rob answers:

There are so many good products in the market its really difficult to choose one but I made up my mind to choose Nikon D3000 10.2MP Digital SLR camera and guess what I am very much satisfied. It is also cheap.

* 10.2megapixel CCD sensor
* 11-point autofocus system,
* Fast response,Guide mode,
* 3-inch TFT,
* 3 fps continuous shooting allows you to capture fast-moving action at 3 frames per second

http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-D3000-Digital-18-55mm-3-5-5-6G/dp/B002JCSV5I/?tag=pntsa-20

rob answers:

Lens every time.

Once you’re in the realms of DSLR’s there’s not going to be significant differences between sensors (some will perform better at high ISO’s but at lower ISO’s there;s little difference).

rob answers:

Here’s a look at some of the bags offered by the company I bought from. I like mine.
Http://www.tamrac.com/f_systemproonebody.htm

rob answers:

You have several that are quite nice, although not professional level yet. Overall they are better than the average basketball mom will be able to get. Have you thought about offering them for sell to the parents? I have parents coming to me at ball games, both baseball and basketball, although my grandkids are at the elementary school level. I have sold quite a few prints and CDs, and I am not even trying. I bet if you printed some cards, and showed a few samples, you’d get some orders. Just a thought…

rob answers:

Take your P&S and have fun. There are already enough professional photographers who have taken professional looking shots of Disneyworld. You don’t need to turn it into a workday shlepping the DSLR kit in Florida in August.

rob answers:

I’m assuming you mean something to store it safely while you’re on the boat and not something to use as an improvised underwater housing? An airtight container will work and I’m sure you could improvise a padding with some buble wrap. However, for not that much money you can also buy a dedicated case.
I like the products made by pelican. Come complete with interior padding, are ip-67 certified, available in really bright yellow (easy to find should it be thrown overboard) and most of these will also float. Take the 1150 for example, 29,50 at most retailers and it will float with 2.7kg of weight

rob answers:

As already stated, the canon EOS 550D (Europe), Rebel T2i (North America), and Kiss X4 Digital (Asia) are all the same camera:

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/ canon eos550d/

There is one important difference though: you only get a factory warranty if you buy the version that’s intended for your own region. If other versions are offered for sale they are known as gray imports. Due to the lack of a warranty, an import should be a little bit cheaper.

Also, if you’re in the USA and buy a Euro version, it might come with a plug for the battery charger that has 2 round prongs instead of 2 flat ones. Simply replace the plug and all will be well. If the manual is in a different language (possible, I suppose) you can download one. The camera’s software for the menus should always have an English language option.

rob answers:

For any camera that allows you to control the exposure settings; shutter speed, aperture, and ISO – regardless of whether it is a Canon, Nikon, Sony, or other brand, you must take the time to learn how to use it. Otherwise, you will end up with worse photos than if you used what is called a “point & shoot”, or a camera where everything is automatic.

The good news though is that most DSLRs have automatic controls too, which allows you to start taking decent photos while you learn how to use the camera.

But if you are asking if it is appropriate for family, I assume you are talking about having children use the camera? Rather than taking family photos?

I would not let a child use a camera such as the T2i, unless they are at least 13 years old, and they are responsible enough to realize that this is a precision instrument, not a toy. If it gets dropped, it will become broken.

However, I have a buddy that his 13yr old son has a Nikon D3100, but he is responsible enough to learn how to use and take care of it.

If you want a camera for smaller children, or older children that are not mature enough to be responsible, then consider a ruggedized camera, such as an Olympus Tough series. You can drop those, step on them, grind them into the mud, throw them into the washing machine, and so on.

Those would be more appropriate for smaller children.

If you are saying for family to take family photos, virtually any camera will do that. There are no cameras specialized only for taking family photos.

Http://www.althephoto.com

rob answers:

You need to use a Class 6 or higher SD card and one with enough memory.

rob answers:

Hello, I live in Canada and I purchased my Rebel T2i at Black’s Photo for $750 and it also came with the 18-55mm kit lens as well as a camera case.
The price range should be around $750-900. I’ve seen them sell package deals around this price at Black’s Photo, Best Buy, Don’s Photo and Futureshop.

rob answers:

It’s what you can’t see. And it’s the same reason that a dSLR can capture images so much better than a cheap compact. It’s the image sensor. In a dSLR the sensor has 8-12 times the surface area of the sensor in a compact. Camcorders in general use very tiny sensors and the optics vary and are dependent on price.

But there’s no free lunch. A really good camcorder will still have better controls and more flexibility than a dSLR. Also, holding a dSLR steady versus a large video camera are two totally different things. That’s why you see tons of tools and gadgets out there that are used to steady a dSLR. Most dSLR footage that doesn’t make use of a tripod, some handles or a steadycam set up can and usually will be shaky in a very annoying way. I don’t see autofocus in dSLRs while they are shooting either.

