rob answers:

Go to a store and play with them. On paper, they’re as capable as one another but you might find one’s too cumbersome for your hands etc. It’s how it feels in YOUR hands that’s important.

If you buy the ‘wrong’ one based upon other peoples’ opinions, you’ve just landed yourself with an uncomfortable camera. There isn’t an image-quality issue nor one with accessories with the cameras you’ve listed.

Personally, I wouldn’t choose either as both cameras are too small for my hands – they feel odd to hold and, especially with the Nikon, I find my fingers touch buttons when I don’t want them to. But your hands aren’t the same as mine.

rob answers:

If you are getting to know the camera, you should also be seriously getting to know the owners manual. It tells you exactly how to do this, as well as many other questions you will have. It is there for a purpose and WILL help you immensely if you will make the effort to study it.

But yes, as Pooky stated, you cannot shoot RAW in any full auto (green box) or scene / creative mode. You will need the camera in full Manual (M), or Shutter Priority (Tv), or Aperture Priority (A). Or Program (P).

Do you also realize that you will have to do manual converting of the RAW files in your supplied Canon software? RAW files are not usable until they have been adjusted and converted to Jpeg or Tiff.

Steve

rob answers:

I listed a link below that will take you to a list of lenses from a search I did at B&H Photo’s website.

You should take a good look at Tamron and Sigma lenses that fit your Canon. Tamron and Sigma are very respected independent lens makers and I have own both before and they have performed well for me. There appears to be some very good options for you that cost from $130 to $250 and zoom up to 25omm or 300mm.

Hope this helps.

Mark

marksablow.com

rob answers:

Jim is correct…read the manual!

If by continuous you mean “burst” shooting…you will not be able to use the flash since the flash’s recycle time is slower than your cameras FPS speed.

rob answers:

The lens that comes with the XS is just fine, the 18-55 mm.

Good lighting is the key to producing “studio” quality images.

You have the tool, now you need some experience using it.

See if you can spend some time with a “studio” photographer, learning how to light people. After all, your newborn is just a tiny person.

If you cannot spend time with a pro, look on this link to learn how to light just about any subject.

Http://strobist.blogspot.com/

If your goal is to shoot using available light (not studio lights), the Canon EF 50 mm f/1.8 is a good choice ($100) for a second lens

rob answers:

If you are looking at taking just wide angle shots then you need a wide angle lens. Given the 1.6 factor with that camera you would probably be looking at something in a 17mm lens. A fixed focal length lens with F2 to F2.8 is a good choice. Canon lenses are the best for that camera and hopefully their fixed focal length lenses will have the F-stop markings on the barrel so you can do some hyper focal length shots to maximize your depth of field.

rob answers:

You should check out:

http://dpreview.com/

they rate their best models too: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/default.asp?view=rating
or u can just look on the left for other search criteria

bodies cost about $700-$1000 (for basic consumer dslrs) and lenses can get pretty expensive. A cheap kit lens for $100. A decent one for $500. U can change lenses, and stock up on different ones.
A good canon lens i can think of is the 17-85 image stabilizing one. The zoom’s not too big but it’s wide angle. Dnt get the kit lens, look around.

Yeah, u’lll get high res. Pics.

As for models, canon and nikon are pretty good. Canon 400d or the newer 450d, nikon d60…

A good buying site: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/
best prices

um, also, i think nikon might give more accurate colors.

rob answers:

If money is the primary issue go with the D40 it will give you great photos and give you more bang for the buck than any entry DSLR out today. Do not let the lower megapixels concern you if you do not do very very large prints you will never notice the lower DSLR. If you have a bit more money the D60 give you a number of things you want. It has newer firmware and image processors, designed for the 10 mp sensor. It has an “Active Dust Reduction System with Airflow Control “. Nikon not putting a system on the D40 to deal with dust is one of the biggest drawbacks I see to the D40 ( though I think its still a great camera for the money) If you change lenses dust will get in and the camera needs a system to deal with it. With the D60 you get a VR lens. That will help with low light situations ( they may offer that now with the D40 but originally it was not) . The D60 has Adaptive Dynamic Range. Nikon calls it “Active D-Lighting,” it lets you save some highlights that my otherwise be lost. It has a newer better metering system than the D40.

Added

Some people will want to make a big issue out of the fact that there are some nikon lenses that will not autofocus on these cameras. Right now there are “only” about 39 lenses that autofocus on these cameras. They cover the range of focal lengths. I doubt any photographer would be seriously limited with “only” this many lenses to choose from. If you want to manually focus you can more than double this and do so at a low cost. Manual focusing is easy and how we did things for decades before the advent of autofocus.

