rob answers:

Well if you feel like being illegal, well you can download Utorrent and go to Thepiratebay.org and illegally download ANY editing program for free. Its kind of a pain in the ass unless you know a thing or two about downloading stuff to your computer. Other than that, do u have a mac or pc? I have a PC so windows movie maker is aiight, but i dont think that the t2is format works with Movie maker.

rob answers:

EF (Electronic Focus) refers to the electronic lens mount. The mechanical lenses are known under the letters FD.

S is for Short Back Focus. A lens design for a crop sensor body. Crop bodies can use either EF or EF-S lenses. FF (Full Frame) bodies can only use EF lenses

18-55 is the focal length range. A prime lens (or fixed focal) would have only one number. Zooms always have two: the shortest and longest focals.

F/3.5-5.6 is the maximum aperture. In this case, at 18mm the lens opens up to f3.5 and at 55mm it opens up to f5.6. If you only had one number it would mean that the maximum aperture is the same throughout the focal length range which would make it more expensive. When it comes to aperture, the smaller the number, the bigger the aperture or the more light let in.

IS is Image Stabilization or vibration reduction which allows to handhold shots are slower speeds.

rob answers:

I have the same camera with the same lens. There is only zoom on the lenses you attach to the camera – the camera body itself cannot zoom in to take photos.

The + and – buttons are simply for checking out pictures after you take them or for magnifying what the camera sees in the Live View screen while taking photos. Press the + button once while shooting photos with the Live View screen and the camera with magnify the picture a certain amount, press it twice and it will magnify it even more, while a third press will take you back to normal view.

This magnification function while taking photos allows you to focus more accurately as tiny details are a lot clearer and well, magnified. Hope that helps.

rob answers:

Are you focusing on the subject before you start the video?

rob answers:

Its a great camera you will definitely love it

The lens you have is a very good one. 50mm used to be THE lens that camera companies were judged by so a 50mm lens from Canon or Nikon will be exceptional.

One thing you should keep in mind is that on a T2i since the image sensor is smaller than on a full 35mm frame you will have a crop factor of 1.6 so you should multiply the focal length of any camera you have by 1.6 to see what focal length equivalent you will have.

Your 50mm will be an 80mm equivalent on that camera which might be the same as it has always been if you are upgrading from a Digital SLR or will look much narrower if you are upgrading from a film SLR

rob answers:

What price range?

If you’re looking for something to compliment your 18-55 you may look into a 75-300mm lens, or if that’s just too long the 28-135 3.5-5.6 IS is a pretty good walk around lens. It’s not great close in (28mm) but for out in the yard or at the park it’s a good focal length.

The 24-70 that was mentioned above me blows either of these lenses away, but it cost’s over $1k.

rob answers:

Wow u should really read the book if you’re going to buy that kind of a camera …

rob answers:

It’s actually very easy to do.

This guide should help you out…

Http://www.photoguides.net/light-graffiti

As far as changing your aperture goes, just change the dial on your camera to either A or M. A is Aperture priority and M is manual mode.
You can find out more about these settings here…

Http://www.photoguides.net/understanding-your-camera

Hope that helps
–
Ash Davies

rob answers:

Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR camera
# DIGIC III image processor provides fast, accurate image processing; Live View Function
# EOS Integrated Cleaning system and Canon-designed Self Cleaning Sensor Unit, plus Dust Delete Data Detection in included software
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CBKJGG?ie=UTF8&tag=bestdeals-y-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001CBKJGG

rob answers:

Take it in

rob answers:

The T2i shoots high definition video, You don;t need to buy anything even close to that expensive for Youtube video posts.

rob answers:

1. Open box camera came in.
2. Find manual
3. Read manual
4. Go to library or bookshop
5. Look for books on basic photography
6. Buy or borrow one or two of them
7. Read them and learn.

rob answers:

DSLR – Digital Single lens Reflex. A camera with one lens that when you look through the eye piece, you are actually looking through the lens with the help of various mirrors.