So while a dSLR can capture some really sharp video, it can require some work. I’ve read in several photo websites about TV shows that have used a dSLR to record an entire show, the TV show house comes up a lot. But what they articles fail to mention are the few hundred thousand dollars of stuff surrounding that dSLR, like the camera rig, the lighting, the people, someone pulling focus, a sound man, huge monitors, etc.

rob answers:

canon doesn’t rate the estimated usable life for video.
I believe they publish the 100,000 shutter data, because the shutter is a “moving part” which is likely to wear out over time.
With video, the shutter opens, and records video until you’re done, and then the shutter closes.

You could possibly record 30 minutes of video with only one shutter actuation.
Since the CCD doesn’t wear out, I don’t think you’ll have any problems (Unless you try recording while pointing at the sun or something dumb like that)

rob answers:

Not really. The video quality is very good, but it is not as good as the Panasonic GH1 with new video hack. You will also have to invest in a rails system and a follow focus.

rob answers:

One reason why is because of your memory card. Check and see what your memory card is and add it in the additional information. If the “class” is too low, then the card cannot handle the amount of data that is being put on it, so it stops.

Update: Does it have a number on it that is circled? That will tell me the class. This is the most important part.
If the number in the circle is below 6, you need to purchase a different one that is Class 6, or Class 10 (the one i have which runs fine)

rob answers:

The maximum duration of any ONE recording is 29m 59sec, Max file size 4GB (depending on card type and size). Some times SDHC and SD cards can have problems with buffering the images to the card, so this may also stop your filming. You either would then need to buy a higher grade card or downgrade the size of you footage. Even then you may still encounter problems unfortunately.

rob answers:

They are made for digital bodies so it should be safe for your camera. I haven’t used one myself but I’ve seen people use them as off-camera flashes on flickr. You could ask your supplier about the voltage or if you want to be 100% sure, put some freshly charged batteries in the flash, turn it on and measure the voltage on the contacts on the foot with a multimeter. If you don’t have/don’t know how to use one I’m sure you can find a friend that has one and knows how to use it.

rob answers:

This flash used to work fine with the old Rebel XT, so it probably works with the XSi. If it doesn’t you can manually set the camera based on the readings on the flash.

rob answers:

Put it into program mode, the P

and dont touch anything else!

Then click the SET button in the middle of the circle buttons and the sensor will open, revealing the live view on your screen. If you have auto focus enabled, press and hold the * button, its on the rights side, top, right by the click wheel. It also has a picture of a de-magnifier glass in blue. When you hear a beep it means the image is in focus, now just press the shutter release and snap the picture (:

hope i helped, the setting will remain AUTO as long as you dont change anything, but with a camera like that i sure hope you do start changing some of the settings with time.

rob answers:

String Quartet No. 2(Company) II by Kronos Quartet

rob answers:

* place your camera on a tripod
* put the shutter speed on bulb (manual mode)
* use a remote shutter release to lock the shutter open
* use a light emitting device like a penlight, LED or light stick to write your grafitti

Make adjustments in the lenses aperture to assure good exposure.

It may take a few attempts to get it right

rob answers:

The main words you use are “amateur film maker” not photographer.

Reading specs is fine but the main test is getting your hands on the cameras and trying them out, the stills camera will fall short as a good quality video camera, for a few reasons but the main one its not designed to be a video camera its a stills camera that can take video. You have a limit of the amount of video you can take at one time just under 4GB this can be for two reasons, either the file system is not designed for anything over that size (the same as fat32 and NTFS) or the camera will have over heating problems.

Mega pixels have no relevance to video, HD video is around 2mp so unless you are going to take stills as well, then its not a factor, if you are going to take stills, then unless you are going to blow the stills up into huge pictures, again its not going to be an issue,

read this http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/mpmyth.htm

Kindly sent to me by Iridflare very interesting!

A HDV tape based camera will by definition give you a better quality video, you are only limited to the length of the tape, 60 minutes. Every single froma of video is captured which cannot be said with the T2, and that is one of the huge pitfalls when it comes to editing.

Again specs are not the final say, try them out, when you have taken your video watch it back on a large screen TV instantly you will see why the Video camera is better than the stills, there will be no artefacts, especially on the edges of subjects.

There is no such thing as video on the cheap, (if you want high quality) I wish there was it would save me thousands, Sure some studios have started to use DSLR’s but they are not consumer cameras. -

You do not say what type of video you are planning to take, if there is any fast action then again the camera will fall behind very quickly as they type of video format it records does not capture fast action very well.