Cannon and Nikon chose to put the vibration reduction in the lens rather than the body. Yes that means you get it only on lenses with that feature built in. In the body in theory it would work on every lens. But in fact image stbilization in the lens has proved to work faster and smoother with a lower impact on focus times than image stabilization in the body

I found it interesting that one of the comments here said “never buy a camera that runs on AA. Ever.” because while I agree that the other batteries can give you superior performance under most condiotns. I just bought the MB-d10 multi battery pack for my D300 spending 300 us on it and one of the main motivations was that in a real pinch I could use AA batteries which I could get anywhere

In closing all the major manyfactures make good cameras. With Nikon and Canon having the largest market share. Most photographers are loyal to what they use and like. Go to the stores get them in your hand and find what you like. What fits your hand well, which has the features you want in an easy to use format

rob answers:

Can a DSLR be used without a detachable lens? Well, yes and no. No in a practical sense, yes in a impractical sense. You’ll definitely want lenses if you want to take pictures, but there’s also what’s called pinhole photography which requires no lens. It’s more of a creative technique in these modern times so the answer to your question leans more toward no.

If you don’t want to buy other accessories then you should probably go with the superzoom. You didn’t really specify what type of shooting you’ll be doing. A DSLR will definitely take “higher quality shots” but the kit lens, which you didn’t mention the inclusion of, is a 3x wide-angle, moderate telephoto zoom. If it’s inadequate for your shooting needs, you’ll need to buy a different lens. The superzoom, on the other hand, is an all-inclusive package.

As for the complicatedness: a DSLR has auto modes too but will also have a number of creative and manual modes if you decide to explore photography on a deeper level. The understanding of these settings is just a 10-minute manual-study away. The superzoom does have the advantage of video recording and compactness. I think the SX100/SX110 also has manual modes.

rob answers:

Do you have any idea on how much money that a Professional DSLR actually Cost? Try in the in the ballpark of about $4000 to $5000 to start.

You far better off getting a basic consumer level DSLR that cost a minimum of around $500

rob answers:

I own a Tamron lens for my Rebel XS and it fits file and works well. Make sure you’re getting the
Tamron with the Canon EF, EOS mount.

rob answers:

Of course they can…even point and shoot cameras can.
However, it’s always best to shoot in normal colour, and then convert (a copy of them) to black & white/sepia in post processing in your image editor software. That way you always have your original colour image.

rob answers:

You need a class in photography.

If you use the cameras light meter in the manual mode and pick a shutter speed of at least 1/250th second. To achieve this, you may have to increase the ISO

These are the fundamentals you will learn in just one class in photography. Attempting to learn using the “try and fail” method is not working out well for you it seems.

rob answers:

I take it you have the 10 megapixel one, if so go to this link and scroll down to live yiew, hope this helps
robl

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/XS/XSA.HTM

rob answers:

Just curious, how come you can’t just put it in manual, give yourself the largest aperature available, turn the ISO up, give yourself a faster shutter speed and you won’t be blurry or need a tripod.

rob answers:

Great camera there mate…

I would do the “new battery” thing first…set yourself up with a set of super duper high power rechargeables as these fancy cameras use alot of power especially the flash and LCD screens.

Also , have a read here about your camera and see if there is anything here that helps..

Http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos1000d/

rob answers:

Usually, they’re definition of a “professional camera” is any camera with detacheable lenses. This includes all DSLR cameras and all electronic viewfinder interchangeable lens (EVIL) cameras.

So yes, a Canon Xs, in their minds at least, is indeed a professional camera, and therefore will not be allowed in these venues.

rob answers:

Hey,

Here’s a post called ‘How to Photograph Fireworks – http://the-digital-photographer.blogspot.com/2009/12/how-to-photograph-fireworks.html

Shutter speeds ~1s to 8s
Aperture ~ f/8 – f/32
ISO – 100

rob answers:

No.

Canon uses SD cards.

No adapter that I know of will make it fit.

Gonna have to buy new, but SD is MUCH cheaper than Memory stick. 2 gig card for $8-10 instead of $25-30. Buy a couple.

rob answers:

Your question doesn’t really make sense:
you want less zoom than your 18-55mm lens
BUT
you want it almost like a regular digital camera – that tend to have more zoom than an 18-55!

I am going to assume that you don’t really know what “zoom” is but want it to be like a regular digital camera – go for a lens that is 18-200mm – made by Canon, Sigma or Tamron

rob answers:

Since you already have a Nikon 35 mm camera, you will find that 1) the complimentary DSLR’s metering system is identical, so you will not have to learn any subtle differences found with Canon or other metering systems. The traditional Nikon center weighted meter has continued to be consistent since first introduced in the Nikon Ftn.

No shutter lag means a DSLR.
What ever Nikon lenses you have now will work on the new Nikon DSLR’s
At present, the Nikon D80 is within your budget, but the newest Nikon DSLR is the D90 .. It has some features new to DSLR’s you may find interesting enough to spend the little extra … $999.
All the photo skills you have been using with your Nikon 35 mm SLR are directly transferable to Nikon DSLR’s, so the user friendly aspect is not really an issue .. The added features, while many, are easy to learn while shooting normally as you would your 35 mm.

