rob answers:

Given your budget, this is what I would do:

Go to www.bhphotovideo.com and check out their used department. Consider a used 20d (just body) for a hair over $700. This is a pro-grade camera, and will meet your 5fps quota. It will also be more durable than the consumer-grade versions (dig rebels). It is a superb camera and a good deal at that price. B&H is a reputable dealer and I wouldn’t hesitate to buy their used products.

Be aware that digital SLR cameras (other than big $ ones like the 5d) have sensors that are bigger than those of point-and-shoot digicams, but smaller than film. This means that it takes fewer megapixels than a point-and shoot to make a certain sized enlargement. It also means, though, that your lenses will actually reach further on a “crop body” D-SLR than they will on a film camera. For the 20d and similar cameras, multiply the focal length by 1.6x to get the effective length. This means that your longer lenses reach further, but that you have to go even shorter to get true “wide angle.”

All Canon digital SLR’s use compact-flash chips.

Now here is an unpleasant truth: the “kit” lenses that come with these cameras range in quality from mediocre to downright rubbish. Unfortunately, the same is true for the the “consumer grade” 70-300mm zooms available at Bestbuy and the like. If you really want one, look on B&H, Adorama, or any of the other major site’s used sections. They usually go for $100, as they are commonly sold back when people realize that they don’t deliver on quality. You will find these lenses typically lack the sharpness and contrasty color that one associates with a serious D-SLR setup. Why spend that much on a fancy camera, only to look through cheap glass? If you want to read about lenses, go to www.photozone.de and the reviews page on www.fredmiranda.com.

The single best lens to get for your new canon D-SLR is the 50mm f/1.8 prime lens. This lens is fixed at a “medium” range, 90mm effectively on your 20d or the like. It will not zoom. However, it takes BEAUTIFUL pictures. It is also VERY fast (if you’re getting this camera, read up on how f-stops relate to shooting under different conditions). You will be able to shoot in low light with no flash. This lens is $70 new. Its a steal. Run, don’t walk.

The bad news is that the 50mm prime is a rarity in providing that image quality at an affordable price. For wide angle, look at the Tokina 19-35mm f/3.5-4.5 ($150 give or take). This is generally considered the cheapest good WA out there. Be aware that it will only be moderately wide on the 20d, but lower than 19mm starts getting pricey. This isn’t pro quality, but its good.

Long range isn’t cheap. The best “cheap” option is the 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 ($250). This lens is kind of slow (high f-stop numbers), but it will produce better images than its 70-300mm brother. Its still not great, though. The best deal in tele-zooms is the Canon 70-200mm f/4L. This is an “L” series (pro grade) lens that takes knockout pictures. It runs about $550, and would shoot at 112-320mm on a 20d or equivalent. The added benefit is this lens works suprisingly well with a 1.4 tele-extender. Adding one of these between the camera and lens will multiply your effective range to 448mm at the cost of a few f-stops and a *small* bit of resolution. You can’t usually get away with using an extender on a zoom lens while still making good quality, but this is an exception.

Also worth considering is the 70-300mm 4-5.6 *IS* (not to be confused with the non-IS). This is an image stabilized lens, and much better quality optics than the non-IS. This runs about $550 as well.

If you honestly need the range, but can’t increase your budget to buy the L series or the IS, then I would think long and hard about a used Canon 10d, which is still an excellent camera capable of producing lovely 8×10′s. These often go for $400 or less on the fredmiranda.com for-sale bulletins and similar places. Once again, don’t buy a fancy camera only to skimp on the glass. For what its worth, I own a 10d that I love to death, and I’m far more interested in upgrading my lenses than that body.

In the end, choosing lenses is about what you are going to do with them. If you are shooting indoor sports, for instance, nothing slower than the expensive f/2.8 lenses will do very well. If you are shooting wildlife, 300mm is usually a START for the range you need, not the end. If you provide more information on those action shots, I can probably cater my recommendations better.

So, to recap this novel:

1. I need a $1000 starter camera setup:
-Used 20d ($720)
-2gb Compact Flash ($50)
-Canon 50mm f/1.8 ($70)
-Tokina 19-35mm f3.5-4.5 ($150)

2. I need range and my price is flexible
-Add 70-200mm f/4 ($550) to above

3. I need range and price is not (very) flexible
-Subtract 20d and replace with used 10d

rob answers:

Well it really depends on what you call reasonably priced, I have friends who are willing to spend £3000 on equipment. Even I will happily spend £600 on a second hand camera.

If you’re studying a photography course it’s likely that you will require a film SLR camera, as well as a digital camera of some description (whether it’s a digital SLR or a digital compact/bridge is not so important).

I think for your needs you should look at a Nikon FE2 with AI 50mm lens. And also a second hand D200.

rob answers:

Well the Nikon D90 is a very good camera (it’s not necessarily a beginner camera) but it is selling new for around $900.

It’s less than 2 pounds (25.2 ounces) which is very light for such a high end camera

rob answers:

Which canon and sigma lenses do you have? What are the focal lengths? For example, 18-55mm, 70-300mm. It will say on the ring on the front of the lenses. Then, which model is the old camera you aren’t allowed to take out of the house? If the canon the lenses fit it not an eos series camera, and then those lenses wouldn’t fit any of the ef-mount lenses.

Okay. It is like this: each camera system has a different mount. The current mount for the canon system is the ef-mount. If the lenses you have are designated ef, then they will work on an eos canon SLR, digital or 35mm.