Aperture- The lens setting that allows more or less light through a lens, and into the camera. Think of it as a small hole, (f16 or f22) or a large hole (f1.8 or f2.8)

Macro- Close up

ISO- the sensitivity of your camera sensor to the light. At ISO 100, the camera sensor needs more light to get a proper exposure. Conversly, at ISO 800, it requires less light to make a correct exposure. ISO 100-200 is for bright sun, ISO 400 is kind of an all around ISO, or one to use indoors with a flash. ISO 1600 is for dark scenes, like night time sports under stadium lights, or indoor basketball (normally for when a flash isn’t possible).

F 1/8 ???? Probably f8 or f1.8. F1.8 lets in a lot of light, f8 is somewhere in the middle of the apertures, depending on the lens.

Image stabilization lens is one that allows for lower shutter speeds because it has a gyro in the lens to minimize vibration.

rob answers:

Buy a Lenspen sensor cleaner. Make sure you buy the genuine article, there are many rip-off imitations around.
Http://www.lenspen.com/

rob answers:

You should start with the 18-55 kit lens. After you have used that lens heavily for several months, you will understand your new camera and your style of photography to make an educated decision as to what additional lens(es) you require.

Trying to pick lenses without having a good deal of experience with DSLRs often leads to the purchase of expensive lenses that sit on the shelf.

rob answers:

More megapixels can mean more noise. With today’s offerings, megapixels are no longer a concern. Anything over 6 is fine. The 40D is a more professional body than the Rebel, but the XSi is slightly newer technology.

If it’s a choice between those two, pick the semi-pro 40D over the amateur XSi. The construction is sturdier, the controls will probably be better, and it will perform faster. Take a look at the reviews on dpreview.com. Check the conclusion and the image tests. Good luck!

rob answers:

There is nothing wrong with the 18-55mm lens you have.

Here is what I’d likely want in my bag:

Canon EF-S 10-22mm f3.5-5.6 USM, $789.00
alternative – Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6D EX DC HSM, $479.00

Canon EF 50mm f1.4 USM, $399.00

Canon EF 100mm f2.8 USM Macro, $639.95

I’d want the Canon or Sigma ultra wide angle lens for landscapes and for interiors where there is a lot of light.

I’d want the 50mm f1.4 for indoors where there is limited light and a flash is forbidden. It also makes a good portrait lens.

I’d want the 100mm macro for medium telephoto pictures and to capture fine detail up close. Its also useful for candid people photography since you can be farther away from your subject.

Of course, you could go with the Canon EF-S 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 IS and eliminate the 18-55mm you have and the 100mm macro I suggested. $595.00. I’d still want the 10-22mm/10-20mm and the 50mm f1.4 though.

A minimum kit would be the 18-200mm and the 50mm.

All prices are from B&H – http://www.bhphotovideo.com

I suggest reading this book before making any lens selection:
“David Busch’s Quick Snap Guide to Using Digital SLR Lenses” by David Busch. Http://www.dbusch.com He also worte a Guide for your camera . Its worth buying.

Additional suggested reading:

“Understanding Exposure” and “Understanding Shutter Speed”, both by Bryan Peterson.

“The Art of Digital Photography” by Joseph Meehan.

rob answers:

NO, your canon does not take blurry pics.

YOU take blurry pics by not setting your camera properly for the specific circumstances.

Indoors you will need a large aperture to get anywhere near handheld speed which for most inexperienced photographers is 1/60 or above.
If the subjects are moving at all then the images will be blurry.

rob answers:

Lay the strap flat, with the Canon logo downwards. Place the camera infront of it with the lens facing away from you. Pick the strap up and turn it over to check the writing is the right way round (it should be the right way up as you look at it from this angle). Put the strap back down.

Take the left hand end of the strap, without twisting it, feed it upwards through the hole for it on the left of the camera . Feed it back through the two fittings, following the line it already takes. This just doubles up the strap through each of the fittings, holding it in place.

There is no need to put a twist into the strap at any point.

Repeat the process on the right hand side. Up and through, loop round, through the two fittings. Once its done check everything is tight before trusting the strap with your new camera.

rob answers:

It would have been helpful if you had told us what type of lenses you had, i.e. What fit.

If you were using tamron t2 type MF lenses then with the appropriate adaptor they would operate as normal, excpet for a focal length convervsion of approx 1.6x (beacuase of the cropped sensor)

If you are using Cannon FD, Pentax K, Nikon F, Minolta MD or similar then the good news is that there will probably be an adaptor to fit.