I am not going through your list as its going to take to long, but some of your “pros and cons” are not realistic, such as zoom, get closer, better to be closer than use zoom, basic first year student stuff, try a little experimant, if you have a camera zoom until you are about 10X then focus on a subject, maybe moving a little then keep the camera steady for 20 seconds you wont, there is not point in getting a camera with 20 X zoom if you cannot keep it steady, that will be the same for bothe cameras a professional camera man always has a tripod, with out fail. . Batteries you can get a belt battery pack, that will give you 8 hours plus. Weight you are in a better position to keep the camera steady, compared to the T2, “intimidates crowds of people” its your job to make people feel comfortable, part of being a professional cameraman.

A little information, Having been in the business for a while, (maybe to long) I have seen many “camera men” (just a term, not forgetting the ladies) come and go, more so today, its hard to get work, no one has money, but a huge part is to look professional, and act accordingly, turning up with a little DSLR is not going to give a good impression, people think big, big camera “means better pictures” and “professional” even if in reality its not right. If you get work (assuming you are any good) on a set, you will be there about the same amount of time it takes you to unpack you T2 and pack it back up. At least you will have half a chance with the Sony.

I wish you luck, just do one thing, make sure you are not one of the many so say “camera men” that profess to be “professional” but in fact know very little about the basics of camera work, it takes many years, but its worth it, when you see your video (or some of it) on the screen be it TV or, the movies. There is not better feeling.

RR

rob answers:

You are correct in your assumption. The 18-135mm lens has a wider focal distance range.

That being said, the biggest favor you could possibly do for yourself BEFORE purchasing a DSLR camera is to go read a couple basic books about DSLR photography and see if it is for you. You are talking about purchasing a camera that costs several hundreds of dollars with no real knowledge. Would you do such a thing when purchasing anything else? Probably not. I’m not trying to talk you out of DSLR photography, in fact I expect you will get even more excited after reading a couple books. But the only way you are going to be able to make an educated decision about this expensive purchase is to do some research and learning on your own.

Don’t be one of those people who spends $800.00 on a really nice DSLR camera and then uses it like a $100.00 point and shoot!

rob answers:

The kit lens those cameras come with is really not that good. There are a lot of people who already have their own lens collection and don’t need another one.

rob answers:

The usual

8gb class 6 (or better) SD card
Rocket blower (to clean the exterior and, if you dare, your sensor)
microfiber cloth or lens pen (to clean your lens)
Simple padded bag (to store and transport)

I’d highly recommend the lens hood for that lens, Canon’s EW-60C hood or a good clone.

Photoace always recommend a uv filter. I don’t. All depends on how clumsy you are. If you feel you must buy quality like hoya’s multicoated or super multicoated.

rob answers:

If your shooting style has overwhelmed the limitations of the kit lens, then yes. Otherwise it sounds to me like you’re putting the cart before the horse. The subject of your photography dictates the lens, not the other way around. I’d give vastly different answers for each kind of shoot.

For instance, with landscapes I select one or two of several different lenses – a 300 f/4 prime, a 180 f/2.8 prime, a 28-300 zoom, a 14mm prime, a cheap but beautiful 35-80 f/2.8 Tamron SP manual zoom; a 17-35 zoom. The lens used depends on the subject, how near or far, time of day, whether I’m compositing a pano, and so on.

The only rule about lenses that I follow: each must be the finest optical quality I can afford. And I bought each one only after I kept bumping up against the limitations of my existing set.

rob answers:

I’m a Nikon user, but here’s my two-cents.

Sounds like you have an older canon (XT, XTi, etc) like my brother has that uses CF memory cards. Now, unless you have a huge collection of CF cards like I do, and/or several extra batteries for your older canon DSLR, I wouldn’t decide on a replacement camera for those reasons only.

My thought are that you should go to a camera shop and handle each of the models currently available. See which one fits you and your shooting style.

Then, (and I have to admire canon for their Loyalty program – good work, canon ) I’d choose the “shoe that fits” you.

rob answers:

Nikon – I suggest you get a D7000 or higher.

Http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Digital-SLR- camera s/index.page

Canon – I suggest you get a EOS 7D or higher

http://usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/ camera s/slr_cameras

rob answers:

The new Nikon D3 full-frame sensor DSLR is comparable to the 5D.

However, good photographs are more dependent on the skill and expertise of the photographer than the camera used. If you know nothing about light and composition and f-stops and shutter speeds and ISO then you’re unlikely to get good photos with any camera.

rob answers:

You won’t have any choice other than an entry DSLR with a $500 budget. The few choices you do have are the following (descending by price):

– Canon EOS Digital Rebel XS / 1000D
(current base entry)
– Canon EOS Digital Rebel XTi / 400D
(entry flagship that preceded the current XSi)
– Canon EOS Digital Rebel XT
(update of the original Digital Rebel)

If you’re willing to spend about $150 more then you can buy Canon’s current entry-level flagship: the XSi.