Here is a chart of the 35mm Canon EOS models, what level they are and when they were made:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EOS_50

Scroll down just a bit and you will see the chart. If the canon that fits the lenses is on this chart, then they are ef-mount lenses. If they are good lenses, then my advice would be to stay with canon. I will give you more info when you update with the specifics from the lenses and the camera.

Edit-Okay, I checked for you and from what I have been told the 28-80 is basically a kit lens. Okay, but cheaply made. The 70-210 however is a pretty decent lens. So, I would say it is up to you whether you stay with canon or switch brands. If you do stay with canon, will you be allowed to use the 70-210 lens? If so, then maybe you should. But if not, then now is the time to do some major research and decide which brand you would like the best.

Personally, I am in the process of switching to Sony/Minolta. I like the ergonomics. I like that I can find Minolta lenses to use with the Sonys.

But I would really research because once you decide on a brand, you will be building a system that can only be used with that brand of camera bodies.

I think someone may have linked you here already, but it deserves a second plug:

http://www.dpreview.com/

It really helped me make my final decision on which camera I wanted to go with.

rob answers:

If you are considering the Canon XTi and XSi, take a look at the Canon Ti (500D). It is about the same price as the XTi or XSi but instead of having the Digic III processor it has the new Digic IV processor. It also has a higher megapixel sensor, not to mention a lot more features than the two. I would also take a look at the Nikon D90, which for your budget is probably the class leader in terms of picture quality. Everyone would love to have the Nikon D3, but at almost $4,000.00 for the body, it is quite expensive. The D300 is a little more affordable but still cost about $1,800.00 for the body alone. The new Pentax K-7 ($1,300.00 body) seems to offer a lot for the money with nice features like full magnesium body, weather & environmental sealing, 100% viewfinder view, multiple manual control options, and is one the most compact and lightest DSLR’s on the market. Check out the links below for good reviews of all three cameras. Especially check out Section 4. Body & Design of the K-7 review for a great picture comparing the physical size of Canon, Nikon, and Olympus cameras against the Pentax K-7. In terms of cost the K-7 is about in the middle of the Ti D90 and D300.

rob answers:

Exactly my thoughts ! This is what most of us need in DSLR cameras. One addition I want is a spot meter to go with it.

(Actually Leica M9 provides the same satisfaction that you might be looking for but then it’s not a DSLR and it doesn’t support various lens mounts).

In my DSLR, the things that I fiddle around with are -
Modes – M, A, S.
White balance
Flash mode- ttl or commander
Exposure compensation when using A or S mode
Screen to check the results and to view the levels at times.

I rarely increase my camera’s ISO.
I have never bothered to use the advanced autofocus modes that are now provided in various bodies.
I don’t fiddle around with image processing menus since I always post-process.
There are a hundred things in the menus that I know exist but I never use them.

I do hope someone hears you.

rob answers:

Good question Edwin.

Many of us SLR and now DSLR users forget the disadvantages of an optical viewfinder. Most macro lenses for instance are f2.8 with the costs that the wider aperture entails, purely to get a brighter view from the light reflected from a small area so you can focus, nobody is going to use that aperture on even a close up shot let alone a 1:1 life-size image. With Electronic Viewfinders and even rear screens (less useful in bright light) for the first time you can view a macro shot with the aperture your going to use and the depth of field your going to get on a bright screen, you can even get a magnified view both of which makes focusing much easier.

I don’t think that a semi-silvered mirror with it’s 2 stop drop in the brightness the sensor sees has any advantage, why not just get rid of it altogether? If we compare the Sony A55 and a Pentax K5 or Nikon D7000, all of which use the same sensor, a lot of the advantage in the low noise, low light performance and dynamic range (which is widest at low ISO) of this fine, state of the art sensor is lost due to the translucent mirror as the camera has to use a higher sensitivity to compensate for the 2 stop mirror loss, not to mention the dimmer viewfinder. It’s an idea that has never worked in the past, and I really don’t understand Sony for trying it again, maybe because Sony has little experience in the moving mirror mechanism that other DSLR manufacturers have.

As electronic sensors and displays improve, and they will, I can’t see the mechanical camera lasting too much longer other than as a ‘retro’ model, there are just too many advantages to the EVIL format. Cheaper and easier to manufacture, smaller, lightweight and smaller lenses with huge savings there. Low noise sensors also means you don’t necessarily need an f4 500mm lens to get fast shutter speeds with long lenses, you can use an f8 lens and raise the ISO to compensate with little (if any) noise disadvantage, action, sports and wildlife photography just got a whole lot cheaper, and there’s more to come.

All this means that the electronic companies have the advantage over the established mechanical camera manufacturers such as Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Olympus, Leica etc, an advantage that is likely to widen.

The fly in the ointment for the electronic companies is the shutter mechanism, with sensors as they are a mechanical shutter is still required for fast shutter speeds. Nikon have tried electronic shutters which work fine at the 1/25th or 1/30th of a second for video, but at 1/100th of a second upwards there is a price to pay in the shape of banding when using a mechanical shutter, a problem that Nikon didn’t solve on their D200. They got the fast shutter speed for flash (headline), but it was 2 years before the banding it caused on normal shots was even acknowledged, they only cured it by releasing the D300 which abandoned the electronic shutter. How long it will be before a sensor that can be scanned in 1/8000th of a second is available is anybodies guess, certainly not soon.

Chris

rob answers:

Congratulations on your new camera.

The “kit” lens that came with your camera is a good lens for you at this point in time.

