rob answers:

Agreed, it’s likely because the card was never formatted. But, you should easily be able to recover your photos with recovery software, and then format the card to prevent this from happening again. Take no more pics until you’ve recovered the photos, and take the memory card out of the camera. This is to reduce the chance of you overwriting some of your “lost” photos. There are many good freeware photo recovery software options that may help you recover your photos. This article reviews and outlines several of the better ones:
http://camerarepair.blogspot.com/2007/12/recovering-those-accidentally-lost.html

rob answers:

Both Canon & Nikon cameras are excellent brands so either one would be a good choice. Other quality brands with affordable DSLRs include Olympus, Pentax & Sony.

My preference is for Olympus, a smaller, more innovative company that makes very good quality cameras with superior quality “kit” (basic, low cost lenses) compared to most other brands. Their E510 model has Image Stabilization (IS), Dust Control and Live View on a 2.5″ size display screen. I do not know the Euro price but US $ price with 14mm-42mm lens is about $550 or with two lens kit which also includes a 40-150mm lens (more telephoto capabilities) for about $650.

This compares to US $560 for the camera you are looking at which is an older (I believe discontinued) model.

Here is a link to a fairly unbiased review of the Olympus camera.

Http://www.steves-digicams.com/2007_reviews/e510.html

You can find reviews of many other camera models by clicking on the Review Menu button at the bottom of the page on this link. Note that some camera models are not available in all areas of the world or may have different model names. Canon, in particular, uses various model names for the same camera in different markets.

You may also check out the following site designed mainly for first time DSLR buyers.

Http://www.digital-slr-guide.com/index.html

Hope that helps.
You can email me if you have specific questions about your choices.

Good luck.

rob answers:

Well if family/friends have a brand that you can borrow lenses from time to time, look at that brand first. Your investment will be in lenses not bodies. I would also suggest one body for the moment, but if you are going to do weddings, you need 2 of just about everything (except some lenses). The biggest brands are (in order) Canon, Nikon, Sony (Sony bought Minolta). Any new camera from the big 3 will give you good results (99% of cameras are better than 99% of photographers).

I would also suggest getting a fast 50mm lens (f/1.8 or f/1.4). They are generally cheap to buy (canon f/1.8 is about $100) You can do a lot with them and get great looking photos pretty easily. It will also help you learn hands on quicker in my opinion.

rob answers:

Here is a link that compares the XSi to the Nikon D60

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/eng/Image-Quality-Database/Compare-cameras/(appareil1)/196%7C0/(appareil2)/185%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Nikon/(brand2)/Canon#33

As you can see, in the areas that most specifically describe the potential quality of the images, Colour depth, Dynamic range and Low-light ISO performance are the most important, NOT the number of pixels on the sensor

If you are planning to shoot a lot in low light, remember that there are programs that can reduce any slight image noise you would experience using any camera at high ISO’s

rob answers:

That sounds like a good choice to me.
Here is some more general info for you to keep in mind:

Any of the entry level DSLRs would keep you happy for a few years. I’d pick either Canon or Nikon. I have a LOT of contact with other photographers and time and time again it seems that either one of those are most likely to make their owners happy.

The most important part is to buy only the best lenses – camera bodies get upgraded, lenses stay with us.
You WILL regret buying cheap lenses.
Don’t rush into buying lenses. Start with a kit lens, get to know your camera, that lens, and all photographic principles.
Through time and through use, you will eventually KNOW what other lenses you’ll need/want.
The more time you’ll take, the less likely you are to regret your choices.

If you know anyone close to you with a camera, consider borrowing lenses and “picking their brain” about their camera and whatever else they know.

Go to a store and hold a few cameras, see how they feel to YOU.

Do lots of research before you buy, and start learning about photography, too.

Keep in mind that buying a DSLR isn’t cheap, even if you find a good deal for body and kit lens.

You’ll also want and/or need a few other things such as tripod, filters, a bag, sensor cleaning gear, a second battery, memory cards, perhaps a remote shutter release etc.

That’s just the small stuff – I can guarantee you that you’ll also want more and more lenses.
You’ll also want a decent flash some day.

See how that list just goes on and on?
Owning a DSLR isn’t cheap – at least not until you have built up a nice stash of gear.

Just some food for thought……..

rob answers:

All you need to know about a Rebel XS

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_xs_18_55is_kit

Usually going to the source is the best way to do research

Here is another option: Full HD video and auto-focus in the video mode

http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Digital-SLR-Cameras/25472/D3100.html

rob answers:

In your case absolutely not. For that money you’d be much better off with a high end point and shoot such as a Canon G series. These cameras have near SLR functionality and their image quality is great.

The reason I’m saying this is that the 18-55mm lens is a “kit lens”. It’s designed specifically to be thrown in with a camera at little cost to Canon. It’s build quality is cheap, it’s optical quality is poor, and it actually ends up being a 29mm-88mm due to crop factor, which is not particularly impressive compared to a high end point and shoot.

If you want to buy an SLR be prepared to spend a few thousand dollars on good quality zoom lenses in the focal lengths you plan to use, or buy fixed focal (no zoom) length lenses that will still run you hundreds of dollars each.

rob answers:

From the ones you listed, without doubt the Canon Rebel. Personally I prefer the Nikon D70s to the Rebel though.
If you have some more money, go for the Nikon D200 though. It’s a beaut, but expensive for someone just starting out.