You shouldn’t expect to get everything you’ll ever want in a single purchase of an entry level DSLR. The kit is very capable of ordinary shooting, but you’ll quickly discover that you’ll need to spend more to do more. This will be an unfortunate consequence of your foray into photography. I’ll do a quick run-down of your concerns:

“I’m planning on photographing portraits mainly, but I’m also interested in buildings and scenery (I know that mostly has to do with the type of lens, so what lenses would you recommend?) … I would prefer if the camera came with some lenses and other accessories and still be in my price range, but if it doesn’t, I’ll manage.”
– The recommended lenses for landscape and portraiture are quite different. Wide angle (24mm equiv. Is a pretty popular starting point) is suggested for landscapes and architecture while a fast normal or telephoto lens is suggested for portraiture. Of course, you can always experiment. If you like the results then who cares about any rules. The Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II is a nice lens for portraiture. It costs about $90 new, $70-80 used.

“High Resolution (this is the most important for me. I love small details like being able to see individual strands of hair)”
– This is more or less a property of the lens now. Current DSLRs have very good resolution. This shouldn’t be a concern unless you plan to print your pictures. High resolution is not necessary for digital viewing (TV, web sharing, digital picture frames, etc.).

“Ability to connect to my PC (with a USB cable of some sort)”
– All current Canon DSLRs include a USB cable for image transfer and remote shooting. Remote shooting software (Canon EOS Utility) is included with your purchase and enables you to control the camera with your computer.

“Optical Zoom (Leaning towards higher zoom)”
This is a property of the lens. The kit lens is a wide to short telephoto 3x zoom lens.

“Decent Battery Life (would like both rechargeable and standard batteries)”
The Rebels include a proprietary lithium ion battery and a charger. You can typically take 300-500 pictures on a single charge which is average for a DSLR. If that’s not enough for you, you can always buy more batteries or a battery grip for extended shooting.

“NO video, I don’t care for it. I wouldn’t use it.”
– Good. None of the current Rebels, with the exception of the recently announced T1i, have video features.

“Removable along with built in memory.”
– No DSLR has internal memory; only memory cards are used. The Canon XT and XTi use Compact Flash (type I, type II, and micro drives) memory cards while the XSi and XSi models use Secure Digital (SD and SDHC) memory cards.

“Hardly any Shutter Lag (not too concerned over this though)”
– One of the benefits of a DSLR: no noticeable shutter lag.

rob answers:

U are LUCKY !! All the Canon EF and EF-S lens are inter changable, i mean all the Canon digial camera can use old type(film type) of lens.
But, remember this, digital camera come with a 1.6x (not sure what it call…)
It means a 28mm lens, mount on a EOS 500N is equal to 28 mm power, but if 28 mm lens mount on EOS 400D, it is equal to 45 mm (28 x 1.6).
For your cast, 28-80 mm lens will become 45 – 128 mm, u will not get the 28 mm wide angle u want.

rob answers:

Many photographers will recommend that the canon 50mm, 1.8f fixed lens is a good purchase. It’s a very good all-purpose lens, very fast so it does well in low light, and the range is good for many subjects.

It’s also quite inexpensive, at around $100 dollars, I believe.

rob answers:

In order to keep up with some of the competition- it will have a 10Mp detector, image stabilization built in, and a larger LCD display.

If it doesn’t, maybe you should think about buying the new Sony A100.

Update:
The 400 was just announced today. Looks like a typical evolution. No IS, but 10mp and a bigger LCD. At least I got that right.

rob answers:

I would say b&h would be your best bet. They tend to have everything for a good price. Although adorama’s prices are the same i just think that b&h has a more to offer and exellent customer service.

rob answers:

What ever card it does take buy the appropriate card reader – they’re available where ever cameras are sold for little$$.

rob answers:

You will want to check out the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 the Tokina 12-24 f/4 and the Sigma 12-24 f/4 in addition to the Canon 10-22 f/3.5-5.6

rob answers:

No. Warranty is for factory mistakes not yours. This one will cost you to replace or repair and for the neck strap you should have been using.

rob answers:

50mm f1.8 or 35mm f1.8 or 24-70mm f2.8 L series.

3rd party lenses are ok … Sigma and Tamron being the most well known. I’d stick with canon lenses mainly due to the fact that 3rd party lenses are reverse engineered and there could be potential problems with compatibility with future bodies.

It doesn’t mean that there WILL be a problem but there could.