Thats where the good news kind of ends:

-The lens will be subject to the afforementioned 1.6x crop. Makes the lens more tele, which kills wide angle optics.

-The lens will either lose infinity focus, or IQ will be degraded by a conversion element.

-This element and the physical width of the adaptor will further increase the effective focal length conversion.

-You will need to focus manually, which isn’t easy on a rebel for a few reasons: No split prism, small pentamirrors, darker lightbox, you should still get focus confirmation though.

-You will need to control aperture at the lens, and will need to use stop down metering, which will further darken the viewfinder, so focus first, expose and check depth of field second.

-The lenses may have uncoated internal elements, this is a particular problem with the back element, as it can reflect light back off of the sensor causing ‘ghosting’.

All in all, unless you have exceptional quality MF lenses I wouldn’t bother adapting them. They will strangle the ease of use and image quality of the 450D.

rob answers:

When i shoot videos on my t2i, i use f/1.8 – 2.8, manual focus on my subject…if your lens isn’t really fast then just try the lowest fstop

rob answers:

I’m a canon guy and I always recommend what I own and therefore know. I have a Rebel XS and an
eos t1i – both are excellent and I know in my heart of hearts that the t2i will be excellent as well.

Also, we’ve begun to see some problems here with Pentax, various things.

Besides that consider that canon is one of only two brands chosen by professionals all over the world for many good reasons. Really, you can’t go wrong with Canon.

rob answers:

We’re beginning to read about problems with Olympus – early problems that just shouldn’t be there.
I have yet to see one real, true equipment with Canon.

I have two Canon dslr cameras and they’re both excellent – the t2i to be sure.

rob answers:

The T2i (also known as the 550D) is an excellent dSLR. The EF 50mm f/1.8, even though it’s very cheap, plasticky and toylike…has very good optical quality and makes a great portrait and lowlight lens. You’ve done your homework.

From the review below…
“Despite our (very minor) complaints, the EOS 550D is a very satisfying camera, and certainly offers the most compelling feature set of any nominally ‘entry level’ DSLR that we’ve used. It isn’t just about spec though – the 550D’s refined handling and excellent supplied software suite should not be overlooked. Although it doesn’t represent a huge improvement over the 500D, the changes that have been made are worthwhile, and well-implemented. An external mic socket, manual control and wide choice of resolutions and frame rates means that the 550D is worthy of consideration for serious video use, and when paired with a high quality lens, image quality is superb.”

and…”With all this taken into account, it is hard not to recommend the EOS 550D. Quite simply, taken as a whole, it is the best camera of its class that we’ve ever seen, and one of those rare cameras that won’t look out of date in a couple of years’ time.”

good luck…

rob answers:

I think you should go with Canon EOS Rebel T2i 18 MP CMOS APS-C Digital SLR Camera
* 18.0-megapixel CMOS (APS-C) sensor;
* DIGIC 4 image processor for high image quality and speed
* ISO 100-6400 (expandable to 12800) for shooting from bright to dim light;
* enhanced 63-zone, Dual-layer metering system
* Improved EOS Movie mode with manual exposure control and expanded recording 1920 x 1080 (Full HD)
* Wide 3.0-inch Clear View LCD monitor;
* Dedicated Live View/Movie shooting button
* New compatibility with SDXC memory cards,
* Plus new menu status indicator for Eye-Fi support

rob answers:

Hey,

Probably some are RAW files.

Here’s a good free RAW file viewer and you can save them as .jpeg too and get all info out (once the photo is opened, press i).

Here – http://www.faststone.org/FSViewerDownload.htm

Many people, including me use it. It’s awesome!

rob answers:

Yes, the owners manual would probably be a great place to start. There are also some great tutorials about the T2i on youtube that are very informational. Lastly, if you are having trouble mastering the settings in M or Av, try turning off the flash in the CA (creative auto mode) or I believe there is a simple No flash mode as well. These are both one above and one below the green auto mode on the wheel.

rob answers:

Hey,

Buying a T2i for your first DSLR would be the best option right now. Its much better than any other DSLR from competition at same price.