Go with the Nikon D70s. You can’t go wrong. Just remember to get a couple of lenses as well.

rob answers:

Check out http://www.tipsfromthefloor.com by Christopher Marquardt. Great Podcasts, good amount of information on how to take pictures, and a really nice forum with many members in Europe – esp. In the UK.

rob answers:

That means that it cannot be used on any of the 1D or 5D series Canon cameras

The APS-C sensored Canon’s are the all the Rebel dSLR’s, the x0D series and the 7D.

rob answers:

You can go even smaller and lighter with something that is almost a dSLR, Panasonic’s new G1. It’s lighter than everything else http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/DMCG1/DMCG1A.HTM

I’m not a huge fan of it, but I have to admit that the picture quality is better than any point and shoot regardless of price. But the cost of the body and lenses will be higher than going with the Canon XS, Nikon d40 or Sony Alpha A200.

rob answers:

First let’s get something clear. It’s not the manufacturer that matters but the mount. Even if it’s made by Sigma or Tamron, if a lens is specified to have a Canon mount then it will fit on your camera.
Other than that, even if you find a lens that sounds cool to you but doesn’t have a Canon mount, chances are there are adaptors there that will help the lens fit. However, this practice isn’t usually worth the effort since this way you will probably lose some of the lens’ features (usually autofocus is lost, as the camera can’t communicate with the lens on a different mount).
My advice is: don’t jump to the biggest lens you can afford unless you know you’ll stick to wildlife. Fast and long lenses are generally expensive, anything under $500 is probably usable only in bright light outdoors.
As for the camera choice, 400D is great for a starters, I would advise you to check out Pentax’s K10D. For a little more you’ll have a sturdy camera resistant to water and dust, more solid body. The loss will be in image quality at ISO over 600 and that is because the image in the K10D is made to be processed and used in editing, therefore there is less processing in the camera (400D’s image processor makes a jpg image hardly usable in editing).
I worked with both cameras and eventually chose the Pentax (my advantage however is that I live in East Europe and here we have many private lens manufacturers that build amazing custom glass for Pentax mount, inexpensive but great quality).

rob answers:

All of these have got it wrong, the best DSLR is the Hasselblad H3DII-50

http://www.hasselbladusa.com/products/h-system/h3dii-50.aspx

It’s sensor is double the since of any mere full frame camera, and it has 50 megapixels.

There’s alot of best lenses for various situations depending on what you’re shooting precisely and what you’re shooting. I’ve heard that the 135 F2 L and the 70-200 L are excellent for shooting people for Canon. And a normal lens is usually a 50mm equivalent so a 50mm on a full frame, 80? On a medium format, and less on a crop body though you might prefer to carry around something a little wider on a day to day basis. Or a zoom.

rob answers:

You already have two excellent answers, but I have this one in the can at all times, so here you go. My answer adds a little visual aid.

There is not a lens-to-distance equation. If we are talking about a “35 mm equivalent,” a 50 mm focal length is approximately “normal” view without any magnification. For most DSLR’s, the lens factor of 1.5-1.6 means a “normal” focal length would be about 31-33 mm. If we go back to a 50 mm “normal” lens then, a 100 mm lens would be a “2 power” lens, 200 mm would be 4X, and so on.

Just divide the smaller number into the bigger number and you get the “X” power of the lens. For instance, a 35-80 mm lens is 2.3X zoom. Divide 80 by 35 and you’ll get the result. 35-80 mm lens is 2.3X zoom. Divide 80 by 35 and you’ll get the result.

It is usually better to know what the focal length of a lens in “35 mm equivalent” is and judge by that, rather than relying on the “X” power of the lens. For instance, most point and shoot cameras start at about 35 mm and have either a 3X or 4X zoom. This would make it a 35-105 or a 35-140. I’ve seen some that start at 28 mm, though. A 3X starting at 28 mm is 28-84 and a 4X is 28-112. Neither one is a particularly strong telephoto lens and the 4X is just about the same as the 3X that starts out at 35 mm.

It’s also important to realize that tradition dictates that lens focal lengths are usually expressed in terms of “35 mm equivalent,” where “35 mm” refers to a 35 mm film camera. This is because of the relation between the sensor size and the actual focal length of the lens and the resultant angle of view of the lens.

I have one point & shoot that is actually a 5.8-24 mm zoom. This is a 4X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 28-116 mm. The sensor is 7.2×5.3 mm. (1/1.8″) (And I wish I knew someone who could explain how the heck they came up with sensor size terminology!)

I have another point & shoot that is actually a 5.7-17.1 mm zoom. This is a 3X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 34-102 mm. “How could a shorter focal length give a longer 35 mm equivalent?” you might ask. It’s because the sensor is only about 5×4 mm. (1/2.5″)

I have a few Nikon DSLR’s and – thankfully – they all have the same size sensor. They all have a “lens factor” of 1.5. This means that you just multiply the actual focal length of the lens to get the 35 mm equivalent and then you can make comparisons accurately from camera-to-camera. Most Canon’s, for instance, have a lens factor of 1.6. On a Nikon DSLR, a 28 mm lens is the “35 mm equivalent” of a 42 mm lens. On most Canon DSLR’s, the same 28 mm lens is the equivalent of a 45 mm lens.

These example are just to show you how freaking confusing it can all become if you try to make sense of the “X” power of a zoom lens.

Bottom line…

Check the 35 mm equivalent specifications for the lens. This way, you will be leveling the field and comparing apples to apples. More or less.

Here is a mini-tutorial I made myself to compare focal lengths. This is NOT a lens test or a camera test! It is merely intended to show the difference between various focal lengths. The lens was the Nikon 18-200 VR lens, which is (by definition) an 11X lens, but that 11X does not tell you what the final image will look like. I added one more frame taken with a 300 mm lens. The camera was a Nikon D200 so there is a 1.5X “crop factor,” “lens factor,” or “focal length multiplier.” There is further explanation on the image itself. It would help if you click on “All Sizes” above the image.

This was done with two different lenses: the Nikon 17-55 and 70-300:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/samfeinstein/1245831147/

rob answers:

Both Nikon and Canon have excellent bodies and lenses.