Link:

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebyside&cameras=nikon_d80%2Cnikon_d90&show=all

http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/Product/Digital-SLR/25446/D90.html

rob answers:

Actually the 400D *is* a Digital Rebel (XTi) and it’s fine for all but Major League applications. Your real challenge will be lenses.

If you’re shooting outdoors in daylight you can get away with consumer-grade glass. But indoors and at night you’ll need fast pro tubes. Count on another couple of thousand $$.

An important and relatively cheap accessory is a monopod. Don’t leave home without one.

A really good resource for you is www.sportshooters.com. Check out the forum — the pros are more than willing to share what they know.

Hope this helps and good shooting!

rob answers:

Well I would say go with the 550D because its much newer and better on most cases. If you choose Nikon get a D3100 or a D7000(D90 replacement) or wait for the new D5100 . Btw avoid the kit lenses, if your new in photography get a cheap prime lens which has a much better image quality, bokeh (swallow depth of field), and great low light capabilities and you wont regret it. For canon EF 50mm f1.8 and for nikon 35mm f1.8 .

Good Luck

rob answers:

Your question begs a question. Are you sure you really want a used camera?

Who’s owned it, how many have owned it, has it been roughed or beaten up, wet, abused, what’s the shutter count? All these things plus a host of others come to mind with used equipment.

If you’re going to buy used be sure you know the person selling it to you. You’ll want the chance to shoot with it, handle it, look closely at the lens(s) and that kind of thing.

Ebay is buyer beware. They’re just like the classifieds in the newspaper, they don’t own the equipment they just run the ads for it.

Be very careful.

Oh, you won’t find a quality camera at a cheap price, it won’t happen.
These things are expensive to build so they’re expensive to buy.

rob answers:

Adorama $457 and comes with accessories

http://www.adorama.com/Als/ICADRXSKBRA.html?utm_source=gbase&utm_medium=Shopping%20Site&utm_campaign=Other&utm_term=Other

Adorama is one of the biggest camera store on the net and very reliable.

Http://cheapdslrprofessional.blogspot.com/

rob answers:

I would recommend to get Canon 430 EX. You may get a used one from your local camera shop.

rob answers:

Flash units are very expensive, depending from the features. If you take night shots, you could try to leave your shutter open for long time and just “paint” the car with a torch light or even walk around it using a cheap flash unit as standalone device. If is very dark and you set low ISO, you’ll have enough time to use this technique without flooding the picture with light and overexposing. Also you won’t need to use photoshop. Hope this help.

rob answers:

A lot of us use Pocket Wizards to connect to our studio flash units.

There is no need for the flash units to “talk to your camera”

As far as I know, only specific Nikon dSLR’s have a system where the cameras and their dedicated SB flash units communicate.

The YongNuo-RF-603-Flash-Trigger seems to be an inexpensive alternative. All you can do is buy a couple and test them to see if they really do work

rob answers:

Most modern digital cameras (including your Canon) do not like voltages above about 9-12V. They definitely cannot take 250V!

According to this site;

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

Your flash is 3.6V so it should be ok.

You do not need to buy a Canon flash though. Either use a safe sync, or use wireless triggers (like RF-602′s – £27- perfectly safe) to fire it. Having TTL on a flash is not necessary (in fact TTL is unreliable & unreproducible) – you should learn to work a flash manually.

rob answers:

Let me preface by saying I am not one of those who insist you must buy expensive brand name gear. Ive used generics including flash units and been satisfied with the results. Not everyone is a pro photographer who can justify the expense nor a hobby photographer with unlimited financial resources.

I would pass on the YN-460. Ive never heard of Yongnuo and if theres a problem I doubt you’ll get any customer support. If this were at a local camera shop I might be more willing to try it knowing if I didn’t like it I could easily return it. I wouldn’t want to have to pay return shipping plus lose the original shipping charges.

Even the Bower SFD328 I would be leery of ordering online again because if it did turn out to be bad I would lose original shipping and return shipping charges. The sellers return policy states

“We are committed to your absolute satisfaction. If you are not happy with a purchase, please contact us and we’ll do whatever we can to make you happy, including taking a product back at our expense, shipping you a new one or giving you a full refund and letting you keep the product for free.  We hope our commitment to your satisfaction will give you the confidence to buy our products and continue to be our customer for years to come.”

They have 99.8% positive feedback so if the return policy is accurate it might not be a bad deal. I looked up the specs at B&H photo and it seems to be a decent generic flash. B&H sells it for less with free shipping so the Ebay price isn’t a bargain. If you like the flash Google “Bower SFD328”. Check some other prices, shipping fees and return policies. You may get a better deal than the Ebay deal. Of course being in Australia your purchase options may be limited.

rob answers:

Yes, the T3i is a great camera. In the right hands, it will produce excellent photos. If you feel like it has all the specs and features you need, go for it. Otherwise, you should consider a few other models in the same price range like the Canon T2i or Nikon D5100.