Your main complaint seems to be camera shake. Some practice holding the camera might help. I learned long ago to cradle the camera in my left hand and grip it on the end with my right hand. Look in your Owner’s Manual and you should find a section on holding your camera.

A good option would be a monopod. Its lighter than a tripod and more easily moved about.

Although some may tell you to only buy Canon lenses, don’t overlook lenses by Tamron.

Here are a couple of books that should help you with your photography:

“Hands-On Digital Photography” by George Schaub

“How Digital Photography Works, 2nd. Edition” by Ron White

You should also READ & STUDY the Owner’s Manual for your camera. Just take it one section at a time and practice.

Good luck!

rob answers:

You can consider these beginners cameras
Nikon D3000 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JCSV5I?ie=UTF8&tag=bestdeals-y-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002JCSV5I

Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CBKJGG?ie=UTF8&tag=bestdeals-y-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001CBKJGG

Pentax K-x 12.4 MP Digital SLR Camera
http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_i_0?rh=i%3Aelectronics%2Ck%3Apentax+k-x&tag=bestdeals-y-20&keywords=pentax+k-x&ie=UTF8&qid=1276070340

rob answers:

I have both an S1 and an S2 pro. Color rendition on the Fuji Pro’s is, to say the least, amazing! Most any review you can find on the net will tell you that image quality is superior to most other DSLR’s in the same class and even a few in HIGHER classes. You can’t go wrong with S2. I have done some pretty extensive research on the S3 and S5′s as well. I will eventually upgrade to the S3 but I don’t like the change in body style with the S5 and I have read several reports that say the S5 is fantastic for portraits of people due to it’s skin tone colors but not as good for other types of photography. I would be happy to send you some sample images if you are interested. Just contact me with an email address. Hope this is helpful! Best of luck!

rob answers:

Canon have several nice lenses..it’s so hard to choose.
However, I think you should go for a wider lens next time…

In the EF-S lenses, I like the 10-22mm f3.5-4.5 USM
and the new 17-55mm f2.8 IS USM

Or the EF 24-105mm f4L IS USM…”it is one of the best and most popular Canon general purpose lenses made”.
A perfect walkaround lens.

rob answers:

FYI the D40 from Nikon is even smaller than the XTi/400D so if you think the XTi is small boy the D40 is a hell of a lot smaller.

Yes the 2000 used EF EOS lens so yes you can use your lenses on a Canon Rebel 300D/400D eetc.

rob answers:

The two kit lenses are quite suitable, as everyone here agrees.

You could probably do better by getting a flash head (Speedlite) rather than a lens. Flash is necessary for indoor and night shooting, but can also be used to thwart harsh shadows when shooting in sunlight. So long as she doesn’t stand too close to her subjects, the Speedlite should prove quite useful.

If you absolutely must get a lens, you could try for a ‘prime’ (non-zoom) lens such as the 50mm f/1.4. Prime lenses are often ‘faster’ than zooms and have different optical properties. In certain cases, a prime lens will give a better quality image than a zoom.

rob answers:

No DSLR is going to have such a lens mount; indeed, the last new film cameras with this lens mount were made about 35 years ago.

You can get lens adapters. I use an EOS-to-M42 adapter on my Canon DSLRs so I can use my 1960s Pentax screwmount lenses on them. Accessories, too, like closeup extension tubes. All the usual things apply: manual focus, stop-down metering, a focal length factor, if applicable.

A good lens will take good pictures on a DSLR. A DSLR will also show you exactly how bad a bad lens is.

rob answers:

Go ahead and sell them. There are plenty of people out there who will buy them. I have one Canon DSLR body that I use with an adapter. Those old FD lenses are a huge money saver. Love ‘em. And I sometimes prefer them. Having a manual focus lens makes me feel like I’m still a real photographer from the days when you actually had to know about things like focus and exposure.

rob answers:

I do not think there is any reason to fear Tamron lenses, they are a well respected independent lens maker. I listed a link to Tamron’s website in case you are interested and one to Sigma who is a respected independent lens maker.

With all that being said, There are plenty of very good deals to be found where you can get a Canon DSLR with one or two Canon lenses and I would not blame you if favor that path.

Below I also included some links to dealers websites so you can find a good deal.

Good luck. Hope this helps.

Mark

rob answers:

Shaun T – really? You didn’t hear that Canon had defective material, and then they only told customers about it 2 years later?

I am a “nikoner” as they say.

rob answers:

Weird noises don’t sound good.

I’m assuming you probably have one of the Rebels. Try to put the mode on the green box. It may be on P, or Tv or something else. The green box is a fully automatic mode, not something I normally recommend but it is about as bulletproof as you can get if you are not sure what you are doing. You need to be sure your battery is charged, and that you have a memory card in the camera.

Read the manual that another person posted – it will be your biggest help.

rob answers:

Yes, you can use your old lenses.

rob answers:

Kathy,
Both brands are awesome. However, Nikon Is the best on the market at the moment with their new D90 Model offering12.2 mega pix and 720 HD video. The D90 makes a big splash in the mid/professional level. It comes with a kit lens(usually the 18mm -105mm). Cannon has some great features as well but still no hd video ability and is priced lower than Nikon. In camera editing ability are better in a nikon and download shareability is a little easier with cannon(espically when using raw format, Nikon needs special software to edit pictures taken in raw)
I have included several links. The 3rd link gives a realy nice review on both cameras.

rob answers:

Sorry no, they are not compatible in any way. If you or anyone else maybe interested in a New F-1 (Canon) 35mm with Power Winder FN, get in touch with me. I also have a 28-135 zoom (Canon mount).

rob answers:

There may be something on your Sensor. Or inside your lenses.

rob answers:

I am a nikon person and have had nikons since the 70′s I personally think the nikon D40 give you more for the dollar than any DSLR today. There are some that do more but you pay a good bit more. Do not let the lower megapixels concern you if you do not do very very large prints you will never notice the lower DSLR. My brother recently needs a DSLR for a class and I recommended the D40 to him So I would also say get the D40 not the D40X. The Nikon D40 does not have limited functions compared with other entry DSLR. Yes it has fewer funtioncas than a 1500 dollar camera body would. It is not a a cut down version its equal or above most any entry level DSLR.

