must be mistake, the price is completely wrong. I also notice that it is not Amazons price, it is ‘Wall Street Photo’s’ price, selling through Amazon. You can buy a 50D and 70-200mm f/4 L lens for that price. Forget about the 20D completely, it is either a typo or they are trying to rip somebody off. Look at the 40D or the 50D, the price the 40D is going for now is excellent, check out B&H for better prices (and 100% trustworthy)

.

rob answers:

I agree with those that state there is no best brand. Nikon and Canon are the big two and will have more models, lenses, and other accessories available. Sony seems to be on the way up.

Below I provided a few links that have cameras reviews and other information.

Good luck.

Mark

rob answers:

If your lens is a Canon FD mount there is an adapter to Nikon body. The link is below.

rob answers:

As a photography student I will assume that your first purchase would be a very basic film camera – this basic camera with no processing power forces the photographer to really learn what they are doing to get the shots that they need.

Based on the assumption that you have a basic (and cheap now!) SLR – then the digital option becomes obvious – stick with the same system since the lenses would be interchangeable – so saving money where you arn’t buying 2 systems. Cheaper again because you only need the SLR body – so saving £100 or more

Now based on your question I think that this will be your first SLR? In that case look at your budget. With digital photography the sensor and MP is the key here – before the lenses used to be most important but now the sensor is key. Assuming say, a £300 to £500 budget you really want to go for the highest pixels you can get – look in second hand camera shops, and also the ability to export the pictures as RAW data files rather than jpeg (processed in the camera) RAW file allow you to manipulate the image on the computer with better effects and to have larger prints with better quality. Second thing to consider is are you going to use this as a base for a future system? If so then go for the big names – the Canon, Nikons and so on because they are more likely to support their current ranges for longer and lenses will be backwards compatible for longer too

If I was to get a Digital SLR I would go for a canon,but based on my existing film SLR

Last point – camera shop might be your best bet for second hand camera at ££££ because there you can hold it and see that it works before it is posted

rob answers:

1) EOS 1Ds Mark III
2) EOS 1D Mark III
3) EOS 5D Mark II
4) 50D

If you need a lightweight walk-about as a backup camera, you might consider the Canon 450D/XSi.

Edit: I read the remarks below and agree. Shooting moving wildlife with long telephoto lenses in unpredictable and possibly low light conditions requires high quality images at high ISOs. That means Canon’s best offering is the 5D Mark II, and you should take a non-biased look at other brands if you do not already have a lot of investment in Canon products.

rob answers:

No – but you can use your autofocus Canon lenses on Canon Digital SLRs. Because of the smaller sensor size in the less expensive Canon Digital SLRs, your lenses will act like they have a 1.5 times larger focal length. (For example, your 28mm to 90mm will act like a 42mm to 135mm lenses on a film camera.).

rob answers:

The T1i is the better and newer of the 2. It’s smaller and has longer battery life, bigger LCD, it is a light weight outdoors wonder because it’s compact and takes killer HD video.
I used to have the T1i and now i have the T2I. Very versatile and many EF-S Canon lens choices

rob answers:

You don’t have to use the remote to keep the shutter open in BULB mode but, it is recommended. The reason for this recommendation is that touching the camera to open/close the shutter, even if it is mounted on a tripod, will introduce movement that can/will blur the image. Otherwise, you have answered your own question, BULB is the only way to keep the shutter open longer than 30-seconds. As you have found, other exposure modes (manual, aperture priority, shutter priority, and programmed exposure) allow a maximum exposure time of 30 seconds.

rob answers:

At this time (and only in the past 8 to 10 months) if you tend to shoot any sports indoors or in other situations other than bright sun, you need a camera that has very low noise at hight ISO settings. Only the Nikon D3 and D700 have that attribute at this time. If you tend to shoot machine-gun style, then at this time the Nikon D3 with a maximum shooting rate of 11 fps is the only clear choice.

On the other hand, it you are a generalist shooter, any of the full frame Nikon or Canon cameras will be a good choice due to their huge systems of lenses and accessories used by pros

rob answers:

This website gives you the comparison between d80, rebel xti and Alpha A100D….but, I am sure you will make up u’r mind for d80 after that. Although the d40x is a good entry level camera, it doesn’t have a built in lens motor.
Bye and enjoy u’r camera

rob answers:

Not without an adapter, but with an adapter, the functionality is terrible at best.

Canon switched from the FD mount to the EOS mount in 1988

rob answers:

I recommend Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CBKJGG?ie=UTF8&tag=nop107-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001CBKJGG”

rob answers:

A SLR camera doesn’t have to be expensive, nor does it mean heavy with a lot of lenses and accessories to carry around. Canon, Nikon and many other manufacturers offer entry level SLR’s that can function much like a point and shoot, or an SLR, depending on how you want to use them. The Rebel XTi, mentioned above is one such camera. You can read about a few more here: http://ezinearticles.com/?Simply-The-Best-Digital-SLR-Camera—Period&id=944233

rob answers:

*Can it take photos that make the subject crystal clear and the background blury? (I heard you have to buy a special lens for this effect….. Is this true?!?)
ANSWER: No, you don’t need a special lens, although some lenses are better at this than others. Essentially, this is about subject positioning in relation to the background and choosing the right aperture.