It has an Auto mode, though I recommend you to slowly start with Manual mode. It has manual focus (all lenses).

It’s like your old SLR, but with an LCD, less noise than all of those films, great video and other stuff.

Here’s a review of the T2i: http://www.the-dslr-photographer.com/2010/06/canon-eos-550dt2i-dslr-review.html

Here’s a post called ‘Buying a DSLR, what’s important, megapixels, features, brand, price, quality and which one to buy – http://www.the-dslr-photographer.com/2009/03/which-dslr-to-buy.html

Good luck! The site has many more tutorials, tips, reviews and guides!

rob answers:

The Canon Deluxe Backpack 200EG is a water resistant back pack made to hold 1-2 Canon digital SLR cameras with 3-4 lenses, flash and accessories. It has a carry handle and detachable strap. There are front and side pockets for accessories and tripod straps on the bottom of the backpack.

rob answers:

50mm f1.8 prime. It’s about 80 euros here in Europe, and quite a decent lens for amateur photographers.
Welcome to Europe, hope you enjoy your time here.

rob answers:

A camera will last a lot longer if you take the time to care for it. Keep it in a well padded case with desiccant gel packs (to absorb moisture), and the battery removed when not in use. Cleaning your mirror will be covered in the camera’s manual, and I would suggest leaving the sensor cleaning to a shop.

I use my camera outdoors year round. The best winter tips I can offer is to keep your batteries warm (inside a coat or pants pocket), your lens acclimated to the temperature ( a warm lens will fog over and get condensation on the glass), and have plenty of desiccant gel packs in your gear case (to absorb the moisture).

I have a shoot Friday in a park. I will put my gear (without the batteries) in my trunk an hour or so before I leave… That way, by the time I get on-site everything is stabilized temperature wise.

I also do the same thing in the summer…taking a camera from an A/C environment into the summer heat will cause the lenses to fog over until they get warmed up.

rob answers:

You didn’t read your manual thoroughly. I just hook my Nikon up to my computer, turn it on, open the browser on Paint Shop Pro (or Windows Explorer), and open the folder/move it to my HD.

rob answers:

Not a big fan of consumer HD video and it extremely high compression rates, especially with action.

But given your question, I’d stick with letting a DSLR do the still photos and get a video camera for video.

If you are happy with the XS, stick with it. You can enlarge to well past 24″ x 30″.

The T2i will be limited to a little less than 4 gig clips (about 15 minutes on high res). It also has to hold its mirror up out of the way of the sensor while video is being shot…a drain on batteries and service life of the mirror.

As far as the HF21, make sure you will use it’s features over the HF R10 or R100 all of which use the same H.264 compression. While the 1/4″ sensor is nice, when your video is compressed at least 200:1 it is hard to see any difference between a 1/4″ sensor and a 1/5.5″ sensor.

Frankly, given your use, I’d go with the standard def ZR 960 for $250.00. When up-converted to HD with editing software it is still only an equivalent compression of 36:1 and will out-perform any so called HD camera under $2500 (Where true HDV kicks in).

Better yet, look for a good used GL-2 which have been as low as $600-700 on e-Bay.

HD is pure marketing and a step backward from MiniDv. MiniDv is uncompressed in brightness and only 6:1 compressed in the color channels. It fell out of favor in the consumer market because people did not want to deal with tapes, or buy the extra Horsepower a computer needs to edit (Will require a firewire port). MiniDv has a minimum 20% more data for up to 1/6th the frame size of HD.

rob answers:

Its a good solid beginners SLR.

rob answers:

If your tring to increase the aperture size (lower f number) you may not be able to becuase your zoomed in and that is the largest aperture available at the zoom length.

I’m guessing your using the 18-55mm lens that came with the camera. The f range is f3.5 – f5.6 on that lens. The f3.5 can only be achieved when your zoomed all the way out. F5.6 is the largest you can achieve when zoom all the way in. Hence the 18-55mm f3.5-f5.6 rating on the lens.

If you trying to decrease the aperture (or bigger f number) press the a/v button on the back. While holding that down spin your dial and the number should increase.

Edit:
Are you spinning it to the right or the left?
Are you trying to increase the aperture or decrease it?
And are you using the 18-55mm lens that came with the camera?