I have a d300 and a d40 and when I am shooting for fun I grabe the d40. Its weightless, a joy to use and gives good results

If you have a bit more money the D60 give you a number of things you want. It has newer firmware and image processors, designed for the 10 mp sensor. It has an “Active Dust Reduction System with Airflow Control “. Nikon not putting a system on the D40 to deal with dust is one of the biggest drawbacks I see to the D40 ( though I think its still a great camera for the money) If you change lenses dust will get in and the camera needs a system to deal with it. With the D60 you get a VR lens. That will help with low light situations ( they may offer that now with the D40 but originally it was not) . The D60 has Adaptive Dynamic Range. Nikon calls it “Active D-Lighting,” it lets you save some highlights that my otherwise be lost. It has a newer better metering system than the D40. So you can get the D40 not the D40 x and spend the other money on lenses or a flash

Some people will want to make a big issue out of the fact that there are some nikon lenses that will not autofocus on these cameras. Right now there are “only” about 39 lenses that autofocus on these cameras. They cover the range of focal lengths. I doubt any photographer would be seriously limited with “only” this many lenses to choose from. If you want to manually focus you can more than double this and do so at a low cost. Manual focusing is easy and how we did things for decades before the advent of autofocus.

Cannon and Nikon chose to put the vibration reduction in the lens rather than the body. Somefolks put it in the camera and make of that. Yes that means you get stabilization only on lenses with that feature built in. In the body in theory it would work on every lens. But in fact image stbilization in the lens has proved to work faster and smoother with a lower impact on focus times than image stabilization in the body

In closing all the major manyfactures make good cameras. With Nikon and Canon having the largest market share. Most photographers are loyal to what they use and like. Go to the stores get them in your hand and find what you like. What fits your hand well, which has the features you want in an easy to use format

I hope this helps

rob answers:

The lenses for your EOS 35mm Canon will work just fine on your Digital EOS Canon. Just be aware that the sensor chip on the digital cameras are smaller than 35mm. Because of this, the effective focal length of each lens is multiplied by a factor of 1.5.

For example, a 50mm lens used on a Canon DSLR will give you the view of a 75mm lens. An 80-200mm becomes a 120-300mm.

To see the actual effect, bring your old Canon and your lenses into a camera store. You should be able to try your lenses on the display digital Canons and see the effect, as well as check the compatibility.
I hope this helps.

rob answers:

All EF lenses are compatible with Canon Digital SLR cameras..as well as EF-S lenses.

rob answers:

WOW…never heard of that happening before. I did some checking and there is nothing in regards to people having issues with the BG-E5 and the T1i/500D.

How far off is the alignment? If it is very slight, it sounds like the cameras frame got bent.

I would suggest contacting Canon on this. Canon… +44 (0)844 369 0100 Monday to Friday from 9:00AM to 5:30PM

rob answers:

I dont think any of the camera can meet your requirements. The video part of DSLR is not that good as you think. The major problem is the focusing issue, there is no auto focus. Other issue is the battery life and memory size. 1 hr HD seems not fit for most DSLR capacity. If I were you, I will pick a SONY HD Camorder for about 2-300 dollars, those can take much better video quality and fit your need.

rob answers:

The way you decide what shutter speed, lens aperture and ISO is to use the cameras light meter.

What you have linked us to is called light graffiti. This is what you need to produce such images

* your 500D
* a tripod
* a remote shutter release
* set the shutter to bulb and lock open the shutter using the remote shutter release
* use a light emitting device like a penlight, LED or light stick
* adjust the lens aperture to control the saturation of colour

I don’t understand why you think you have to be experienced to use ANY technique.

All you have to is do some research when attempting something new.

Yahoo Search is a good tool for finding such techniques.

rob answers:

There is an issue with the 500D in that it only shoot HD at 20fps. Which will cause you no end of issues in post. The Canon T2i (550D) will shoot 24fps, which will integrate well with any of the current editing programs and you wont need to add frames in post.

People really have to get over this Emulsion based film thing. Yes 35mm looks great but most film makers cant afford to shoot on it and as I’ve said before, everything goes to a digital intermediate anyway, so by shooting digital you’re taking out a step of the process.

We’ve shot two features on DSLR’s and our next feature will be shot on a Panasonic AG-AF100. Saying Panasonic isn’t a Camera company shows a lack of understanding of what they’ve been up to for the last few decades. The AG-AF100 allows us to mount any lens package we can think of on the body and has a true 35mm sized sensor, so we won’t be having the same issues we’ve had in the past shooting on the 5D Mk2 or the 7D.

rob answers:

I don’t know that particular camera but it does have live view.

Maybe this will help:

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos500d/page9.asp

If you look at the text in the first paragraph you will see where it says this:
Live View can only be used in the ‘Creative Zone’ exposure modes (P, Tv, Av, M and A-DEP); however A-DEP becomes identical in behaviour to program mode (P).