If you do your research, you will find that at this moment in time (this week) the Nikon D3 has the best low noise, high ISO sensor available. But the body costs $5,000. There are four Nikon bodies that exhibit excellent high ISO performance, but only one is under $1000 (the D90, no lens)

With such high ISO performance, buying a 50 mm f/1.2 lens (if they existed) is not necessary. They are relics from the days of 400 ASA film.

The best midrange zooms have apertures of f/2.8 which is plenty of light gathering for todays pro.

Now there are some issues to consider

All but a handful of the Nikon lenses made since 1959 can be used on the D90, D300, D700 and D3. This includes all the so called DX lenses designed for cameras with a APS-C sensor like the D90 and D300. The D3 and D700 are fully compatible with them.

All Canon EF lenses made since 1988 can be used on any of the EOS camera bodies. Any Canon EF-S lens can be used on Canon APS-C sensored cameras, but not on the full frame 5D or 1Ds, Mark III camera.

Here are the links to both camera websites … Look at what is available and then decide. Since buying a professional camera system is not something you do overnight, take your time and compare all the bodies and lenses available for both and make a wish list. Then compare the Nikon wish list to the Canon wish list.

Http://www.nikonusa.com/Homepage.page

http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ProductCatIndexAct&fcategoryid=111

Then before you spend a dime, go to a camera store and actually hold the Nikon and Canon with the lens of your choice and see which fits your hands the best.

At this moment Nikon has the best sensor if you are shooting in low light and hate digital noise in your digital image files. At this moment, Nikon had the most lenses both new and used available for their camera systems.

I will have more on the D700 and a few of the esoteric lenses that Nikon makes in the middle of October. A colleague is being sent a D3, D700 with 14-24 mm f/2.8, 24-70 mm f/2,8, 70-200 mm f/2.8, 200 mm f/2, 400 mm f/2.8 and 600 mm /4 lens. We will be testing them all shooting an NFL game, MLB game and a workout on the court of a NBA team. The resulting images will tell the tale. We are also shooting a couple of Canon 1Ds, Mark III’s with a similar lens lineup.

rob answers:

First, yes, a 12 mp sensor can perform better than a 18 mp sensor.

Look at this link and see.

Http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Camera-Sensor/Compare-sensors/(appareil1)/586%7C0/(appareil2)/587%7C0/(appareil3)/439%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Canon/(brand2)/Nikon/(brand3)/Nikon

I suggest you buy the D90 if is in your budget.

More on pixel count

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/mpmyth.htm

And finally, here is a link you may find interesting.

It compares the 12 mp Nikon D3s to the 21 mp Canon 1Ds, Mark III. As you can see the D3s out performs the Canon in sensor performance and especially when it comes to noise at high ISO settings. This link also compares the 24 mp Nikon D3X to the 21 mp Canon 1Ds, Mark III and as you see, the Nikon’s higher pixel camera out performs Canon’s

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Camera-Sensor/Compare-sensors/(appareil1)/628%7C0/(appareil2)/436%7C0/(appareil3)/485%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Nikon/(brand2)/Canon/(brand3)/Nikon

There is much, much more to a camera than just pixel count and only research can help you determine which camera is best for you.

rob answers:

If you’re learning how to use one, there is no need to spend more for the 50D.

The 500D will do fine.

rob answers:

Depends why you want a longer lens. I’m not a canon shooter but what I’ve seen that 75-300 is terrible. If you insist on 300mm then the new tamron 70-300 VC makes a lot more sense at that kinda money.

If you don’t have anything specific in mind then a 55-250 would be a good allround zoom

rob answers:

It depends what you want to photograph, you are not gaining very much with this lens, the aperture is the same as the kit lens, and you only get 30mm more range.
If you find yourself wanting a tiny bit more focal distance than your kit, and don’t use the wide end much….. Then I suppose it would make sence.

Wait until you can afford the 50mm, there is no point wasting money on a lens that will be worse than one you have!

rob answers:

Have you used Yahoo Search?

Do you know if it even will attach to a Canon EOS camera?

If it has a Canon FD lens mount, it will not mount to your 500D

rob answers:

I would consider Canon EOS Rebel T1i 15.1 MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera
* New 15.1-megapixel CMOS sensor with DIGIC 4 Image Processor
* Full HD video capture at 1920 x 1080 resolution; HDMI output
* 3.0-inch Clear View LCD; Live View Function for stills and video
* Capture images and video to SD/SDHC memory cards

rob answers:

Http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=AgDKzOjcE8c3Kakyhn4o2S2t5HNG;_ylv=3?qid=20101220175957AAOPsZD

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=Aj2HP3_rEhhKp1YVRSgM91ut5HNG;_ylv=3?qid=20101220185314AArxfkR

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=Aup3cuhc0n5BOIbJ68IyNfCt5HNG;_ylv=3?qid=20101220195405AAEH2I4

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=Agz19j9gUUvFtQ_KFocRUKut5HNG;_ylv=3?qid=20101220195513AAXwzgp

rob answers:

We can all give you our opinions, but in the end YOU are going to use it and the fact that I use a Nikon or Canon only means those cameras work for me and the way I shoot and the lenses I already own.

You may hate the camera I suggest or love it, buy you have to actually hold the cameras in your hands and see how the feels to you and which menu is the easiest for you to use.

I can give you a couple of links to help you, but until you go into a camera store and actually test them both, then everything is theoretical.

Http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebyside&cameras=nikon_d40x%2Ccanon_eos350d&show=all

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40.htm

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40x.htm

http://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/rebel-xt.htm

rob answers:

Here is a good side by side comparison:

http://www.digitalreview.ca/content/Nikon-D60-Compared-to-Canon-Rebel-XS-1000D.shtml

They seem like they are both pretty much the same, it just depends on what you personally prefer (which one is more comfortable in your hands, do you want live view [on 1000d but not d60]). Ultimately its going to depend on what lens that you get with it…you’ll need a fast lens with a long range (Zoom lens).