The Sigma 24-70 f2.8 is actually a farily decent lens (when compared to Canon’s simply awesome 24-70 f2.8 L) and is like 500$ or 600$ cheaper than the Canon version. I’m still going to get the Canon version mainly for the weatherproofing.

Either way, get the 50mm f1.8 … It;s dirt ceap at 140$ and pretty decent image quality for the price.

rob answers:

Can you imagine any camera maker producing a camera that is NOT both PC and Mac compliant?

One Canon or Nikon camera for Macs and one for PC’s? They would go out of business in just a few months

Here is how their sensors compare and you will see that they are nearly identical

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Cameras/Compare-Camera-Sensors/Compare-cameras-side-by-side/(appareil1)/645%7C0/(appareil2)/692%7C0/(appareil3)/698%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Canon/(brand2)/Canon/(brand3)/Nikon

For video, don’t forget the accessories you will need

http://www.redrockmicro.com/redrock_dslr.html

http://advance-camera-inc.amazonwebstore.com/category/54370454501/1/DSLR-Video-Accessories.htm

http://www.switched.com/2010/05/24/essential-dslr-accessories-for-shooting-oscar-worthy-hd-video/

http://www.photographyblog.com/news/letus_talon_and_hawk_dslr_video_accessories/

rob answers:

A solid idea and the effort to execute.

Blair Witch Project was done with simply a few small cameras. It can be done but depending on what you’re shooting, there is a very good reason a 55-250 4-5.6 will not be good enough. But you the filmmaker will need to know why. Also, all the money and skill in the world can’t help if your idea and execution is lagging; as 99% of movies since 1990 forward have shown.

rob answers:

Always amuses me, people admit to no knowledge and yet they’ve already picked out a brand and model.

Anyway, fine selection, just the 60mm will be a bit short for insect macros.

rob answers:

I use the canon Speedlite 580EX II, which I like a lot… The 430EX and 430EX II are a little cheaper and work pretty well too.

rob answers:

You will find this site interesting;
http://lightingmods.blogspot.com/2008/04/tip-how-to-find-shutter-actuations.html

rob answers:

RStars sort of has it right.

You need a LARGE aperture like f/1.8. A small aperture is like f/22.

There are three things that produce a good out of focus background.

Large aperture
Medium telephoto lens
Subject close to the lens (as close as the lens focuses) produces the best results.

You use of the term “Brokeh effect” is interesting.

More on Bokeh.

Http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/bokeh.htm

How different lenses effect Bokeh

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/bokeh-comparison.htm

rob answers:

You would be able to view what Included with each camera

Canon XS

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/ camera s/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_xs_18_55is_kit#BoxContent

Canon 60d
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_60d#BoxContent

rob answers:

Yes, any of the EF lenses will work on all Canon DSLRs.

rob answers:

Ya

rob answers:

All dSLR camera s use CMOS sensors and they generate a lot of heat. For this reason, the camera will shut off to prevent damage to the sensor. This can vary, but usually three to four minutes is the maximum time you can record in one take when shooting at Full HD video (1080p)

If you shoot from a script, you will not have to worry about shooting longer than a few minutes at a time in any case

rob answers:

Ok its a fairly simple process:

1. Plug your T2i in via USB to your Mac
2. Open iPhoto
3. Use the iPhoto importer to take the video from your T2i and put it into your iPhoto Library
4. Open up iMovie
5. GoTo File>Inport>Movies
6. A window will appear scroll down on the left side till you see iPhoto
7. Select the video that you imported earlier via iPhoto and press Import

Your video will now be imported into iMovie and you can now edit them. If you wish you can now also delete the video from your iPhoto Library if you wish.

rob answers:

They take the same quality video. The sensor and the processor (except the 7d has 2 of them) are the same, so the only difference will be on the still pictures side. The main thing is that the 7d can do 8 fps burst shooting and the t2i only does 4. Save the extra few hundred dollars and put it towards some nice L series glass.

rob answers:

Yes, although all those controls are usully found on real video cameras which includes full 48-kHz/16-bit digital audio on four channels

Review:

http://www.dpreview.com/products/Canon/slrs/canon_eos600d/review

Look through the user manual and see what features the 600D does have

On page 160 of the user manual will tell you how to set that up

http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/0/0300004720/01/eosrt3i-eos600d-im-en.pdf

rob answers:

The T3i features canon’s newest DIGIC 4 image processor and a native ISO range from 100 to 6400 (expandable to 12800). Exposure metering uses a dual layer 63 zone sensor and AF is accomplished via a 9-point system with a cross-type center point. The camera is compatible with canon’s EF and EF-S lens lines, accepts SD/SDHC/SDXC memory media and is offered as a body only or in kits paired with 18-55 or 18-135mm stabilized zoom lenses; our review unit was the latter kit. canon includes an eyecup, camera strap, AV and USB cables, battery pack and charger and CD-ROM software with each camera.