This means that you can’t use live view in the automatic modes. You can use the P mode if you aren’t ready to use the other creative modes. It operates just like the Auto mode except that you can change some of the settings while in that mode that you can’t change in auto.

Edit-Live view has its advantages. While I do think that you can get the best composition by using the viewfinder there are times when live view can come in handy. For instance, when shooting over a crowd you can use the LCD to compose your shot. You are shooting blind without live view in that situation. But I also think that live view isn’t necessary. Just an added bonus for those few occasions when it is useful.

It is amazing that in one breath beginners are told to learn every control on their camera and in the next breath are told that they aren’t worthy if they use particular functions of the camera. Many beginners with DSLR are coming from a P&S that had live view as its only way of composing each shot. Give them some time and they will learn to love the viewfinder.

rob answers:

I like canon Compact cameras more then I do Nikon, but in the DSLR run, Canon and Nikon are basically the exact same in every way. Its like Coke v. Pepsi. You have people that like Canon, and you have people that like Nikon

Either way, you will have to buy the camera and an extra lens or two for the macro and the portraits

you will have to tell us a budget for all the equipment, because the cheapest you can make it is about $1000 for what you want to do.

If you are a beginner, you can look at the Nikon D3000, D5000, and D3100 and the Canon Rebel Xs, T1i, and T2i. All of these are under $1000 with one lens

if you are more intermediate, the Nikon D7000 is a great camera, followed by the D300s. And these two are $1500-$1800 with a single lens.

As for lenses, this is a good all-around lens that can do portraits somewhat and can do macro

http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/2190/AF-S-DX-Micro-NIKKOR-85mm-f%252F3.5G-ED-VR.html

Canon has their equivalent

then you have probably the best portrait lens:

http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/2180/AF-S-NIKKOR-50mm-f%252F1.4G.html

along with another macro lens.

rob answers:

Canon recently announced the new Rebel T2i (550D), and will be releasing it in a few months. If you want really good video quality along with image quality then you might want to wait and get the T2i. If not, then maybe wait until the T2i has been out for a little while, and the price on the T1i (500D) might drop a bit.

rob answers:

You seem to be familiar with the difference between the 2 types of cameras, so I’d imagine you also are aware of the kind of shots you will want. Personally, I’d go For the Canon Rebel. If you haven’t already be sure to check the reviews & prices on Amazon before making a choice. The 2011 models are just starting to be released now & you can get some great deals on the older models. The XS isn’t the most current model out now for Canon. The T3i was released very recently it has 18 megapixels & a price to match. Whatever you get be certain that it allows you to expand for the future with additional lenses & accessories.

The digital SLRs or Dslrs, as they are known will provide plenty of future flexibility. The digital units or point & shoot cameras, you mention are what you will live with, since the lens they come with is the only lens they’ll ever have.

rob answers:

Amazon is legit.

Don’t buy it at any of these rip-off scam sites that are owned by George Sabato:

www.bestpricecameras.com
www.photodynasty.com
www.beststopcamera.com
www.citywidedigital.com
www.eastcoastdistributor.com
www.hellocamera.com
www.infiniticameras.com
www.infinitiphoto.com
www.infinitycameras.com
www.jandkcameras.com
www.mraccessory.com
www.razzphoto.com
www.regencycamera.com

Check out how many Better Business Bureau complaints there are (1000+). He keeps changing names to avoid ripped-off customers and to trick new customers.

Http://search.newyork.bbb.org/reports.aspx?id=12668&pid=44&page=0&FindStr=photodynasty.com&SearchBy=company&Address=&City=&Phone1=&Phone2=&Phone3=&MembersOnly=False

rob answers:

Canon & Nikon are the top guns. They offer plenty on lenses as do other 3rd parties.

But don’t buy it at any of these rip-off scam sites that are owned by George Sabato:

www.bestpricecameras.com
www.photodynasty.com
www.beststopcamera.com
www.citywidedigital.com
www.eastcoastdistributor.com
www.hellocamera.com
www.infiniticameras.com
www.infinitiphoto.com
www.infinitycameras.com
www.jandkcameras.com
www.mraccessory.com
www.razzphoto.com
www.regencycamera.com

Check out how many Better Business Bureau complaints there are (1000+). He keeps changing names to avoid ripped-off customers and to trick new customers.

Http://search.newyork.bbb.org/reports.aspx?id=12668&pid=44&page=0&FindStr=photodynasty.com&SearchBy=company&Address=&City=&Phone1=&Phone2=&Phone3=&MembersOnly=False

rob answers:

Better to shoot in colour & convert to B&W on a computer (saving the conversion under a different file name) – that way you’ve got all the colour data should you, at some point in the future, need it.

B&W conversion should not look ‘flat’, not if they’re done properly. Rather than just desaturate (worst case) or do an Auto B&W conversion (next worse), use a dedicated B&W converter plug-in or at least adjust the RGB channels to get some contrast.

rob answers:

You may find this hard to believe but the full moon can be successfully photographed at f16 with a shutter speed of 1/ISO. So if you set your camera to ISO 200 you will get good exposures at f16 @ 1/200 sec.
This is because the moon is a sun lit object so photographing it is no different than photographing a meadow in full sun. You might want to try one at f16 @ 1/200 sec. At 0 EV and then one at -1/2 EV and one at -1 EV. So put your camera in Aperture Priority and set your metering to “Partial 9% at center” if you want to use the EV function. If you decide to shoot in Manual and want to use -EV then you can adjust the shutter speed (1/150 sec. Or 1/100 sec.).