*Can you buy a remote controll (with a long cord) to go with it (so i can set it on a tripod and take photos of children)
ANSWER: The Canon RC-5 Wireless remote will do this without the need for a long wire.

Http://www.amazon.com/Canon-RC-5-Wireless-Remote-Controller/dp/B00004WCCQ/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=photo&qid=1198684944&sr=1-2

*Does it come with software so I can upload my photos on my computer
ANSWER: yes, it does, along with a cord. But I recommend a memory card reader instead, without the need to install the software.

*Does it take good enought photos so that I could use it as a professional photographer (just starting out, babies and toddlers, family photos…..)
ANSWER: yes, it’s good enough for these, but the skill of the photographer is more important here. You could get a better camera, but if your skill isn’t up to par, it won’t matter what camera you get.

*Is there a website that shows all the accesories for the camera
ANSWER: http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ProductCatIndexAct&fcategoryid=111

* Would I have to buy an extra lens or is the one it comes with good enough
ANSWER: To start off with, it’s good enough. But as your needs and skills improve, you’ll have to buy extra lenses to achieve various effects, like macro shooting, telephoto shooting, or better portraits.

rob answers:

The Canon SX10 IS is not a DSLR, but it’s still a great camera, the A590 IS is great for the price.

No matter what camera you have, if you want to take better photos you can join www.flickr.com take part in the group’s discussions you’ll learn more and more everyday, try macro photography, learn the rule of thirds, learn how to set white balance manually…

Good luck!

rob answers:

They are both highly comparable cameras, for about the same price. I’d say that the bigger difference is in the lens that normally comes with the camera. The ‘kit’ lens on the Nikon is quite a bit better than the ‘kit’ lens on the Canon.

Also consider a better lens, such as Nikon’s 18-135mm or their 18-200mm zoom. It’s reasonably priced and pretty decent quality for all that zoom range. Also- canon doesn’t offer one of those.

Image quality wise- the Nikon and Canon are nearly identical. See if you can tell the difference in these resolution charts:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos400d/page28.asp

rob answers:

Yes and no.

If you buy a Nikon camera like the D90 or better, it can use all the old Nikon lenses that are AI as well as all the auto-focus lenses made by Nikon (AF, AF-I and AF-S) but they will only work on Nikon cameras

Any Canon lens older than 1988 will NOT work on a Canon digital SLR

And of course, Pentax k-mount lenses will work on any of their Pentax DSLR’s

Was there any specific questions you had in mind?

rob answers:

Actually the correct term is dslr… Not an slr that’s digital – just so you know.

There’s no such camera for that money – won’t happen. At the least you’ll need, based on today’s
conversion rates, about $400 pounds and that’s the least expensive Canon dslr camera out there.

So, I happen to believe your uncle is correct because I’m a Canon owner… All you need is more
money.

rob answers:

Go to http://dpreview.com and compare the different models of cameras, side by side, and feature by feature. Read the reviews, and look at the sample photos. See which has what you are looking for. Then go to a camera store, and handle the different models you are interested in, and buy the one which feels right in your hands.

rob answers:

I don’t have one
but check on yahoo shopping
also, check out the nikon D40x

rob answers:

Generally speaking, yes. Look in the back of your DSLR manual (if you have one) and look for a table of compatibility. SOME features may be lost with some lenses, but you will still be able to use the lens.

rob answers:

I think if your looking for DSLR, The best for beginners will be Canon EOS Rebel T3 (1100D) or Canon EOS Rebel T2i (550D). They are easy to operate. Your photos will also be great if you will use Canon printers.

rob answers:

Canon 1100d is the best

rob answers:

The XSi (450D) is an excellent first choice of dSLR. I have one and am very happy with it’s performance and image quality. It’s capable of excellent image quality, however this largely depends on the user and also the lens you are using.

Lens choice is very important if you want the best image quality…so try to avoid buying an ultra cheap tele (zoom) lenses. A lens will last you many, many years if you treat it right, so choose wisely. Prime lenses (one focal length only) always make a great choice.

I recommend you buy the kit, and then later on when you have mastered your camera’s manual controls…and you want to shoot in different focal lengths, buy a better lens or two. Just don’t go ultra budget with the lens (EF50mm f/1.8 being a possible exception).

It’s also a good idea to attach a UV filter to your lens…it will protect the front element of your lens from damage or scratches.

rob answers:

Sounds very feasible. The 3000 looks tiny, I’d avoid that. The 4000 has at least a head that can move up and down and zoom.
From a 2AA flash I would not expect too much in the way of power output so either you’;d have to move them close or you would have to work with multiple flashes.

Despite that, $40 for a flash with a built-in optical slave is a very interesting price. You may face the challenge of setting the output manually which can be a challenge at first.