rob answers:

To sum it up, auto focusing in any line of Canon Eos series of camera in movie mode is impossible. This is because I actually don’t know, its like that way for years, and I think its just a marketing scheme. But manul focusing isn’t that bad, thankgod for T3i’s external mic input so you don’t have to hear your self trying to focusing and touching the camera and lens. You know sounds thats scratchy when you skimp over material. The external mic doesn’t record the sound of you touching your camera.

rob answers:

The T3i features Canon’s newest DIGIC 4 image processor and a native ISO range from 100 to 6400 (expandable to 12800). Exposure metering uses a dual layer 63 zone sensor and AF is accomplished via a 9-point system with a cross-type center point. The camera is compatible with Canon’s EF and EF-S lens lines, accepts SD/SDHC/SDXC memory media and is offered as a body only or in kits paired with 18-55 or 18-135mm stabilized zoom lenses; our review unit was the latter kit. Canon includes an eyecup, camera strap, AV and USB cables, battery pack and charger and CD-ROM software with each camera.

rob answers:

The 18-55mm lens uses a 58mm filter. The UV(0) is the “normal” filter used for protection of lenses.

If you look at the end of your lenses it will have a Ø symbol followed by a number, that is the filter size for that particular lens (for example…Ø58mm, 72mmØ, etc.).

Just remember….a cheap filter can adversely affect your photos. Always buy a reputable filter such as Hoya, Tiffen, Cokin, B&W, etc.

Such as:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/652130-REG/Hoya_A58UVC_58mm_Ultraviolet_UV_0_Haze.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/11967-REG/B_W_65070113_58mm_Ultraviolet_UV_Filter.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/23740-REG/Hoya_X58UV_58mm_Ultraviolet_UV_0_Super.html

rob answers:

The 18-55 kit lens that comes with the camera. After you have used that lens for about a year you will have a pretty good idea of what other lens(es) you might need in the future. Do not start buying lenses until you have quite a bit of experience with your DSLR…you’ll just end up wasting a bunch of money.

rob answers:

No, Rebel XSi is not old, but if you feel limited, your next step should be t2i or t3i.

Here is a comparison between t2i and 7d, I know they are different, but unless you are doing pro work, I think you can get same results from t2i if you know how to use and if you have good lenses.

Http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYif6YYVlAw

I would suggest investing in lenses, if you want to be a good photographer.

rob answers:

I love canon and the 1D and 5D’s etc are GREAT camera’s.
The thing with buying second hand is that I would check how many shots it’s taken. And do some research with canon. I think anything over 10,000 would have me questioning whether it would be worth paying that much. How old is it etc?

I own a 500D (best I could afford at the time), but I’ve heard the Rebel is also a great camera and can take some great shots. I would probably go with the higher pixels.

rob answers:

Aperture-The hole in the lens that lets light in. The bigger the number of the aperture (also known as f/ stop) the less amount of light that is let in. So an aperture that is f/16 is smaller than an aperture of f/5.6. The aperture works in conjunction with ISO and shutter speed.

ISO- This determines how sensitive the sensor is to light. Since you are using a digital camera, you can freely change the ISO, compared to when film was used and you were committed to a specific ISO of a film. ISO for your camera will range from about 100-6400. A 100 ISO is mainly used for sunny days, while ISO 800 and above should be used in low light situations because they allow more light to hit the sensor. If you use too high of an ISO, your images may contain noise.

Telephoto lens- A long focus lens, usually used to take pictures of things in the distance.

rob answers:

Lenses are expensive, so if you personally don’t have any money, get your parents to buy a cheaper body with a couple of lenses thrown in instead of just one expensive body. The lens is important, not the body.

What will happen is that your parents will buy you a 60D/D7000 and you will have no money to buy a better walkabout lens, or a macro lens. Look at lens prices THEN look at body prices.

If I was you I’d be looking at the Sony A55 or A580 for example. There are hundreds of cheap Minolta lenses on eBay and the Sony sensor used in the D7000 is the same as the one in the A55/A580

Also consider Pentax, they are doing some excellent bodies lately.

If you insist on Canon/Nikon then get the 40D/50D/D90 range.

rob answers:

You didn’t mention what kind or how many lenses you have for your Minolta.

If you have auto focus Minolta lenses, they will work with any Sony Alpha dSLR. But if they are manual lenses, or you just want to move away from Sony/Minolta I don’t think it really matters what brand you go with, it’s all about how high up the chain you go.