Put the camera setting on AV mode. Can you change it then?

Edit#2:

I see, that 0 makes a difference.

If the aperture is reading 0 then the camera is not detecting that there is a lens attached.

Turn the camera off and make sure your lens is screwed on all the way.
If it is then take the lens off. Make sure the contacts are clean and there is no debris on the metal parts. Put it back on and start it back up.

If it still reads 0 then you need to contact Canon for a possible repair. It may be the lens or the camera. If you have another lens try it to determine if the camera can detect that lens.

(I thought you meant your aperture was stuck at 5.6)

edit #3

NP glad to help and glad it’s working.

rob answers:

What card do you have now.

Just format the card and look at the number of photos available that show up on your LCD. Then do the math. If you have a 2 gb card that holds 300 shots, then a 8 gb card will hold four times that. Simple math

rob answers:

Go to the canon website and compare them yourself.

rob answers:

Canon EOS Rebel T3i (EOS 600D)

http://dslr.bz/canon-eos-rebel-t3i/

The EOS Rebel T3i has an 18.0 Megapixel CMOS (Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor) sensor that captures images with exceptional clarity and tonal range and offers more than enough resolution for big enlargements or crops. This first-class sensor features many of the same new technologies as used by professional Canon camera s to maximize each pixel’s light-gathering efficiency. Its APS-C size sensor creates an effective 1.6x field of view (compared to 35mm format).

rob answers:

Whenever I have a question/problem such as yours, I read the user’s guide
(aka “the manual”).
It is amazing just how much I always learn from that.

If that doesn’t help (or if I’m interested in a product I don’t own), I check the manufacturer’s website.
They have descriptions and specs for their gadgets, often have user forums, and the decent manufacturers all let you download the manuals in electronic form (so losing the book is no longer a problem).

99% of the time that does the trick.

rob answers:

Why don’t you simply use them for a while and see if you’re happy with them? No point spending money before you know you need to.

rob answers:

If they are the older FD series (manual focus) then you will need an adapter like http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=fd+to+eos&N=0&InitialSearch=yes

There are different makers of the adapter, research them carefully. Some lose the ability to do an “infinity” focus, others will lose a stop or two of light, and others will use a cheap optic which can result in blurry photos.

rob answers:

Yes the EF Lenses actually does fit.

P.S. I swap lenses between all three of my camera s which I have two canon Digital and one Canon 35mm and never had a problem going back and forth.

rob answers:

Yes, that camera comes with an EF lens unless you order it specifically without a lens at all. EF is the type of mount lock, so it will work with all of that type.

rob answers:

The short answer is ‘No.’ There are some ways around this in some cases but, each manufacturer has a proprietary lens mount and lenses for one brand are generally not compatible with the cameras of another. It is a common question for people new to SLR and DSLR cameras so don’t feel bad for asking.

Part of the confusion here comes from the fact that there are third-party lenses made by Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina that are available for each of the major lens mounts (i.e. Nikon F, Canon EF, Sony/Minolta A, etc). You cannot buy a Sigma with a Canon EF lens mount and expect it to work on a Nikon body. You’d have to buy a seperate copy of that lens with a dedicated lens mount specific to Nikon.

Both Canon and Nikon make top notch lenses. There is little reason to use Nikon lenses on Canon bodies or vice versa. That said, Novoflex does make converters that allow the use of Nikon lenses on Canon bodies with significantly compromised functionality.

rob answers:

Just as your manual explains….you can use any of the EF or EF-S lenses on that camera. BUT, you can only use the EF series on the full frame and APS-H sensor cameras such as the EOS film cameras, the 1D series, and the 5D cameras (an EF-S lens on one of those cameras will damage the cameras mirror and/or lens).

rob answers:

You may be having problems with your white balance too.

If your auto mode includes white balance, that too could be a problem too.

Get out of “auto”. You can use the aperture and shutter speed priority and all the settings you are using in manual will still apply

rob answers:

For a boat on the ocean or wildlife, you want to be in the 300mm or greater range. Check into the canon 70-300 “IS” lens. It’s over $500, but it’s a decent lens for your purposes.