There is no best lens though..
However, here is something that should help you decide on a lens that suits your needs:

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-lenses.htm

rob answers:

The 55-250mm is an excellent telephoto lens, and the T3i is 99% the same camera as the D5100 It would be a much better buy.

Here’s a DSLR Buying Guide – http://www.the-dslr-photographer.com/2009/11/which-dslr-to-buy/

rob answers:

See you can Compare Canon 1100D vs Nikon D3100 (both are entry level DSLR) http://thenewcamera.com/?p=3699

Now You can compare Canon T3i/T2i vs D5100 (all these camera are one step above entry level DSLR ) http://thenewcamera.com/?p=4464

rob answers:

Both the Sony Alpha A390 and the Pentax K-x are around $500 with an 18-55mm lens, so a DSLR isn’t out of your reach. The Nikon D3100 is $550.
These cameras aren’t all that far behind the EOS 60D and for 90% of photographic situations they will perform every bit as good.
The point is that a DSLR is within your budget. If you really want a compact camera or a bridge camera, the Canon G12 is seriously good…..it’s also over your budget. The Canon SX301S is right on your money, the Nikon Coolpix P500 is also in your money and the Nikon P7000 is just a touch over.

Most of the major brands have something in your budget that will suit your purpose.

rob answers:

Yeah, you shouldn’t use an adapter (which basically just switches the plugs) but you could use a transformer, which also switches the voltage.

Or you could just get a UK battery charger off ebay:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Charger-CANON-EOS-550D-600D-T2i-T3i-LP-E8-LPE8-/110717960918?pt=UK_Camera_Chargers_Docks&hash=item19c74e02d6#ht_1285wt_976

rob answers:

They don’t have the same sensor…and different microprocessors.

Compare the cameras here…
Http://www.canon.co.uk/for_home/compare_products/LoadComparator.asp

rob answers:

Definately the 550D, it is an improved version of the 500D.

If you look through reviews of it on the net, you will find that most people who have bought it, recommends it for others.

Check out some of the great reviews on the link below.

rob answers:

They would be indistinguishable.

rob answers:

At 720P with identical frame rates, no, not really. 7D will be a bit crisper, but not enough to warrant $1,000 more. But the 7D will allow you to monitor internal sound coming from the built in Mic and it will allow you to accept external sound units. The 7D is also weather sealed so you will be able to shoot in many more settings. Also, as it feels more substantial in the hands, it will be a bit easier to handle for video.

But to be honest, if you are only going to shoot at 720P, and the built in Mic, then go with the T1i. If you need to have external microphones, you can buy a Zoom H4N and record the sound separately, which is what many people, myself included, do on the 7D anyway.

rob answers:

When I bought my 500D 22 months ago a Pro recommended I buy the 70-200f4L IS to go with the 18-55IS kit lens which I did. I have since bought a 5DM2 and 7 other lenses but the 70-200 is still my most used lens on the crop and full frame with or without a 1.4 II extender. If you don’t want to spend that much have a look at the Canon 85f1.8. Fantastic portrait lens on both crop and fullframe and an excellent medium telephoto lens. The Sigma 50f1.4 is also worth a look. I have all three and can thoroughly recommend them to you.

rob answers:

D40
go to kenrockwell.com
to read about it

rob answers:

Manual is fine if thats what you prefer, as a guide the camera should indicate when you are in focus by means of a small green circle in the viewfinder.

The supplied lens doesn’t have a great deal of ‘throw’ on it, and most of canons budget and non-L lenses are pretty poorly dampened, as such you may find using AF easier.

Apart from that the viewfinder in the XS is pretty small, pretty dark and hard to gauge accurate focus with. As such I would opt for AF.

The way to do use AF is to move to P mode rather than the green square mode. Select one shot AF mode, select the centre AF point only (this works best in low light)

Point your the centre focus point over the subject, half press, the point should flash and the green circle should appear, keep the pressure on the button, recompose then depress completely.

Hey hey an in focus shot.

rob answers:

The kit lens for the XTi and the XS will be the same today. So they will both have a stabilizing lens. The XS is pretty much a watered down XTi. The Xti was phased out when the XSi came out. Canon pretty much took the old sensors of the Xti and put them in a cheaper body. I would personally go for the xti, it might be older, but it is a XXXd model camera. What I mean si that canon number codes their camera types. The midrange DSLR’s are labeled as XXXd models. The Xti is the 400d, the XSi is the 450d. Better cameras go at different levels. The 40d and 50d are both better than any of the rebel cameras, except for the newest 500d perhaps. And the 7d and 5d are better still.

The Xs model is in a class of it’s own. It is a XXXXd, aka 1000d. I wouldn’t touch this hting at all.