I have a canon xsi (450d) which is also very good and only costs slightly more than the 1000d. With that in mind I would highly recommend Canon over Nikon because Canon has the most lenses available/best ratings/largest market share. Also, when you look at the higher end cameras such as the Canon xsi, and compare it to the Nikon equivalent D80, it appears as though you are getting more for your money. All that on top of the fact that I like canon, I have used there film slrs and I believe that they are the superior company.

But don’t take my word for it, do some of your own research and find out what you like better, you really can’t go wrong with either camera, just be sure to find a good lens for sports…which is a completely diff issue.

rob answers:

Check out http://adorama.com or http://bhphotovideo.com … These are the 2 best camera shops around..

You’ll also need an SD card (4gb is best) and a uv filter to fit your lens, a camera case, and extra battery is always good. That will get you started.

There are lots of groups in Flickr for beginner dslr users, you’ll get a lot of help there and loads of information.

rob answers:

Hi,

There are only two sites that I know of that allow you to rent lenses and they specialize in doing so.

Http://www.lensprotogo.com

and

http://www.lensrentals.com/for-canon

I have not done any business with these sites so I cannot specifically vouch for them but I know they have been around for a little while.

Otherwise, depending on what the fees run, maybe it’s only about the same cost as purchasing a new lens, then returning it and paying a restocking fee? Whether or not this is feasible just depends on the value of the lens you need, I guess.

Hope that helps.

rob answers:

It depends upon what and how you shoot.

The two pro-sumer entry level DSLR’s are the Nikon D40x and Canon 400D (Rebel XTi)

You can avoid choosing based upon opinion by going into your local cameras store that sells both and hold both in your hands … Practice using them.

* Which is the easiest for you to use?
* Which menu is the easiest for you to navigate and make crucial changes while shooting.
* Which do you find the easiest to adjust aperture and shutter speeds while looking through the viewfinder … Without having to remove your eye from the it. (Action and sports photographers need this feature)

Then YOU know why you chose the camera you did and won’t worry about an grief people may want to give you because you bought the X camera instead of their favorite Y camera..

Lens choice really depends upon the type photography you tend to shoot. You will need to buy what you want at the time of purchase.

You will need wide angle lenses for shooting landscapes and architectural subjects, telephoto for shooting wildlife and sports or action photography and of course a general lens for shooting most of your images.

Choose the lens or lenses which will best provide you with the shots you tend to shoot

rob answers:

IS is an image stabilization scheme used by both Canon and Nikon (Nikon calls theirs VR) on their lenses. It is superior to other image stabilization designs.

However, unless you spend a LOT of time shooting in low light at low ISO’s, the 18-55 mm lens does not need IS. If you were talking about the 55-250 mm lens, then yes, IS would be important

rob answers:

The lower pixel count on the Olympus is not the problem, what is the problem is that the Olympus has a smaller sensor, much smaller.

Have you noticed that the best DSLR cameras have the larger sensors?

Like the 5D vs any of the Rebels?

5D 1x
Rebel 1.6x
Olympus 2x

It does not matter which camera you have when it comes to taking macro shots. What is important is the lens … It needs to be a macro lens.

If you want to shoot video, you really need to look at a camcorder.

rob answers:

The XSi has a 1.6x crop factor due to its reduced-size sensor (as compared to a full-frame sensor). The most affordable (~$280) telephoto zoom lens is the EF-S 55-250mm lens, the long end of which would be 250 * 1.6 = 400mm. Hopefully that’s close enough to 432mm for you, because longer lenses get way more expensive.

Also note that the overall range would be 88-400mm. So it basically has no wide angle. You would have to swap lenses or get something like an 18-200mm lens (28.8-320mm) if you wanted a range similar to the S5′s.

As for macro performance, you won’t be able to focus on objects as close to the lens as the S5 can right out of the box. The kit lens that comes with the XSi (if you opt to get it) can focus on objects 0.8 feet away, which is somewhat farther than the S5. With the S5, the lens can be touching the subject and it can still focus.

rob answers:

Most external flash units these days are more than that. Quality isn’t cheap, never has been.

Here’s a good place to do research on flash
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/

rob answers:

CS3 will do a great job editing raw formats. You need to open the images under Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) which is accessed via CS3′s File>Open menu. Be sure you have the newest version of ACR. If you have an older version of ACR, your camera may not be supported. You can go to Adobe’s web site and download it for free. Adobe is constantly updating ACR to handle the latest cameras.

rob answers:

Questions in the intro:

Sensor: CMOS vs. CCD technology isn’t worth discussing – they both produce great results. The general advantages of a large sensor (vs. A point & shoot) is that they produce much better image quality at high ISO settings, and they enable much shallower depth of field (e.g. For creating blurry backgrounds with portraits.)

Another great advantage of dSLR cameras is that they’re much more responsive. With point & shoot cameras you have three kinds of delay: shutter lag, evf delay, and sluggish autofocus. With the XS everything is much snappier.

And with dSLR cameras you can pick lenses that excel at certain kinds of photography… Dedicated macro lenses, portrait lenses, fish eye lenses, etc. You don’t *have* to buy these, but with a point & shoot you don’t even have the option.

1. The XS is in the same class as the D60 and A200. It’s a good all-round camera.

2. I.m.h.o. Live-view is a gimmick. It *can* be useful if you put the camera on a tripod a lot, but I personally think it would be mildly retarded to do handheld photography with a dSLR suspended two feet in front of your face.

3. The 18-55mm lens equates to a 3x zoom lens on a point & shoot. Good enough for general use, but a lot of people do end up adding a second lens for more reach. I see that Henry’s has a couple of interesting deals: http://www.henrys.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ItemsDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&departmentId=10404&categoryId=10429&itemID=243199

4. The SX10 and SX1 are both very good point & shoot cameras… But they still suffer from all of the disadvantages that I listed in the intro.