Http://www.the-digital-picture.com/canon-Lenses/

(See “Recommendations” on this page)

Check this out, too: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/find/newsLetter/Beyond-Kit-Lens.jsp

rob answers:

30 seconds + bulb … Using a locking remote shutter release, you can take exposures as long as you like

rob answers:

For flash, get the EX 430. For lenses get a prime and one zoom. The 50mm 1.8 EF is cheap but one of the best values. As for zoom, it depends on if you want telephoto or just standard zoom. Most people prefer an all in one zoom like 28-200m so they don’t have to interchange lens as often, and also have to buy lots of lens.

rob answers:

Press Menu > Settings 2 > Scroll down. Your Firmware version should be shown on there.

rob answers:

You mean you want one side of the face lit and the other side of the face darker? And you want to shoot in natural light? Then early in the morning or late in the evening when the sun is just above the horizon, place your model so that the sun falls on one side of their face and the other side will naturally be darker. The light is also golden and beautiful at these times of day and very flattering.

To really get the most out of your camera, you need to learn to shoot a portrait without using the auto modes. Using aperture priority, select an ISO of 100 (or slower if available), an aperture of about f/8 and the camera will set the shutter speed for you. If you only have the 18-55mm kit lens, then shoot at about 50-55mm and move closer or back to frame your subject. To get a blurred background, don’t place your subject too close to the background.

rob answers:

You’re really good! I love your use of shadows on the black and white ones. Keep it up and don’t get discouraged is my only bit of advice.

rob answers:

Get a pelican case that’s dust & water proof and practically indestructible.

rob answers:

Nice work, good composition. The most abundant problem I saw is with the cropping of body parts. You need to be careful where you cut off (amputate) arms, legs, hands/feet/paws and even the torso of all animals. The lighting can also create the same amputee effect as with image 0119. You may want to lighten up a little on the post processing too. Overall, I think you are on the right track and learning a variety of skills.

rob answers:

This camera has excellent reviews. When an aspiring photographer finds that her images are not the expected quality, the first impulse is to think that there’s something wrong with the camera. They may know other people who have the same model and they get excellent results. In 99.9% of the cases, there is nothing wrong with the camera. The true limiting factor is the skill set of the photographer. An accomplished photographer can get a better shot from a cell phone camera than an inexperienced one with a Hasselblad.

If you are unhappy with your photos, it is probably due to one or more of the following: focus issues, motion blur, exposure issues, composition.

For proper focus, you need to take control of what your camera is focusing on. You may have to select only one focus point. You need to have a proper aperture set so that your depth of field is appropriate to the subject, meaning that everything you want in focus is. If your subject is moving, then you need to set AI Servo. If it’s not moving, then AI Servo will mess up your pictures.

For motion blur, you need a fast enough shutter speed. Motion blur can come from your subject and also from you holding the camera. A tripod is a way of dealing with the latter. Most macro photographers use a tripod because they need a large depth of field, which means that their shutter speeds are often low.

With respect to exposure issues, modern cameras are very good at getting average exposure of average subjects. Add a little too much dark or too much light and they get confused. The typical example is a snowscape that comes out gray.

For all of the above: aperture, shutter speed and exposure, your camera on auto will give you pretty good results in average circumstances. For better shots in un-average settings, you need to take control by switching to Av, Tv, or manual mode.

As for the last factor, composition, entire libraries of books have been written on this subject. Get one of them. Learn the so-called rules so that you can apply them appropriately and know when violating them will give you the better shot. Beginners make two basic mistakes: they don’t fill the frame with their subject and they usually put it dead center. Start there.

Good photography is a never-ending learning process. If you know any photographers, ask them to critique your best shots. Put on your armour for this. Most of the time, if somebody asks me what I think of a shot, I give them an encouraging comment. If they care enough about their photography to pursue the point and ask me for a technical critique, then they open the floodgates. It’s not always pretty.

rob answers:

Gee, I hope so.

Actually any of the current and even old DSLR’s can produce images of high enough quality to use in magazines.

Ten years ago, magazines were publishing images shot with Kodak DSLR’s with 2 mp sensors using Nikon lenses.

If you cannot make at least a 20 x 30 inch print from a XSi, your photo skills are just not up to the task, the camera certainly is.

rob answers:

Yes but with a whole lot of restrictions.