Hope this helps

rob answers:

The Rebel XS is not compatible with any wireless remote release. You can only use a wired one.

Edit:
Ignore those who tell you that the wireless remote will work with the XS. It will NOT. Look on page 164 of your manual:
[quote]
Using the Remote Switch
Remote Switch RS-60E3 (Sold separately)
Remote switch with a 60 cm/2.0 feet cord for pressing the shutter button
halfway or completely. It connects to the camera’s remote control terminal.

The camera is not compatible with Remote Controller RC-1 or RC-5
[end quote]

RS-60E3 is a wired switch
RC-1 & RC-5 are wireless remotes.

rob answers:

They are same camera but difference called in difference country. Canon Rebel XS use in US and EOS 1000D use in Europe.

rob answers:

I’d suggest the Rebel XT/350D. Yeah, there’s newer models, but these models don’t really bring anything new to the table. Past 6mp, resolution isn’t really an issue, as the more megapixels you have, the smaller the photo receptors on the sensor and the less capable each individual receptor is at collecting light (ie, more megapixels = more noise). I see these newer models as a tactic to keep the salemen at electronics stores happy; it’s hard to sell technology that’s been on the shelf for three years. Things like anti-dust sensors, in-camera photo effects, very slightly faster shooting rate, and a bigger LCD are mostly gimmicks. Sure, they make your life a bit easier, but they’re by no means necessary to good pictures. Check out this comparison between the 350D/400D/450D and see if any of the differences are signficant enough for you to justify the higher price (http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebyside&cameras=canon_eos400d%2Ccanon_eos450d%2Ccanon_eos350d&show=all). Just one more note on that, the street price of the XT/350D is around $400 and I have found that the camera easily achieves 5-6 continuous RAW frames before its buffer is full, as opposed to the 4 listed (.CR2 file, Sandisk 4gb Extreme III).

If you’re really in love with film, there are also plenty of ways to reduce your costs there as well. Do you develop your own film? If not, but you can follow the average food recipe, you should be more than capable of processing your own black and white film. You’d need a room that you could convert to a darkroom (basically, something that can be made temporarily sealed against any visible light — I use my basement) and a bit of equipment. You can pick up a kit that contains everything you need, sometimes including all the chemicals, for about $50 from your local camera store or ebay. If you want to make prints, you can also buy a used darkroom enlarger for pocket change, just make sure you get a good lens for it (I prefer the EL-Nikkor 50mm f/2.8 for 35mm, $35 on ebay) and some photo paper. With this setup, you’ll be able to start processing your own film. Color film (C-41) can be a bit different (and more expensive) to process, so I’d start with black and white first if at all possible, and you’d want to pick up a C-41 kit when you venture into color. If you don’t want to develop your own film, you can still save money by buying film in bulk and loading it into cartidges with a bulk film loader. You can pick these loaders up, used, for very little money, and bulk film is much much less expensive. As an example, you can get 35mm fomapan 100 black and white film online in 100′ spools for $35-$40 that give the equivalent of eighteen 36-exposure catridges. Just another suggestion.

rob answers:

Like she said, the 18-55mm is the lens kit.

2. USM gives faster auto focus without the sideeffect of a loud motor when it focuses. IS just depends on the generation it is in though IS lenses general are all the same but the newer verson have more gyros in it to have a more active IS. It does not usually increase cost that dramatically. Build quality will vary depending if you buy a comsumer lens or if you buy Canon’s L series.

3. No the kit is not multiplied by 1.6x because it is a EF-S or EF-Shortback lenses which means it is designed for APS-C sensors. However all EF lenses that are not EF-S, which include all L series as well, are multiplied by 1.6x

4. Yes.

5. The kit is not junk. Its just newbies who dont know how to use them that complain about it. Its a great lens and you can get amazing pictures out of it IF you know what your doing. If you arent willing to spend money on a lens then, the kit is going to be the cheapest lens that gives good results otherwise your going ot spend $300 on like the 28-135mm f/3.5-4.5 IS which has about hte same imagine quality, but has a longer reach to it. Http://www.flickr.com/photos/ichikoko/343612636/ here are a picture I took with the kit.

Seriously if your not going to spend money on a L series lens or equlivate lens, then the imagine quality is not going to be much different from the lens kit UNLESS you get prime lenses like the 50mm f/1.8.

rob answers:

I cannot tell you specifically about those lenses, but I can tell you this much. The website you referred to is a KNOWN scam site. DO NOT BUY FROM THEM. For more information, see:

http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Photo_Dynasty

Notiice the overall customer satisfaction rating. It’s 0.45 out of a possible 10. Then, read the individual reviews from people who have bought stuff from there. They are not good….Do yourself a favor and buy from a known LEGIT store like B&H Photo, and Adorama. I’ve purchased from Beach Camera a few times and never had problems with them at all, so you may want to look there as well. There are a few other legit sites with a great reputation, but this should help you to get started. But, avoid that photodynasty.com place at all costs. Here is what one customer had to say about them:

“According to the BBB, 1008 complaints over the past 36 months. That is not a typo — 1008.”
The name that they do business under is called “Best Price Cameras, and it has at least 19 other aliases they use as fronts for the so-called business.Here is the link to the BBB of New York for further information.