5. That’s a nice price. But do check out that link for the 2-lens-kits at Henry’s.

6. Ten megapixels is more than enough. Whether or not you need to upgrade to a dSLR depends on how serious you are/ want to become about photography. The XS is a better camera, but it’s also larger, heavier, and if you get extras it will be (much) more expensive. Oh, and the XS can’t shoot video. So it’s not for everyone.

Since you’ve used SLR cameras in the past you know what you’re missing with a point & shoot. As for all of the technology, look at the features as bonuses: you don’t have to use them (you can put the XS in automatic mode) but they’re there if you want them.

rob answers:

This question appears at least once a day. Don’t pull the hair out of your head just spend $6.00 on a memory card reader for your size memory card. Plug the USB end into the computer or hub. Then insert memory card into card reader. A small white icon appears on your desk top . Double click on it and when it opens there are two folders. Open until you find the one with your photo’s.

Good Luck

rob answers:

I own a Rebel XS, it’s an excellent camera and, in my opinion, an excellent choice.

Difficult to say. They could be discontinued at any time as cameras often are. However, it seems to be a very popular camera so Canon may keep it around for a time yet.

Even if it is discontinued they will most likely be available for many months after as most Canon cameras are.

rob answers:

Yes it’s a fine choice – just look at images on line that this camera is capable of. I still have (& use) a old Nikon D100 which is 6 (?) years old and 6MP – the image quality is superb because I am not making poster sized prints with it nor shooting under high ISO conditions (I use the D300 for that).

The point is, if you save up & wait for a newer model – it won;t be a new model by the time you get enough money AND you’ll have wasted all that time when you could have been shooting & learning.

Get the cheaper body, good prime glass & start shooting! Start saving for good glass & an upgrade while you’re shooting & when you feel the 500D can no longer meet your needs THEN is the time to upgrade.

New camera models coming out don’t immediately make the older ones (which people were perfectly happy using) useless.

Edit: Regarding the move to mirrorless cameras – Nikon & Canon may well jump on the bandwagon in the consumer end of the market, but I seriously doubt that we will be seeing mirrorless semi-pro & pro models any time soon. The (D)SLR market is well established. The telling phrase is that mirrorless cameras”‘take good enough pictures for most photographers” – most amateur photographers, maybe, but that just tells me that market analysts know nothing of photography. The first para of that article is way off too by stating that film is obsolete – not by a long way!!

rob answers:

Indeed, I can vouch for the Tokina 11-16mm lens f/2.8

even though it is not a canon lens (as other companies basically have to re-create the mount and technology that goes into the lens), it is one of the optically superior wide angle lenses on par with Canon quality.

rob answers:

If you compare the D3100 to the 500D, you will see that the D3100 has many more features and 500D and is the only dSLR that can auto-focus in the video mode.

On this link you will see that the sensor performance is better on the D3100

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Camera-Sensor/Compare-sensors/(appareil1)/664%7C0/(appareil2)/586%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Nikon/(brand2)/Canon

rob answers:

There were some optical converters made around the time Canon switched to their new EOS system, but the cost a couple of hundred dollars. I have not seen one of those for sale in over six years.

There is another converter that has no optics but you will not be able to shoot at infinity, which may or may not be a problem for you.

rob answers:

No. You camera only uses EF and EF-S mount lenses.

rob answers:

Well it should use the same settings that you last set it to.

Call Canon and see if there may possibly be a flaw in your camera.

800.OK-CANON

I had a 70-200 mm Canon lens fail on me and they replaced it for me after three attempts to correct it.

rob answers:

I think you mean SDHC or High Capacity Secure Digital card. It will give you more space but you really want a faster card like a Class 6 or Extreme III card. The faster the card the faster the recycle time of the camera.

rob answers:

The Canon XSi has been discontinued and replaced by the T1i.

The Canon XS was introduced in 2008 so its three years behind in technology.

If price is your main issue then I suggest looking at the Sony A390 which was released in 2010. Here is a review: http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/AA390/AA390A.HTM

The Sony A390 w/18-55mm zoom lens is $499.99 with free USA shipping at B&H.

If you have a larger budget then I suggest looking at the Sony SLT A33 which has Sony’s Translucent Mirror Technology (TMT). This technology allows for full-time continuous auto focus whether you’re shooting still pictures or 1080 HD video. The SLT A33 also has 2D or 3D Sweep Panorama and in-camera HDR capability. Here is a review:

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/AA33/AA33A.HTM

The Sony SLT A33 w/18-55mm zoom lens is $699.99 with free USA shipping at B&H.

B&H: http://www.bhphotovideo.com

rob answers:

I have a Rebel XS and no you’re not supposed to feel it, not in this camera. As previously mentioned it’s ultra sonic so you certainly shouldn’t hear it and the vibrations are large enough to shake off any dust but small enough that you won’t feel them.

Besides, if you’re like me, I have a Tamron 18-200 mounted and it’s the only lens I use. I probably won’t have dust problems. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t / can’t change lenses it only means you’ll stand much less chance of dust if you don’t change.

rob answers:

I own a Rebel XS and yes it does. It’s not very comfortable though, quite stiff and it chaffed my neck so I went and bought a softer, foam rubber strap.

You’re the first person I’ve seen interested in a strap. We read so many accounts here about dropped cameras – imagine that, not wearing a strap and they dropped their camera. What a concept!