Http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/ canon _fd_eos_adapters.html

If you don’t already have a bunch of FD lenses, just buy some good used EF or EF-S lenses

rob answers:

Unless you want to break the bank you don’t need another lens to shoot sports. The 55-250 should do fine.

Indoor sports will be tough with most lenses. For this you will need a large aperture lens and high ISO. Large aperture zoom lenses are very expensive. Large aperture prime lenses will be cheaper but there is no zoom. For my sons basketball games I often use a 50mm F1.4. It is great in low light. He is 6 so the gym is small and poorly lit. A large high school or college gym will require much larger more expensive lenses. Especially if your not on the sidelines.

rob answers:

EF and EFS. Also, Sigma make the best aftermarket lenses. Next is Tamron. Don’t buy quantaray (Ritz/Wolf camera crap)

rob answers:

In the wireless world, cheap is another way of saying “less reliable”. These are not bad, but you need to put up with some occassional misfires on the flash.

Try to look at http://www.gadgetinfinity.com

They have a decent wireless setup that will not cost an arm and a leg. You will need a bracket that connecte the light stand to the receiver / flash. Here is one on eBay. It is all plastic and not too rugged – I think there are better on eBay but don’t see them right now.

Http://cgi.ebay.com/Flash-Shoe-Umbrella-Holder-Swivel-Light-Stand-Bracket-B_W0QQitemZ250448377217QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCamera_Flash_Accessories?hash=item3a4fe2f581&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

To find more info on off camera flash, wireless and a whole new world of lighting, check out http://www.strobist.com

Finally, with this type of wireless setup, you need to set the power output on your flash manually (I’m hoping you mean 430EX II – which has manual power settings – I’m not familiar with a 450ex ). It is no longer a dedicated flash in this setup, and you will need to learn how to use your camera in M mode – manual exposure mode (not P, green box, Portrait, Av etc – only M).

rob answers:

It sounds like you need to upgrade your computer (or at least update your video and sound drivers).

If your computer can’t run games such as BlackOps or GTA4 smoothly, it will have difficulties with videos. I run a 64 bit OS, quad-core CPU, 8Gb of RAM, a 9800GTX+ video card, and a fast hard drive and don’t have editing issues.

rob answers:

Look at the EF-S 18-200 mm. I will give you a range from landscape to the ability to shoot sports, action and some wildlife

rob answers:

I bought the Canon T2i recently and have been shooting some test footage here and there and trying to nail down a good work flow. The T2i uses the H.264 codec, which many NLE’s don’t edit natively (although I believe Premiere Pro CS5 does). I’m using Premiere Pro CS4 and I have to transcode the footage from the T2i so I can edit natively.

I’ve been impressed with the quality of the footage, but like some of the others in this thread, you do have to consider certain limitations. There are no manual audio controls on the T2i. In fact, there is no headphone jack, so you can’t monitor incoming audio. You’re best bet is to record audio to an external unit and sync it with your video. Also, getting accurate focus marks will be a bit of a challenge. It’s difficult to pull focus accurately without some kind of additional follow focus system.

Also, if you really want that shallow depth of field look, you will want to keep your f-stop low. However, that means that in bright light, you will need some ND filters for your lens to knock down the amount of light entering the camera. Otherwise, you will have to crank up your shutter speed and that will give your footage a real strobing effect.

Http://twitter.com/redfoxmedia_inc

rob answers:

Canon EOS 7D better with Advanced HD movie mode with manual exposure control and selectable frame rates

rob answers:

Which lens you are using has absolutely nothing to do with anything. It’s your memory card thats the problem. Did you remember to Format it before you used it the very first time? If not, go format it in the camera Menu (making sure you first transfer any wanted files to your computer because formatting deletes all files). See if that makes a difference.

If you still have problems, then you will definitely need a faster memory card. When recording Full HD movies, a Class 10 SDHC card is best. Just make sure you format it before you use it the first time. Format it again after every upload (and backup) to your computer.

rob answers:

Have a look in your Instruction Manual…page 75, ‘Bulb Exposures’.

rob answers:

The canon EOS Rebel XS is the “little brother” of the Canon EOS Rebel XSi which means they are both almost the same camera , but the XSi has more to offer than the XS. Perhaps consider basing your buying decision on how serious you will be taking up digital SLR photography. If you firmly believe that you will take digital SLR photography very seriously in the long run and want a solid entry-level digital SLR camera , then the Canon XSi may be a better choice for you.