Http://search.newyork.bbb.org/reports.aspx?id=12668&pid=44&page=0&FindStr=photodynasty&SearchBy=company&Address=&City=&Phone1=&Phone2=&Phone3=&MembersOnly=False

Here is yet one more site that has nothing good to say about these rip-off artists:

http://www.ripoffreport.com/reports/0/339/RipOff0339286.htm

To anyone reading this, AVOID this site, or any of their other “DBA” sites. Bait & Switch is their game, no matter their name. ALWAYS buy from a well known, LEGIT source. This place is NOT legit in any sense of the word.

Edit: Let’s see here. The Xti body sells for about $480+ (give or take a bit). The 70-300mm lens sells for about $440. The 28-135 lens sells for about $500. Doing some math, hmmm. That comes to a total of….$1,420. From LEGIT stores like Amazon.com. And these rip off artists are advertising a price of, get this – $819 for the ENTIRE package. Yeah right. True sleaze and deception at its worst. Bait & Switch, and deceiptful. I wish they would close these kinds of con artists down for good. The world has no need for them, and the likes of them.

rob answers:

If you have a 35mm Canon that uses an EOS mount (1987)and beyond then yes all your lenses will fit on the digital. The lenses focal length will have to be multiplied by 1.6 because of the smaller sensor used on the lower model Canon DSLR’s. This works out very well for telephoto lenses. A 200mm lens would act like a 320mm lens on a 35mm camera. The down side is that your wide angel lenses wont be as wide. There are a few full frame sensor (same size as 35mm film) professional models buy I am assuming you are not looking for those. All camera companies will have smaller sensors for their SLR’s so this is not unusual.

Telephoto and Zoom: A telephoto lens is one that makes far off subjects appear closer. They can be either fixed focal length or zoom. A fixed focal length would be like a 200mm lens. Fixed focal lengths will generally have better image quality but they are not as convenient as a zoom.
Zoom lenses are lenses that change focal length. The kit lens that comes with the camera would be a zoom lens. It is typically and 18mm to 55mm zoom. There are many different sizes of zoom lenses. Some are wide angle like the 10-22mm some will be telephoto like a 70-300 or 100-400mm.

Basically the Digital SLR’s will be quite familiar to you. If you know how to use a 35mm slr you will be able to use the digital version. You will need to learn about white balance and shooting raw but everything else will be the same.

Some cameras to look at would be the following Canon models. I am saying stick with Canon because you already have lenses.

Rebel XTi, or XSi entry level models
Canon 40D prosumer model
Canon 30D prosumer model replace by 40D.

rob answers:

Only Canon EF lenses will work with your possible purchase.

Canon EF-S lenses can damage the mirror of 35 mm and full frame dSLR EOS cameras

rob answers:

You Can’t Charge The Camera Via USB Cable which is only used to transfer Data from Camera to the Computer where You would be Needing To Use A Charger to Charge the Batteries Up.

The Owners Manual Actually Covers on How To Charge The Battery.

rob answers:

I’d happily shoot that with a 24-70 f2.8

rob answers:

Why don’t you look on ebay, Craigslist and Amazon to find out what everybody else asks/gets for that camera?
Then you’ll have a very good idea of market value and get decide from there.

rob answers:

The Canon EF 70-200 mm f/2.8 is good for all of those events.

Shooting field sports, add a 300 mm f/2.8 if you shoot night games or a 70-300 mm if all the field sports are shot during the day

Clarity and a better overall image has all to do with your technique as a photographer.

I think you would be hard pressed to compare a photo shot using a 300 mm f/2.8 @ f/8 and a 70-300 mm at the 300 mm zoom setting at f/8 know which was which without reading the data on the image file

rob answers:

Canon and Nikon are good brands. I have used both. Both cameras you listed are good to use, especially if you don’t worry about how much your going to spend. How much are you looking to spend? Do you already have any camera equipment, if so what? And why are you not considering any Olympus cameras, if your being cost conscious you should look into one. The Olympus’s are Cheaper than the Nikon, and i know people talk about how good Nikon lenses are ( i know i have a D40x ) but the Olympus cameras use Zuiko Lenses, which have always been renowned for their sharpness. The E-420 is the smallest and lightest DSLR in the world, Smaller than my Nikon D40 and it cost allot less. And the E-510 has image stabilization in the body, which means you can put any old lens on it and it with have I.S., and i mean any old lens. The cameras a know for being able to adapt many older lenses to then that you can get cheep used. Canon and Nikon don’t offer Image stabilization in body. If you want Image stabilization on them you have to buy the lenses with it built in and that brings up the lens cost.