So, to summarize, yes this does look very possible but it will require a bit of time to work out settings.

rob answers:

Canon generally makes better lenses. This usually drives up their prices and can be a problem to the financially challenged.

Nikon is usually more technologically advanced. This is good for photographers that love rattling off their camera’s specs.

Pentax is the most backward compatible with regards to its own older lenses. Their newest model, the K-x is now offered in dandy colors, sadly only in Japan at first.

Sony uses sensor sizes similar to the top three above and it’s only drawback are its own lenses which they solved by offering the more superior Carl Zeiss lenses.

Kodak is a pioneer in digital photography and makes digital sensors for all camera brands. Sadly, their best dSLR camera was made eons ago during the early stages of dSLR development.

Other brands opted to use the smaller four-thirds format using a small sensor size than those brands above.

There is no best camera. It all depends on brand loyalty or salesmanship. If you ask me, they are all practically the same. As long as it has shutter and aperture control, it’ll work for me. Maybe that’s the reason I chose Pentax.

rob answers:

Hmmm…well how large would you need to enlarge them? If it’s no more than A3, then the 450D will be perfectly fine (and probably better)

However one problem with these SLRs is that it’s won’t enlarge very well without a very high quality lens. For landscapes you will probably need the Canon EF 14mm f2.8 L, but it’s a very expensive lens.

Depending on the still life that you shoot you’ll need many different lenses, but you can’t go wrong with the 50mm primes (either the 1.8 or the 1.4), along with the 70-200mm f2.8L and the IS version of it. And you will need a good lighting setup to go with.

Finally, full frame sensors will still enlarge better, however the original Canon 5D is still £1200 or so, and the 5DII is £2000, and the 1DsIII will be £3-4000.

rob answers:

Ok first of all make sure that you really want a DSLR. DSLRs require you to invest a lot of money and time. Canon also makes a point and shoot, the SX10 or SX110 that has an 18x zoom which you might consider, its about $400. The 18-55mm lens has minimal optical quality and is not a big range at all. You will probably need to purchase a lens that gets to at least 200mm. Instead of the 18-55 I would recommend the 18-200 f/3.5-5.6. Yes its more expensive, but range seems important to you, so you will save yourself buying two lenses. What are your concerns about autofocus? All of Canons EF and EF-S mount lenses including the 18-55 have autofocus. The ones with USM are faster, but you probably wont have to worry about that unless you are shooting sports.

rob answers:

Canon and Nikon are the big boys on the block. Followed by Sony, Pentax and Olympus.

All of these brands will have entry level cameras in your price range.

If you want to have the ability to shoot video then your options are the

Canon Rebel T1i $850
Nikon D5000 $850
Pentax K7 $1,200

If you don’t care about video then

Canon Rebel XS or XSi
Nikon D60, or the new D3000
Pentax K2000
Sony A220, A330, A350

rob answers:

Almost any TTL speedlight would do, from the SB-15 on up.

SB-15, 24 and 27 are all quite cheap used.

The SB-400 mentioned earlier is useless on any film body except the F6.

rob answers:

I haven’t found any off-brand flashes as good or accurate as a Nikon.

That said, I’ve never heard of Bower & neither of the Sunpaks were ever designed for autofocus technology, yet alone digital.

If you use the sunpaks, you’ll have to shoot 100% manual & might even risk damage to the camera. Since a repair on the camera will be around $250, just move that money to an SB-600 and get a good flash that will work in Auto.

rob answers:

The sb-26 and the YN460 will fire once they see your main flash go off but you’re going to have to set output levels on the flashes yourself. That takes some skill and experience to get it right.

The SB-600 will participate in a nikon CLS setup. You could even get both of the flashes away from the camera and trigger them with the popup flash.

Now it gets down to personal preference. I really like the Nikon CLS system, I find it a very easy and convenient way to handle a multiple flash setup. Others, deep blue2 for example, prefer an all manual setup and shun the (rather expensive) nikon flashes.
Neither of us is right, both systems can with a bit of practice give you excellent results.

Some suggested reading: http://www.olegnovikov.com/technical/nikoncls/cls.shtml

Joe Mcnally is also an avid user of Nikon flashes and writes very informative posts on his blog: http://www.joemcnally.com/blog/

rob answers:

I haven’t been able to locate a service manual for the SB-22, but here’s an exploded view showing how it (dis)assembles.

rob answers:

I found a flash card for the 775 that’s 2GB on Amazon.com from $9.01. I’d call the vendor and confirm that the camera can take a 2GB card. The 2gig cameras were at 16-512mb that I recall and am not sure about the 2gb. There’s a limit to the memory you can put in cameras, give them a call. You can download the user manual from Nikon and check it to confirm. Here’s the link for the guide.

Http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/13359/~/coolpix-775-user’s-guide

edit: I should say the 512mb is certainly much better than the stone tablet the 8mb is. But if you can get more on a disk, and for near the same price it is worth checking out to be sure.