While dSLRs are getting better every year, and they are certainly much better than they were 5 or 6 years ago, some of the things you want are simply going to cost you more money.

If you want to take photos of people in low light, fireworks, people or things lit only by candles etc the entry level dSLRs from Sony, Canon and Nikon might not take that clean of a shot in low light. You can help things a bit with faster glass or glass with larger aperture, but again, it’s going to cost extra bucks.

I shoot Sony Alpha, but if I had to choose between Nikon and Canon I’d go Nikon every time, the controls just seem more intuitive and they use Sony image sensors. All dSLRs can change their lenses out by the way so it’s all about what you want to shoot and how much you can afford. Also, every dSLR from Canon to Pentax will give you full manual controls, full auto and just about anything in between.

Shooting in good light is cheap, getting great shots at night that are clean and sharp that costs more and requires more skill on your part. I think the bang for the buck with Nikon might be the D3100 or D5100. If you could swing the extra money, Nikon’s D7000 delivers the cleanest photos in low light for the dollar hands down. Right next to that would be Sony’s Alpha dSLR the A580, (Nikon’s D7000 has the same Sony image sensor) but Sony’s camera is about 300+ bucks less than the Nikon.

It loses the mag alloy body, some weather sealing, rear control dial among other things to bring the price down. The Sony A580 is about 800 bucks body only, if you have any Minolta auto focus lenses, you won’t have to buy glass! But of course you can always by different lenses down the road.

rob answers:

Since the EOS 300V have an EF mount, then the answer would be yes. All canon EOS lenses can be used to a canon Digital EOS bodies – except if you’re talking about the newer EF-S lenses which can only be used in Canon’s APS-C DSLRs.

So, I believe that your 28-105mm and 75-300mm will fit into the newer DSLR.

For that kind of budget I would recommend an EOS 350D, or an EOS 400D if you can get it at that kind of price. These two are a very good camera and you don’t have to get a second hand camera with that kind of budget (well except if you plan to get more accessories along with your camera).

rob answers:

You get what you pay for !
A generic one might have to be programmed to work on the camera.

rob answers:

The top rated entry level SLRs are Nikon’s D40, D60 and D80 and Canon’s Xti and XSi.

The best thing to do it trying them all in a store, you’ll know which one YOU like best. Personally I like them all, but leaning somewhat to the Canon XSi. But it’s a matter of what you like and what you want to spend on a camera.
The D40 is the least expensive and still a favorite for a starter DSLR.

rob answers:

You sure can. All EF lenses can be used on both film and digital Canon cameras. The only lenses that your film camera can not use are the EFs lenses these are designed specifically for the cropped sensors on DSLR cameras. For instance many DSLR cameras come with a EFs 18-55mm lens. This would be the equivalent to the EF 28-90mm lens that comes with many film cameras.

The reason why Canon produces these EFs lenses is that because of the cropped sensor (smaller than 35mm film) the field of view is magnified by 1.6

This is great for a telephoto lens. Your 200 mm lens becomes a 320mm lens. On the wide angle end you lose out. This is why Canon has lenses like the EFs 18-55 mm and the EFs 10-22mm.

Bottom line make sure it is an EF lens and not an EFs lens and you will have no problems.

rob answers:

I work in a photography and have several canons, one being a canon eos 2000 film and a rebel xs 10 mp. Most people will never use over 5mp which equals about a 8×10 picture with clear detail and no distortion or pixelation. Your camera will do the job and do it well.

rob answers:

Define “best.”

The high end Speedlite is the 580EX. Not only does it have maximum power, but it will also wirelessly control other Speedlites.

There’s a 580EX II on its way to market that replaces the 580EX. It recycles faster and supposedly yields better exposures.

The 430EX is also good, but with less power.

You can find an older version of the 580, the 550EX online at e-Bay, or from used camera dealers. While slightly less powerful than the 580EX, it’s still got a lot of punch, and it’s much less expensive now.

The real question is what you want to do with the flash. This is the biggest question you need to answer. Will you be shooting where you need maximum power — large rooms, dark banquet halls, etc., or will you be shooting at home, where less power is needed? Will you be planning to use multiple flashes? Is size a factor?

Unfortunately, there’s no good way for anyone else to answer those questions.

If budget is not a concern, go large.

rob answers:

Both cameras can do the job … There is no “better” with those two camera’s … What is better is the technique of the photographer

I use a D300 with a 12-24 mm and D3 with 24-70 mm f/2.8 when shooting concerts.

There is no XTi2 … Maybe you are thinking of the new XSi?

rob answers:

It’s just recharging the flash – if the camera battery is low on power, that might be making the situation worse. Perhaps the camera’s battery isn’t holding it’s charge the same – you could try replacing it.