Indeed, you’ll probably want a softer one but use it regardless.

rob answers:

I’m guessing that 18mm at the wide end is sufficient and that you only need more zoom range at the tele side. I’m also guessing that you’re on a bit of a budget.
Canon has a nice 28-200mm zoom, but you’d effectively loose wide angle coverage. They also have a great 17-85mm zoom. This is a fantastic walk round lens but is costs $500. So you could look into the Sigma 18-125mm zoom for $280 or the Sigma / Tamron 18-200mm lenses for around $385. These are upgrades in terms of zoom range but not in terms of image quality. You could also hold on to the 18-55mm kit lens and add a Canon 55-200mm zoom for just $200.
With regard to the flash, any external unit would be an improvement if you currently rely on the pop-up flash. Here I would stick with Canon. Have a look at their 220EX Speedlite for $115.

rob answers:

All of the current models have it.

rob answers:

If I understand the question correctly, you are trying to put the date the picture was taken onto the actual picture. This would be similar to the film camera, where the date would appear in the lower corner of the printed photo.

You can not do this on the Rebel XT camera. However, do not worry, the camera stores the date, time, and many other items (shutter speed, aperture, ISO, flash mode, etc.) within each picture. This data is called meta data and is not usually visible when viewing the picture, but is contained within the actual data file. Depending on the program viewing the picture file you can see the date/time and all this other info.

There are many programs out there that can read the date/time from your file (once you copy the file from your camera to the computer) and add a visual representation of that date/time in a font and color that you specify onto the picture. These programs usually can automatically handle entire directories of photos at one time.

I would strongly recommend that you keep copies (at least on CD) of your original picture files before letting some program alter all of them.

rob answers:

The real reason a DSLR makes better quality images is due to its larger sensor. The sensor in your A470 is tiny – 5.76 x 4.29mm (24.7mm squared) while an average DSLR sensor may be 23.6 x 15.8mm (372.9mm squared). Another reason for poorer image quality from a digicam like the A470 is the size of the individual pixels. Try drawing a rectangle the size of the sensor in your camera and then make 7,100,000 dots inside it. Now draw a rectangle the size of the DSLR sensor and make 10,200,000 dots inside it.

To maximize the image quality from your camera try these suggestions:

1) Always shoot at your camera’s highest resolution.

2) Always shoot at ISO 100.

3) Keep your f-stop from f5.6 to f11. Lenses are designed to perform best within this range.

4) Keep your camera firmly supported.

5) Be gentle with the shutter release. Press it gently, don’t “stab” it.

If you use these suggestions you’ll likely find less need for editing and trying to emulate the image quality of a DSLR.

Please feel free to completely ignore anyone who purports to be a professional photographer and tells you that “… The mirror in an SLR captures the image …”. No, the film or sensor captures the image. The mirror arrangement of an SLR allows you to see directly through the lens so you know 100% of what will be in the picture.

The only way the mirror in a DSLR could affect image quality is when you’re doing extreme macro or micro photography and the mirror swinging up jars the camera, causing a loss of image sharpness as a result camera shake.

rob answers:

Unfortunately few companies accept trade-ins. A local professional camera store might but its doubtful. There are companies that buy used equipment though.

Http://www.adorama.com

http://www.keh.com

http://www.bhphotovideo.com

The good thing is that you can use the lenses from the old Rebel SLR on any Canon DSLR.

rob answers:

Here is what you’ll need:

http://www.rugift.com/photocameras/canon-fd-eos-adapter.htm

rob answers:

I am in a photography class and we always use Canon Rebels i love them, they are not expensive and they do any amazing job.
That is probably the best camera to buy for a school.
But its not just the camera its self, lenses are also what you would want to look into, if you dont have the right lens for the job no matter how good your camera is the picture wont turn out.

rob answers:

Your white balance was set wrong.

rob answers:

Http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-70-300mm-4-5-6-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B000ALLMI8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1257134369&sr=8-10

rob answers:

Get a Yongnuo YN-460-II which his only £41 (eBay). It won’t do TTL but is fully adjustable in terms of output from full power (1/1) down to 1/64 power. Manual might take a little while to get used to but once you have, its far more reliable and reproducible than TTL flash.

You can mount this on your hotshoe or better still get some RF-602 triggers (£27 eBay) and fire the flash off camera wirelessly with the transmitter in the hotshoe.

You’ll have an off camera strobist setup there under your budget.

Check out the Strobist blog for all you need to know about off camera flash;
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

rob answers:

For landscapes the 10-22 mm Canon lens is legendary

For macro shooting, Canon has five lenses … All are superb … The focal length you choose will be based upon how close (physically) you want to be to the subject and your budget.

Http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ProductCatIndexAct&fcategoryid=155

rob answers:

The link did not work – is it that one?

Http://www.jpgmag.com/people/yogabagaba/

The question is not which lens is better but which lens would better suit your needs.
So why would you want a new lens? What lens came with your camera? What kind of pictures do you want to do that you can’t take now?

The kind of pictures you want to take should determine what kind of lens you would need – not the other way round.

Without knowing what the lens should do better than the one you have now one cannot decide which of the two would be better.

But in general: the longer (300mm is longer than 250mm) the closer you can make distant objects appear. The shorter the lens the wider the angle you can capture (and the closer you can get to the object you want to photograph). So for capturing the town square a short lens would be better because the long lens would only show you (very detailed) the door on the opposite side and for a bird up on a wire a longer lens would be suitable as the short one would show you a lot of sky, the idea of wire and an indistinguishable dot which would be the bird.

So again: What do you want to do with the new lens that you can’t do with the old one?