To get really good moon pictures you need at least a 300mm focal length lens.

rob answers:

I just knew that someone would say to read the manual. And that is great advice. You should definitely read it-about twenty times and then it might start to make sense.

Trust me, I understand. When I got my first SLR, the manual didn’t make any sense to me. It tells you how to adjust the settings, but gives you no reasoning for what settings you should use and when to use them.

I bought a cheap book about photography and when I started to understand what the aperture and shutter speeds are, what they do, and how they work together, the manual that came with the camera finally started making sense.

Just about any book that explains expposure in an understandable way is going to help you a lot. But if you search amazon or ebay you should also find guides specifically for the xs.

Good luck finding what you need and enjoy shooting!

rob answers:

Canon Speedlite, 430EX II – $300

rob answers:

Yes, that is what buying a camera system is all about. Interchangeability

rob answers:

Optical zoom means what the lens can provide. There is also digital zoom, but ignore that, it’s worthless. 12 megapixel is good. Although the quality of the camera and the lens is more important than to have a high megapixel number.

Body means just the camera body without a lens. If you don’t have any Canon lens already, you should buy a package body+lens.

I have a Canon Ixus myself. Fantastic camera! For SLR, Digital Rebel is a really good choice!

rob answers:

Yes, you’ll need a lens if you want pictures to be decently sharp and in focus.

No, you don’t need the giant lenses you see other pros use to take pictures. Those really large lenses are known as “telephoto” lenses and are used to take pictures of things far away. Professional telephoto lens can easily cost thousands of dollars.

Most beginner DSLRs come in a kit with a 18-55mm lens. This lens will be decent enough until you grasp the basics and realize the limitations of the 18-55mm lens. Professional zoom lenses will cost over $1000, so a basic 18-55mm lenses obviously isn’t as good, but it’s good enough to take good quality photos.

rob answers:

Glad to see that someone has actually done some research before asking a question here. Yes, the T3 is better. It is a newer model so has better and improved features. It has a significantly larger screen, shoots movies, larger viewfinder, better maximum light sensitivity, higher true resolution, slightly lower noise at high ISO, slightly more dynamic range and is lighter. It also fits your budget perfectly. Read this review to aid in your decision:

http://www.amazon.com/review/R161SUZUDT3WP1/ref=cm_cr_pr_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B004J3Y9U6&nodeID=&linkCode=&sourceid=md.ds&tag=famaeim-20

You can find a good deal for it here:

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-Rebel-T3-Digital-18-55mm/dp/B004J3Y9U6/ref=cm_rdp_product&sourceid=md.ds&tag=famaeim-20

I don’t know where you’ve looked but i found the 1000d to be a tad cheaper than the T3. Take a look at its price here:

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-XS-Digital-18-55mm-Black/dp/B001CBKJGG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1324343389&sr=1-1&sourceid=md.ds&tag=famaeim-20

Hope this helps. Happy Holidays!

rob answers:

I’d buy what I know i needed just for now. The bare basics. A friend of mine was in your same situation and he spent a lot of extra money on things he never used for his camera. And idk about now but you could probably find a really good camera from amazon or obviously ebay. Good Luck!

rob answers:

Hi, i use canon but i did a little research on the S2 and i found everything you need, just click on the link bellow and you could even see and download pictures samples of that camera, have fun…

rob answers:

Actually the XS doesn’t shoot video. I know, I own one. Can it be used as a webcam I have no clue.
Why don’t you just shoot with your web cam – oh the quality I get it. Hey try it, it might work.

rob answers:

Hi,

Sorry – you must have the charger.

Try ebay, or Amazon, for a compatible one or your local photo store for the Canon version.

Couple of sample links below.

Be aware that using the wrong charger could cause the battery to explode!! I would always recommend the canon version to be certain.

Cheers
Charles

rob answers:

I own an XS and it does everything but suck. Where did you hear that and who’ve you been listening too. Any camera is what you make of it. Everything you do with it depends on your skills. You can make art with an XS and you can make junk with it or any other $5,000 camera – it’s all in your skill.

No, the XS is an excellent camera.

rob answers:

Hey,

Absolutely. It was great when it came out and still is. It has no useless features, isn’t heavy and is 100% made for photography.

Zoom depends on the lens. You get the basic 18-55 kit lens which goes from wide to standard (aka enough zoom).

Here’s a post called ‘Buying a DSLR, what’s important, megapixels, features, brand, price, quality and which one to buy – http://www.the-dslr-photographer.com/2009/03/which-dslr-to-buy.html

Good luck! The site has many more tutorials, tips, reviews and guides!

rob answers:

Hi Chase,

The shutter speed can be changes in Tv mode. Tv mode will let you change the shutter speed (scroll wheel) and the camera will adjust all of the other values for you manually (as far as it can). Manual mode (M) gives you control over everything.

Av mode will give you control over your aperture, and I think it is slightly more popular than Tv mode for general shooting. A low aperture value will likely automatically give you the fastest available shutter speed in that situation. Also remember you can increase your ISO to get a faster shuter speed (at the cost of extra noise).