The truth is the built in flash on most cameras is pretty useless. An external flash unit like the 430EX will help immensely. For a start, it’s not powered by the camera.

A professional photographer would be unlikely to use on-camera flash. It’s just not good enough.

rob answers:

Shoot in RAW mode, or go into the second menu tab (camera icon2), select picture style, press set you will find various profiles in this tab, select standard, p78 of manual

rob answers:

People ask if Nikon is better than Canon all the time and we say that it would be the same as trying to decide if Ford was better than Chevy. Your question is like asking if a Lincoln MKZ is better than a Chevy Malibu. Apples and oranges, if you know what I mean.

We don’t know a thing about you as a photographer so it would be hard to answer.

If you know how to use a fine DSLR, then the D300 is head and shoulders above the XTi. If you want those “helpful” modes that are identified with icons of a little running man, a mountain, and a flower, then you’d better stick to the XTi. Or a D90…

Either camera is capable of producing any kind of images you wish to make.

We need to know more about you to say which is a better choice for you.

rob answers:

Since I only recommend what I own and therefore know, I’d say the canon . I have two of their dslr camera s, the 1000D and the 500D and both are excellent. Like the 550, my 500 does crisp, clear video as well.

canon, the only clear choice.

rob answers:

XSi:
-Cheaper
-Very similar pictures to other two models

T1i:
-Middle ground
-Video capability
-Video on full automatic settings only

-T2i:
-Most expensive
-30FPS @ 1080P video capable
-Video on manual settings allowed.
-Better metering system

So, do you need manual settings in video mode, 30FPS 1080P video, or a better metering system? If not, look at the T1i or XSi. From there, do you need video at all? If not, get the XSi. If you do need video, choose the T2i if you need 30FPS @ 1080P video or video on manual settings, or the T1i if you don’t care about those things.

Personally, since I don’t use video, my vote is for the XSi. Image-wise, it takes very close if not the same pictures as the other two camera s. As a beginner, you’re better off going with a cheap body and high quality lenses than the other way around.

As with lenses, try the EF-S 18-135mm IS lens, or the 28-135mm IS USM lens. Better reach than the 18-55mm lens, slightly better optical quality, and the 28-135mm has an ultrasonic AF motor, which is both faster and quieter than the standard AF motor.

If you’re planning low-light, you should also look at fast lenses. The 50mm f/1.8 is a cheap yet fast lens, and with its large max aperture, is very well suited for portraits (narrow DoF) and low-light situations.

Hope that helps!

rob answers:

I’d say go with T2i, i’ll list the reasons:
-Much higher resolution screen.
-Much larger screen.
-Higher resolution movies (shoots higher resolution Full HD (1080p) video).
-Much higher true resolution.
-Supports 24p.
-Has an external mic jack (to record high quality audio with an external microphone).
-Better image quality.
-More dynamic range.
-Has a self cleaning sensor.
-Significantly smaller.
-Slightly lower noise at high ISO.
-Slightly better color depth.
-Shoots faster.
-Significantly thinner.
-Slightly larger sensor.

I dont think you need any more reasons to consider the T2i instead of the T3! I’d also suggest you read this review to help you in making a decision:

http://www.amazon.com/review/ROZ8Z9JAOHPCP/ref=cm_cr_pr_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B0035FZJI0&nodeID=&linkCode=&sourceid=md.ds&tag=famavca-20

This is the best deal i could find for it:

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-T2i-3-0-Inch-Body-Only/dp/B0035FZJI0/ref=cm_rdp_product&sourceid=md.ds&tag=famavca-20

Read the specs and other details about the T3 to compare the two:

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-Rebel-Digital-18-55mm-Movie/dp/B004J3Y9U6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1321490293&sr=1-1&sourceid=md.ds&tag=famavca-20

rob answers:

Glass glass glass! Always! I’m no expert on landscape photography but I would get a polarising filter, and you should have a UV filter on every lens you have all the time to protect the lens glass – it’s maybe $50 to protect hundreds of dollars worth of investment! You should look into Neutral Density filters too, they’re very useful.

rob answers:

Hi,

550D has less noise, better video, better sensor, better LCD screen. 500D is one of the noisiest models out there, don’t get it!

Sure the 50mm f/1.8 is great but trust me, 550D is one amazing camera . In low light 550D will be better due to less noise, and yes, it has a lot with settings-

Sensor quality = 550D
Size = 99% the same, but 550D has overall better design.

There are no cons. There are simply things you can’t do, like not put them into your pocket, have to learn a bit about settings etc. They become pros after time.

Here’s a DSLR Buying Guide – http://www.the-dslr-photographer.com/2009/11/which-dslr-to-buy/