I just checked the prices for them new, and you can get them cheep.

Olympus Evolt E410 10MP Digital SLR Camera with 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 and 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 Zuiko Lenses
For under $450

Olympus Evolt E420 10MP Digital SLR Camera with 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 Zuiko Lens

For under $450

Olympus Evolt E510 10MP Digital SLR Camera with CCD Shift Image Stabilization and 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 Zuiko Lens

For under $500

One thing i can say that i always use my Nikon for is Sports Photography , i do allot of photographing at baseball, football and soccer games and when I have a job that entails sports the Nikon is the camera that i use. But unless you do allot of that you shouldn’t spend the extra.

rob answers:

I’m a Nikon user so this is the best I can do:

I’m sure that any EF or EF-S lenses works with your EOS 450D

I never done much research but I think:
EF works with : AF film cameras, DSLR’s and full frame DSLR’s

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF_lens_mount

EF-S works with: DSLR’s and maybe full frame DSLR’s but with reduced megapixels

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF-S_lens_mount

FD works with manual focus film cameras only.

If you have some time read all this, looks interesting:
http://photonotes.org/articles/beginner-faq/lenses.html

rob answers:

No camera lenses come with a filter on the front element (it’s not just Canon). Some photographers feel they degrade the image quality (indeed, cheap ones can) so never use them. It would also add to the cost of course.

I use a quality UV filter on my lenses & in fairly rigorous testing, have not found them to impede IQ at all.

rob answers:

Hello,
I’d say that right now you’ve got a pretty good set of glass, especially for a beginner. Those lenses will cover quite a range of situations.
The tripod is the next big, important thing to get. Without a tripod, zoom/telephoto is difficult, and low light, nighttime and special effects are almost impossible. The good news is that a good tripod will still cost less than a new lens, and it’ll help you get much more out of your camera. Be wary of cheap tripods, and when you go to a store, spend some time messing around, getting a feel for everything that they’ve got. Feel for something solid, and also look for the possibility of exchangeable heads, so that you could swap out a ball for a pan, depending on what you need.
Hope this helps!

rob answers:

No. Each camera system are the result of proprietary designs.

It is the unique designs that have propelled Nikon and Canon to the front of the line when Pros start the process of deciding which system they will be using over the next few decades. This process can take years, so it is a good idea to start this process long before you actually need to use the system to create cash-flow.

From the time a person decides they want to delve deeper into photography, until they actually begin to make a living, there is usually enough time to “date” a few of the different systems while in school. When your total investment is only on camera body and one lens, it is not too difficult to change systems. When I attended photo school, I was able to trade with a fellow student a 35 mm SLR and 50 mm f/1.4 lens for one full term. It was that experience that helped me choose the best system for me.

Of course this is probably not an option for you, so the next best way to decide is to do this:

Go into a camera store and see which of the cameras fits your hands the best.

See which cameras menu is the easiest for you to use to make changes in ISO, camera resolution, white balance, mode switching and make EV changes (a camera with +5/-5 EV could be important to you).

Finally, take a SD card with you and test each camera at their highest and lowest ISO as well as when using the white balance that matches the light in the store as well as with it in the “auto white balance” mode.

Once you get home and are able to see the results on your large computer monitor, you will know which camera is better for your needs and expectations, not ours.

rob answers:

Your best bet is to go over to http://www.dpreview.com and read the reviews of the D100 versus newer cameras.

You’ll see that the D100′s image quality is not really up to modern standards.

It’s a tossup between the D60 and the Canon. The D60 does not have live view.

(Live view is a bad idea anyway, as you have to hold the camera out at arm’s length to see the screen. This will be the cause of many “why are my pictures blurry” questions on here.)

Just my 2 pesos.
V2K1

rob answers:

It’s called Canon EOS 1000D in Europe.

rob answers:

The lenses are compatible. They both can use EF and EF-S lenses.

The memory cards are different… The XT uses CF cards, the XS uses SD cards.

The batteries are also different.

rob answers:

If his camera is an EOS it will. All EF lenses are fully compatible with all EOS camera bodies. EF lenses first started being made in 1987.

You will have to look at the lenses. If the lens says something like CANON EF LENS on the front, it will work fine. If it says something like CANON FD LENS, then no, it will not work.

As for filters, they will work on any lens that has the same diameter threading (ie 58mm filter works with all 58mm lenses).

rob answers:

100-400mm f/4 is what the pro’s use and the 8-15mm L is the best canon fisheye…

rob answers:

Tokina, Tamron and Sigma are the only generics that I would recommend the risk spending any money buying.

Of those, Tokina is the only one I would seriously consider buying personally

It is usually prudent to buy a good used OEM lens than any generic. I have seen many good used Canon EF and EF-S lenses being sold. Look closer at them

rob answers:

First, and most important, the YN462 doesn’t support the E-TTL of your camera. So you’d have to use it the old-fashioned way – in manual.