I hope this helps,

John

http://www.flickr.com/johnhanam

rob answers:

I used to use a housing with my 35mm on photo dives. Most housings are pricy. Additionally most of your better pictures are obtained from shallower depths. I.E. Lighting and color is not degraded. Although I’m a Nikon fan, Olympus makes a VERY interesting compact 7.1MP camera that takes video as well as stills. This camera is waterproof down to 33′ and cost less than $ 400.00. Heres the link

http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/product.asp?product=1287

rob answers:

The XTi is an excellent entry level DSLR. I have one and have thoroughly enjoyed this camera, since the first shot. That being said…

Canon shooters will tell you to “buy Canon” and Nikon shooters will tell you to “buy Nikon”. Before you buy anything, go to http://dpreview.com and compare the cameras you are interested in, side by side, and read the reviews.

Think about the availability and cost of additional lenses and other gear, when you buy a DSLR, you are buying into a system of lenses and other accessories.

Then, before you buy, go to a real camera store, (not Best Buy or Wal Mart) and handle the different cameras, try them with different lenses in the store, and buy the one which feels best to you.

(you also may want to consider waiting until mid April for the Canon XSi to come out, the kit lens has image stability)

rob answers:

All of the major brands are good. Choose a brand that appeals to you. Then you have to think about getting a spare battery, what size memory card, if you want an extended warranty, how much you can afford, what size zoom, if you want manual controls, the size of the camera, finding a reliable place to purchase it, and the list goes on and on and on…….

The first thing to realize is that almost any digital camera will take good pictures. If more people would read the manual more than once, they would be able to take better pictures. Usually, the person assumes it is the camera when it could be them not knowing exactly what to do. Just give yourself more photographic knowledge by doing more reading on the internet.

I really believe buying a camera is an individual choice.
The person needs to read alot of reviews on cameras so they can decide on the features that they really want and need.
Go to the store and hold them so you can see if they feel comfortable in your hands. If possible, take some pictures in the store to check the quality of the pictures.
I can only give a suggestion of what to look for in a new digital camera.
Good Luck

my suggestion
go to this link for help
http://reviews.cnet.com/digital-camera-buying-guide/

rob answers:

I have a rebel but bought a better model sometimes they have sales where they include a better lens, I have 2 extra lens a wide angle also bought a flash, the more you spend the more it does but most have the same starter lens and after using it you will find the limitations and want a better one it is worth getting and if you keep the same brand the lens can be used over and over so the money not down the drain so far cross my finger they not change it

rob answers:

Any of the entry-level dSLRs from Nikon (D40, older D50) or Canon (Digital Rebel XTi–which is really 10 Mpix– or the order XT) are fine for entry level amateur photography. I’d stay away from Sony, Olympus, or Pentax, as they don’t have as much lens support as Nikon or Canon do.

However, if you’re not planning on buying any extra lenses, or just plan on buying the cheap (<$250) consumer lenses, look at a super-zoom non-dSLR digicam instead. You generally still get the "fancy" shooting modes of aperture priority, shutter priority, and manual as you would in any (d)SLR. SLRs are meant for people who are going to need to change lenses on a regular basis, and know why they need to change lenses (hint: it's not just for focal length a.k.a. "zoom"). This will save you several hundred dollars, and you'll probably be just as happy.

Also, dSLRs are really designed to require (yes, require) post-processing in Photoshop or equivalent. If you're the type to take the memory card to Walgreens, Wal-Mart, Target, or wherever when it's full and just print, you're missing half of the equation that you need with a dSLR.

Of course, if you have your mind made up that you want (or need) a dSLR, I'd go with a Canon XT or XTi. The extra 2 Mpix of the XTi isn't really all that necessary, and the older XT will save you some cash.

John (AKA the "Grumpy Photographer" as someone named me once)

rob answers:

Hey,

I don’t know where you heard that but it’s not possible. The 7D has this option, all other EOS cameras don’t. However, just look on dealextreme or ebay for Jianisi/Yongnuo PT-04TM, this costs 30$ and works very well; I have them for my 430EX II.

rob answers:

I own a Rebel XS – same as the XSi and SD is correct or SDHC

rob answers:

In the world of DSLR’s the “normal” memory card was the CF. Recently in a move to attract users of P&S cameras which us for the most part SD / SDHC cards, many of the new cameras in this category use the same cards as the P&S cameras.

That said, your XSi will use either SD (up to 2 GB) or SDHC (4 GB and up)

rob answers:

To maximise noise:

Be sure that the camera’s noise reduction is off (custom functions menu options 3&4)
Set ISO as high as possible

You need to get a looooooooong exposure so:
Use Av mode
Set aperture to F22 or smaller if you can
Put on neutral density filter and/or polarising filter
Don’t shoot in full daylight – go at dawn, dusk or night or take indoor with as low light as possible.
Don’t use flash

Oh! Nearly forgot! Put the camera on a tripod!

rob answers:

I cant comment on the d60, but the XSi has a top shutter speed of 1/4000 of a second (faster than you’ll ever need)

and can shoot at 3.5 FPS (which is pretty average)

it goes up to ISO 1600 for clean shots in low light or using fast speeds,

it also focus pretty quickly with the kit lens, and instantaneously with a canon USM lens.

IS will help you with panning and camera shake

rob answers:

A lens has to be of quality. If anything will do then just use anything.

Here are some choices.
Http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_2_18?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=fisheye+lens+canon&sprefix=fisheye+lens+canon

rob answers:

Time stamp was a feature of 35 mm cameras.

Now ALL your image files have the time and date in the EXIF data on each file … That and much, much more.

Why would you want to put that on a perfectly fine image?

rob answers:

I would suggest Nikon or Canon brand for Digital SLR camera.They have more lens and accessories choice which good for future upgrade.

Both Nikon D3000 and Canon XSi are good choice. Canon XSi come with a bit better features.If you can afford, it is a good choice.