Http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012YA85A?ie=UTF8&tag=computer0bd-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0012YA85A

If price is your main concern and you are only looking for Canon’s bottom entry-level digital SLR model, then the current price of the Canon XS kit is quite worthy of a purchase consideration.

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Here are the differences between the XS and the XSi:
– The XSi has more megapixels at 12.2MP while the XS is 10.1MP.
– For JPEG, the XSi can continuously shoot at 3.5 fps while the XS can do 3.0 fps. But for RAW, the XSi is much better at 3.5 fps while the XS can only do 1.5 fps.
– The LCD monitor of the XSi measures 3.0 inches while the XS has a smaller screen at 2.5 inches.
– The XSi has a 9-point AF system while the XS has only a 7-point.
– The XSi has Spot metering while the XS does not. Both have Evaluative, Partial, and Center-weighted metering, however.
– The XSi RAW is 14-bit while the XS RAW is 12-bit.
– XSi has Highlight Tone Priority while XS does not.
– The viewfinder of the XSi provides 0.87x magnification while the XS provides 0.81x.
– The XSi can utilize the RC-1 or the RC-5 wireless remote shutter release, but the XS is not compatible with either so you won’t be able to use a wireless remote release.
– You cannot buy the XS without the kit lens

rob answers:

Exactly what do you mean? Are you referring the placement of the motor?

‘Cause Canon do built the motor into each lens so that it will have the optimum performance regardless the design.

On the contrary, Nikon built the motor into the camera body. As a result, the built-in motor might be a bit under power for some lens (i.e. Large fast Zoom lens or larger telephoto lens). In some cases, a separate motor will need to install into the lens in order to move the lens elements for focusing.

Either way, both models do have multiple modes of AF. Of cause, if you use any FD lens for Canon or any lens manufactured prior mid-80s for Nikon, you will lose the AF function anyway.

rob answers:

50mm f/1.8

rob answers:

You can check at your local library or book store and browse at some before you borrow or buy one. There are numerous web sites that offer tips on photography. I am fond of the following link. It deals with night photography. I actually practiced and took pictures using the suggestions offered and they turned out great. I have a Canon XS and experiment alot with the settings while taking pictures. After taking a picture that I viewed in the LCD and liked, I would save the settings. Experimentation is part of the fun of photography.

Http://www.slrphotographyguide.com/camera/settings/night-slr-settings.shtml

rob answers:

$1279,- http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12132-USA/canon_2536A004_TS_E_45mm_f_2_8_Normal.html

rob answers:

Extra lenses always the best choice

rob answers:

Http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup

NOTE: All the EF and EF-S lenses will work on your T2i/550D

EF-S lenses cannot be used on full frame Canon’s, 1D and 5D series cameras

rob answers:

If you’re looking for a good, inexpensive lens, get the Canon 50mm f/1.8. This lens is a prime lens (meaning it has a fixed focal point and can’t zoom) and takes excellent pictures. This lens will give you that very sharp picture with the extremely blurry background (perfect for portrait pictures) and can also shoot in low light conditions (f/1.8 is much better than the kit lens which is f/4.5). The best part is, this lens only costs around $100. This lens is small, and compact so it’s great for when you want to travel light.
An example picture of the amazing sharpness of this lens is:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2249/1620065145_eafc9cb018.jpg

Notice how blurred the background is and how clear and shop the flower is. Good luck!

rob answers:

You can consider Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens for Canon EOS SLR Cameras

70-300mm telephoto zoom lens with f/4-5.6 maximum aperture for Canon EOS SLR cameras
3-stop Image Stabilizer for reducing camera shake; ring-type ultra-sonic monitor (USM)
Electro-magnetic diaphragm (EMD) helps create attractive background at large apertures
Super Spectra lens coating and lens element shaping suppresses flare and ghosting
Measures 3 inches in diameter and 5.6 inches long; weighs 22.2 ounces; 1-year warranty