The previous poster was wrong about DOF of a faster lens – (depth of field = the range in which everything appears to be focused) is not better with a faster lens. DOF increases with smaller apertures (higher f-stop numbers). So the DOF is larger at f:4.5 than at f:1.8

Edit:
Lens wise the EF-S 55-250 1:4 – 5.6 IS is the more modern lens. IS means Image Stabilization. Which should be extremely helpful with a lens of that length and will help to reduce the use of a tripod. It’s range of 55-250mm on your D-Rebel XT equals the length of a 88mm-400mm Zoom lens on a 35mm film camera. 55mm (88mm) would be a moderate tele lens (often called portrait lens) and 250 (400mm) would be quite a long tele lens useable for sports or nature photography (where long distances to the subject cannot be avoided. I don’t know where you are located but amzon.com has it for a little above 200 US$ – which is almost 90$ off it’s original prize. It would be a good idea to invest some of the savings into a tripod or at least a monopod. Although you have image stabilization built into the lens a tripod works wonders when using a tele lens – also for portraiture if you want to use soft low light.
Additionally the 55-250 does not leave a gap in your zoom range as you have the 18-55mm lens and the other one is 55-250mm.

Overall the 55-250 is the the more modern lens and has image stabilization built into the lens. It was rewarded “Entry level lens of the year 2008″ (whatever that tells us) and had good test results. So it should be a good, reasonably prized lens.
Have a look here:

http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=216&modelid=15700

and here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011NVMO8/ref=s9sdps_c1_114_at1-rfc_p-frt_g1-3237_g1_si1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-1&pf_rd_r=1062YQHS4HAT97TMS55V&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=463383351&pf_rd_i=507846

or with the same package as the other one:

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-55-250mm-4-0-5-6-Telephoto-Accessory/dp/B001B2LP5K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=photo&qid=1227695618&sr=1-3

extended warrenty is available seperately as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Extended-Warranty-55-250mm-Autofocus-Digital/dp/B001G6S6FI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=photo&qid=1227695618&sr=1-6

I did not read into the details of that extended warrenty.

Hope it helps.

rob answers:

The second one is newer, has better optics, lighter, and has IS

i own the 55-250mm lens and it takes great photos

heres a picture i took with the lens at 146mm at f/11

look at the sharpness and detail in the photo

plus its cropped a bit

http://awesomobob.aminus3.com/image/2009-08-24.html

rob answers:

I’ll second the 50/1.8 lens. And suggest you invest in some sort of portable background, wood panels are heavy and definitely not portable by one guy.

rob answers:

The Pavlovian response is nearly always CANON! NIKON! As though there were no other choices. Fortunately, you’ve done some research and found that there are alternatives.

One thing to consider is that Sony has their version of Image Stabilization/Vibration Reduction (IS/VR) in the camera body. This means that every lens used will have that benefit. Canon and Nikon incorporate their IS/VR in the lens so you have to pay extra for it with every lens. Yes, there is evidence that having it in the lens gives slightly better results. If you will go to http://www.shutterbug.com and type ‘konica-minolta 5d’ in the Search box you’ll find a test of that camera (a direct ancestor of the Sony DSLR cameras). During the test, the author took a picture of a yacht at anchor, using a 36mm equivalent lens. He took one with the IS/VR Off and one with it On. Both pictures look the same – UNTIL a small section is enlarged. The one taken with the IS/VR On is much sharper. So IS/VR is useful even with shorter focal lengths.

Advantage: Sony A300

Everyone talks about the number of lenses available for Canon and Nikon as though the lens selection for the A300 is limited. Actually, the lens selection for the A300 is vast – it can use every Minolta Maxxum AF lens made since 1985. Plus, Sony has a line of Carl Zeiss lenses available. Don’t forget that every one of these lenses will have the benefit of the in-camera IS/VR. Canon and Nikon can’t say that.

The Live View of the A300 works with the auto focus. The screen also flips down or up. So if you’re in a crowd and have to hold the camera over your head to get the picture just flip the screen down and you can compose and shoot. If you’re shooting macro pictures of mushrooms and have the camera at ground level just flip the screen up, compose and shoot. IMO this is a valuable feature.

Advantage: Sony A300

Once you make your purchase, plan to spend some time to really READ & STUDY the Owner’s Manual. A company called The Magic Lantern publishes a companion book that should be useful as you learn to use your A300. You can find it at amazon.com.

Good luck!

“Pictures are not taken, they are made.” Ansel Adams.

“Best wide-angle lens? Two steps backward. Look for the ‘ah-ha’ “. Ernst Haas

“If your pictures aren’t good enough you aren’t close enough.” Robert Capa

rob answers:

CR2 are Canon raw images. Most software will open the compressed JPG files. It takes a special extension (codec) to open the CR2 files. I would think that Photoshop would have that codec, but you might have to search for it. ITMT, the s/w that came with the XS will handle the files for you.

rob answers:

Tips and “tricks” apply across the board, no matter what dSLR you have.

All the skills necessary to use a Rebel apply to using the Canon 1Ds, Mark III

Here is a link that you can explore for the rest of the year to get some good ideas on how to use your camera correctly.

Http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech.htm

Like Pooky said, do NOT learn bad habits, they will only cause you frustration in the end and you will have to eventually unlearn them.

rob answers:

Probably not. Couldn’t find Windows ME on the drivers download list. I doubt they still support it. You’ll have to get an upgrade to XP

rob answers:

Canon Rebel is a good DSLR to get.It is easy to use and provide great images,I recommend it.
Http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CBKJGG?ie=UTF8&tag=computer0bd-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001CBKJGG

rob answers:

You should go with Canon EH19-L Semi-Hard Case for Canon Rebel XS, XSi & T1i Digital SLR Camera with LP-E5 Battery + Tripod + Accessory Kit

KIT INCLUDES 9 PRODUCTS — All Brand New Items with all Manufacturer-supplied Accessories + Full USA Warranties:
Canon EH19-L Semi-Hard Case for the EOS Digital Rebel XS & XSi Camera PLUS + High Speed USB 2.0 SecureDigital (SD) Card Reader +
Spare LP-E5 Battery for Canon + Deluxe Photo/Video 57″ Tripod +
Precision Design Deluxe 6-Piece Cleaning Kit + Digital Camera Universal LCD Monitor Screen Protectors +
ImageRecall Digital Image Recovery Software + Memory Card Storage Wallet + Microfiber Cleaning Cloth

rob answers:

500D is a year older, has more noise than any competition camera, worse video functions. D3100 is much better!