Http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012YA85A?ie=UTF8&tag=computer0bd-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0012YA85A

but if you want to save $100 then Nikon D3000 are good choice.
Http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JCSV5I?ie=UTF8&tag=computer0bd-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002JCSV5I

rob answers:

Jim is correct, there is not a “new version” of the XSi/450D. Camera manufacturers assign new numbers to cameras as the models change.

It is great that you want to buy him a camera, BUT it is not something I recommend. As my wife says “I’ll buy you a gun, but I will NOT buy you camera gear. That is a personal preference”. You could take him out to “lunch” for his birthday and after that put a blindfold on him to take him to his next surprise (a local camera shop) so that he can pick out his gift (believe me, he will be just as thrilled that way…think “kid in a candy store”).

I would suggest that you figure out your TOTAL budget (camera/lens, memory cards, extra battery, padded case, and taxes) first. For example: $1200 Total…$120 for tax,$75 for several memory cards, $50 extra battery, $75 padded case…would leave about $880 for camera/lens.

rob answers:

It’s on page number 75 on your manual.i own a canon eos 450d a.k.a eos xsi.you can read how to set it to bulb exposures.that’s the beauty of the manual because all the things you want to know about the functions of your camera is there…goodluck on your shoot..oh and you need a tripod when using bulb as well as you are opening your shutter for long periods of time.

rob answers:

Don’t know about that particular page, but here’s an excellent guide to how a DSLR works:

http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/digital-camera.htm

rob answers:

Flash system is quite dangerous, there can often be some rather large charges stored in the capacitors for a flash. It should be done professionally by Canon.

I would recommend just buying a low cost ETTL compatible flashgun. A Yongnuo YN465 for Canon is probably cheaper than a repair by Canon.

rob answers:

You may be able to get a small discount getting 2 of them but I would also shop around and see who has the best deals. Being in the US, I am not sure where is best to shop where you live.

The 550D is a brand new Canon model and so discounts will be tougher to find since it is in high demand.

Below I listed some places that I have shopped from and gotten good deals.

Hope this helps.

Mark

rob answers:

Will they give you a better price even if the store isn’t in Austrailia? B&H (in NY, USA) doesn’t carry the two lens kit but with the 18-55mm lens the price is $749 USD which is about $815 AU. The second lens can’t cost more than about $250 USD which is about $275 AU. That means that you could buy the camera and one lens kit and the other lens for $1090 AU. That isn’t even accounting for the discount that you should receive buying the two lens kit rather than buying it separately.

So yes they are asking way too much. It should be more like $1000 AU.

Http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/613613-REG/Canon_3818B002_EOS_Rebel_T1i_500D_.html

rob answers:

Rather than depend upon us or your not so successful “trail and fail” method, you may want to consider taking a class in photography. In a short time, you will get all your questions answered and will not find photography as frustrating as you do now.

Whether shooting film, JPEG or RAW, the techniques are the same for shooting various subjects.

For water falls that look like cotton, you have to use a long shutter speed … This means you also have to use a tripod and probably an ND filter even if the falls are in the shade.

Portraits are a whole different ball game … You need to use a medium telephoto lens and shoot wide open … But wait! What is most important when shooting portraits is the way you light it

For interesting lighting ideas, look at Model Mayhem and One Model Place.

rob answers:

Which one is the most outdated? If it were me I would go for the camera upgrade just because those are changing so fast meaning your old one is probably more outdated than your vista laptop. I wouldn’t go with a point and shoot though, get the Rebel T2i instead, the larger sensor will make a huge difference in picture quality. The mass market’s demand for zoom capability drives the manufacturers to put ever smaller sensors in point and shoots sacrificing image quality in exchange for zoom capability. An XLR doesn’t do that and thus it has a much larger sensor. Many of the new digital cameras also do video too. I’m planning to get the T2i specifically for video.

rob answers:

Would you want to carry it everywhere? Convenience is important.

rob answers:

There is no such thing as a good, cheap lens of any kind.

You can find some add-on lenses that cost less than $100, but they will not really be a fisheye in that they cannot cover a full 180 degrees of view. What they do, instead, is introduce huge amounts of pincushion distortion making the images appear at first look, to be shot with a fisheye, but upon further inspection, it will be evident that there has been little or no additional view angel using it.

If you really want a fisheye lens, save your pennies until you can afford something like the Tokina 10-17 mm fisheye zoom.

While Canon used to make a fine 15 mm EF fisheye lens, your camera will not see the fisheye effect as only the center 22.2 x 14.8 mm (3.28 cm²) of the 36 x 24 mm (8.64 cm²) coverage of the lens will be recorded.

rob answers:

From Canon’s own website, the Rebel XS “…Excellent performance with 3.0 fps continuous shooting and burst rate up to 514 Large JPEGs (until memory card is full)…”

This means that the camera body is limited to 3fps. You won’t be able to gain any further frames per second due to the limitation of the camera hardware.

rob answers:

This is one of the most common question that gets asked here on YA about the Most Basic Camera Operation.

Yet Another Person Who Hasn’t Figured Out The Concept of Reading the Owners Manual Yet or even Looking Online for the Owners Manual

Rule # 1 – Read the Owners Manual

Rule # 2 – Read the Owners Manual

Rule # 3 – Read the Owners Manual

Rule # 4 – Try Picking Up and START READING THE OWNERS MANUAL Because So Many Basic Camera Operation Can Be Found in the Owners Manual Only if You Actually Attempted To Read The Owners Manual