Second, I didn’t see an actual Guide Number for it.

If the Canon flash units are too pricey for you then take a look at the offerings from Nissin. Http://www.nissindigital.com Their units are fully compatible with the E-TTL of your 50D.

For under $100.00 you can buy a new Vivitar 285HV which will work with your Canon if you don’t mind shooting in Manual. NOTE: The original Vivitar 285 would probably fry your 50D so make certain you get the 285HV.

The bottom line is I think the flash you linked us to is a waste of money.

rob answers:

I prefer the Canon 100BC it’s the best

rob answers:

Traditionally, ringlights are used with great success in portraiture. But typically, these are dedicated units that use an external power source (usually 115 VAC), like the ABR-800, by alienbees: http://www.alienbees.com/abr800.html. The ringflash in the link you posted is really intended for macro (close-up photography) work — but can still be used for a head and shoulders portrait, if you couldn’t afford a ringlight like the ABR-800 (which is really nice for portraits). But for the cost of a 580EX II speedlite, you can get the ABR and a sync cable, and find lots of use for it — at any rate, it would be worth it to save your money and get a better quality light.

rob answers:

It probably is incompatible. It can also fry your camera if the voltage is to high. This is why us brand snobs recommend you stick with the same brand as your camera. There are some third party makers that are good like Metz. You can also use Sigma or even Quantaray but I would never use a truly no name flash.

rob answers:

A JVC will beat all your choices

rob answers:

All the USM means is the motors are ultra sonic and quiet. If the noise doesn’t bother you, really not loud at all (it doesn’t bother me) you can save a few $$ but the one with out USM.

rob answers:

Also, don’t forget that when you are using the 85mm on the 500D or the 550D, the 1.6x crop factor will make it zoom even more. If you have the 50mm on your camera, it will give you a focal length of about 80mm. An 85mm will give you an effective focal length of almost 130mm. That means you will need a very large studio and you will have to be farther away from you model.
I recommend a 50mm. I use the f/1.8, but I’ve heard amazing things about the larger aperture versions.
Last tip, with such a wide aperture, be sure to focus on the eyes. If you focus on the nose, the eyes could easily be out of focus.

rob answers:

Image quality on both cameras will be virtually identical. Out of the box the photos may appear more or less colorful with one camera but this can be adjusted in the camera menus.

For the Nikon. You are correct that it does not have a focus motor but all of the Nikon AFs lenses have a built in motor. If you use any of these you will have auto focus. There are currently about 28 AFs lenses. All other lenses will mount but will not have auto focus.

For Canon you can use all EF and EFs lenses. The EFs lenses are designed for APS-C sized SLR’s. They will not work on the full frame cameras like the 5D MKII or the 1D series.

rob answers:

If your old Minolta SLR is not a Maxxum then the lenses will NOT mount to a Sony DSLR. Minolta introduced its SR bayonet mount in 1959 and then abandoned it for the A-mount when they introduced the world’s first full-featured auto focus SLR – the Maxxum 7000 – in 1985. There is an adapter to use the older SR mount lenses on the Maxxum cameras and the later Konica-Minolta DSLR cameras and the Sony DSLR cameras but you’re limited to manual focus and stop-down metering.

The A350 is being replaced by the A380.

Since Sony has their version of Image Stabilization in the camera body every lens used will become an IS lens. Nikon and Canon can’t say that since their versions of IS are in some of their lenses – but not all. A 25 year old Maxxum AF lens on the A350/380 will be an IS lens.

My vote goes to the A350/380.

rob answers:

The A350k would be the cheapest way to get into DSLR. You didn’t say whether the lenses are AF or not so if they are not, the old lenses will not be very convenient. A lot of things have changed with Canon since the 2MP days. If you have an external flash unit for the Minolta, it will work with the Sony also, but maybe not in TTL or AF mode, it depends.

The good thing about Sony cams is that the Image stabilizer is built into the body so the lenses will be cheaper.

The A350 has better low noise at high ISO’s compared to the A100, at lower ISO’s, they are all fine. DOF is pretty good no matter what lens you are using because you are stopped down and using the center of the lens anyway and DOF is a function of the f/stop and not the brand of the lens.

Sadly, Sony dumped the DOF preview button on their amateur models after the A100 (this feature is also lacking on the A200/A300/A350). It is also lacking on the stripped down Nikon DSLR’s like the D40. The D90 does have a DOF preview button near the base of the lens on the lower left side. The Canon 500D has the DOF preview on the right middle side next to the lens.

For the best bang for your buck, I would pick the Sony, but there are a lot of “pro” photographers who will thumb their noses at anything not Nikon or Canon. If you want to spend 10x for that last 1% in a professional lens, then Nikon and Canon are the way to go.