The 18-55mm is already a good kit lens, for telephoto there is a 55-200mm for $149, and 18-105mm would be a good all around zoom instead of 18-55mm.

Here’s a DSLR Buying Guide – http://www.the-dslr-photographer.com/2009/11/which-dslr-to-buy/

rob answers:

Well here is one on Amazon

Macro Ring Flash LED Light! Works with Canon/Sony/Nikon/Sigma lenses! So the ad says

But what you need to know is 1) what the filter thread size is on the Tamron lens and 2) if that ring flash is large enough to fit on the lens without causing vignetting

You need to do your own research at the sources, not ask a bunch of strangers what to buy.

rob answers:

Put your camera on a tripod. Use a cable release, remote release, or the timer release. If you use the timer, set it to 10 seconds. If you don’t do these things, you will not know if the blur is due to the aperture setting or camera shake. Shoot a subject such as a brick wall from 20-30 feet away. Aperture priority would probably be the easiest way to go. Be sure to shoot in the largest file size you can with the finest resolution. If you know how to use RAW files, that it the best option for this kind of comparison.

The “rule of thumb” is that the sharpest setting is about two stops closed from the maximum aperture. For instance, at 55mm, your maximum aperture is f/5.6, so f/11 may be the sharpest. At 18mm, your maximum aperture is f/3.5, so f/7.1 or f/8 may be your sharpest.

You will have to view your results in Lightroom. You won’t be able to tell the difference in sharpness on the LCD.

rob answers:

OK, without making judgements or chastising anybody, the first question is which Canon DSLR body and lenses are you using now? If you are shooting an 18-55mm kit lens, you need to upgrade your glass before you upgrade your body. And for what it’s worth, the end results are less about the camera and a lot more about your mastery of composition, light and timing to be at the right place at the right time. If you are upgrading the body, it should be a decision based on how that camera will improve your workflow. Many pros shoot 1D/1Ds cameras not just because of image quality (readily matched by the cheaper 5D Mark II) but, also because the cameras are faster and they can customize the cameras to suit their specific needs rather than working around the limitations of the camera.

The bread and butter lenses for wedding photogs shooting Canon DSLRs are the EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM and 70-200mm f/2.8L USM (IS or non-IS version). My of us shooting crop body cameras like a 40D or 7D may use the EF-s 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM in lieu of the 24-70mm f/2.8L because the 17-55mm offers a similar field of view to the 24-70mm on a full-frame DSLR. In either case, one ideally has at least two camera bodies, one with the 17-55mm/24-70mm and the other with the 70-200mm. One major reason for the faster glass is it allows faster shutter speeds at lower ISO which helps preserve image quality. Shoot something at 200 ISO versus 400 ISO and you’ll see what I mean when you view it at 100%.

This is by no means all you’d need to adequately cover a wedding but, it gives you an idea of where to start. I’m not telling you to skip the 7D. I certainly have enjoyed mine so far. However, it sounds like your priorities, knowledge and experience are a little off and the 7D may not offer the return you are expecting from your investment. I wouldn’t use a 500D for anything but a 3rd/4th string backup or personal travel camera. But regardless of which body you choose, you need to budget for much better glass than the kit lenses if you are seriously thinking about having people pay you to shoot their weddings. I am not a pro and though I’ve been asked to shoot several weddings, I’ve declined specifically because I felt such precious memories were the exclusive domain of people with far more experience and vision that me.

rob answers:

Well, if you buy any camera other than 60d or d7000, that won’t be an upgrade. So I think you should go for d7000.
But if you’re getting a real bargain, consider d90 and spend more on lenses.

rob answers:

If you have a memory card in the camera, the “pictures remaining” will appear in the upper Right corner of the LCD Panel (The number will be in parentheses).
If you don’t have a memory card in the camera, this number won’t appear, because there are “0″ pictures remaining.

rob answers:

Well if your looking for an entry level DSLR then both Nikon & Canon are about the same. Some very minor differences among models but you will get the same value for about the same price. I did a lot of research before I bought my first DSLR, I visited forums and asked a lot of the pros. In the end I went w/ Canon because I had some of their other products. Nikon would be just as good; go to the store and see which camera feels more comfortable.

rob answers:

Depending on the model you go for you will need to take into account the sensor size, if you go for a consumer model the sensor is cropped, making the lens behave in a more telephoto fashion, so a 28-90 will behave more like a 45-150mm lens.

Most come have the option of a kit 18-55mm lens for a little extra.

You will find the most evenly matched camera for spec is the EOS1000D is good (the 450D has more AF points, spot metering and more megapixels) and does everything asked of it pretty well.

The 40D & 50D are a bit bulkier and made from metal components rather than plastic, also these cameras have a flash synch socket, if this is important to you.

The full frame option is the EOS5Dmk2. Where your lens will behave like it does on your EOS 300. However, the differences between film & digital when it comes to recieving light means that your 28-90 lens won’t perform that well on a full frame body.

rob answers:

The only thing I can think of is that your camera is capturing two different exposures. Which probably related to what mode your shooting in, such as Aperture Priority (Av) or Shutter Priority (Tv, I believe).
This is probably located in the same menu as your ISO and White Balance options.
Other than that the only thing I can think of is that you have it set to record a jpeg and a raw file.

rob answers:

It is only marketing since Canon EOS Rebel T1i only shoots 20 frames per second in that mode instead of the 30fps that is needed for 1920×1080.
The camera will shoot 720p @ 30fps so it can shoot full frame rate HD video, just not at a 1080 resolution.